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Moose last won the day on July 3 2019

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  1. Thanks for the info, all useful. the hex bar I got from eBay. Nothing special, just did a search. Just looked now and the dealer is still selling a variety of hex Bar in free machining mild steel, 300mm Long and variety of AF sizes. I used 10mm just because it was robust enough and would fit the ratchet I was using. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300mm-Hex-Bright-Steel-Bar-10mm-AF-hexagonal-stock-sale-free-machining/283840015153?hash=item42162eeb31:g:QZwAAOSwTAZdD2rC
  2. Ahh... I think you are right, looking at some google pics and they do look the same.
  3. Chime Train. As already mentioned, the barrel was not present. A replacement should be on its way to me. It's a four note chime. Powering the train by hand shows encouraging results. It does chime on the quarters with the correct number of notes per quarter. But it's a little bit like that Morecambe and Wise Sketch with Andre 'Preview' in that: "It is playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order." For clarity, I have numbered the notes in descending order of note (i.e. highest note first) 1,2,3,4. The strike sounds 3 and 4 together. I understand that the us
  4. In Reply to OH's post above... Thanks for the tips, always appreciated. Here are my observations do far... Time Train. I wound the clock whilst still assembled and found it would not keep running. I did my (now usual) trick of listening to the sound of the beat and, finding it was well off, tilted up one side of the case to see if I could get a good beat. I could, with a tilt of about 1/4 inch, so well out! But after that determined that the clock was happy to keep running over at least a 24 hour period. So - it seems that once properly cleaned, re-aligned and re-bushed (where and if
  5. Thanks for the offer WW. I missed your kind offer and started looking on eBay and managed to find one with the correct dimensions for about £7.50, which was reasonable as long as it is useable... more on that when it arrives. I may yet take up your offer There is a serial number on the back plate and a made in England stamp, but no makers mark. Looking at it, it shouts Enfield at me, as many of the wheels on the time and strike trains look exactly the same to their counterparts on a marked Enfield movement I have. I have the movement out and mounted on a block to facilitate fault fi
  6. First obstacle to overcome... There is no spring barrel for the Westminster chime train... Well, I did say it was a project clock! Am I correct in thinking that this barrel is not the same as the other two barrels, in that its effectively back-to front (with regards to where the teeth are)? I am also guessing that it is not possible to re-purpose a spare main-spring or chime-spring barrel, because you require a different barrel/winding arbor?
  7. Book suggestions noted, thanks! The winder is providing good service. The only change I made to the Mk 2 version, was to add a clamping device, so I can clamp it to a workbench when using it. I have added a small engineering lathe to my tool “arsenal” now, so I have been thinking that I might beef up the main shaft (currently just a hex bar), and turn something more custom made. But otherwise nothing planned. hope all is well with you. George
  8. I have got the hang of Enfield hour strike clocks now and am fairly confident with setting the strikes, bushing and pivot polishing. So I thought it was time to have a look at Westminster Chime, given that the “powers that be” have completely scuppered any chances of my meeting all of our family this Xmas, so I need to fill my free time. I obtained this from a seller as a project clock, and to learn on. If I can get it going then fine, if I can’t, I hope to learn from the experience. First thoughts are - it is in a mahoosive case, far bigger and the movement warrants, and almost certainly
  9. Still here... Apologies to “Fatcapp” for missing his earlier post. I did not have to rewire my motor, so did not take it apart. To Alan, ask away... but pretty much what I did is recorded here. G.
  10. Under magnification, I can see that the catch on the arbor is Badly worn, and slips out of the notch on the spring when under tension. So I’ll get that replaced as well. Thanks for the tips.
  11. Hi All. Can anyone confirm if the mainspring on this movement is wound in the barrel left or right handed please? I am a hobbyist repairer and I know it come out left-handed, but the replacement springs are all set for a right handed insertion. I just want to confirm that I need to re-insert the spring with coloured side down (i.e. left handed not right). Many Thanks.
  12. Not sure mine is the same as either of the ones I have. The first one I have (with the Bakelite case, is soldered to the bezel ring and the bezel ring is riveted (nailed) to the case. My oak cased one also looks a bit different to yours, but here it is anyway as there may be some similarities...
  13. UPDATE (Final) After a couple of trial uses, everything works. But as we are in lockdown and I have much time on my hands (and I was already thinking about a Mark 2 version), I wanted to make a few modifications. So - This is not exactly a Mark 2 but a Mark 1.1 CHANGES: Changed the shaft to hex bar. Changed the chuck to smaller version to allow working with smaller barrel springs and also to facilitate connection to hex bar shaft. Make the ratchet spanner more integral to the design and lock securely in place. I also provided an additional safety bar, which can be extended to hold th
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