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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/01/19 in all areas

  1. So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock. Here are are the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    3 points
  2. Sunny day so this one got chosen. Old pic
    3 points
  3. Hi Nucejoe , of course Citizens are allowed . Nice one you have there ........
    2 points
  4. I snipped out a section of your balance wheel hairspring image. It appears to be somebody has re- pinned your hairspring? Re-pinning the hairspring where they have versus the end where it probably should have been will make your watch go a lot faster.
    2 points
  5. The HS coils may be sticking intermittently, this typically results in a wavering graph. There may be some issue with the power train, dirt or damage, which can also show a wavering result, or the oscillator may be so far out of beat, that it has some secondary component to its oscillation. If you check Mark's videos, they may help.
    2 points
  6. if it is running fast and has a beat error then the watch will need be adjusted not regulated. regulating (moving regulator stud to fast or slow) will not correct beat error. beat error occurs when the balance wheel will rotate lets say 360 degrees in one direction, then 270 degrees in the opposite direction. Normal osculation should be about 270 degrees in both directions. 1. Observe the HS and BW under a strong eye loop. Is the the BW moving in fast short strokes (usual cause is magnetism), or is it moving wildly fast in long strokes. best way to see this is if you have a smart phone with slow motion feature record the BW then watch it in slow motion and you can get an idea of the degree in rotation and get an idea which direction is off. also under magnification watch the HS coils expand and contract, are any of the coils sticking, is the HS riding up or not laying completely flat. 2. Demagnetize the movement and balance assembly separately. remove pallet and cock and reinstall balance asbly. make sure the roller jewel rests in the middle of of the banking pins. if it does not then there is your "beat error" problem. you will have to adjust the HS collet on the BW untill that roller jewel is dead center in the banking pins. there is a way to do this with spring attached but that requires experience so HS will have to come off. remove the stud from the cock and observe how the HS sits on the BW, make sure there are no warped or sticking coils. if all is good then make your adjustment and reattach stud. time the watch again and see if there is any issues. 3. If there are still timing issues then a full service is in order. pivots will need to be checked for deformities and/or wear. picot jewels will need to be stripped and cleaned of old oil and debris, etc. End/side shakes of the BW should also checked before service begins. A TIMING issue is a sure sign that a SERVICE is in order, so I will recommend a full service either way for this watch regardless of what the fault is. But I always like to do some fault finding first (things mention above) then proceed with the service, you will also be doing other quality control inspections during the duration of the service. i.e checking pivots, pivot jewels, mainspring, pinions and teeth, end/ side shakes of train, etc. demagnetize the the movement and
    2 points
  7. Thanks for all the replies! Have tried to demag the movement (hairspring and movement separately). The hs looks good, canĀ“t see it touch anything. This movement has not been cleand by me, so will try to do a full service and see what happens. Think i have to adjust the watch in beat as well, so will do a full service, adjust and cross my fingers. Thanks to all of you!
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. I just looked at your latest photos. The pivots look OK to me. I agree with John above. That is an odd place to pin the hairspring. Have you tried it pinned at the end?
    1 point
  10. 10 acres lots a thing of the past up by me unless you are looking at commercial property. And if not commercial those sized spaces are getting bought up and turned in "55 and older" sites. and what is a red convertible without a cute blonde?
    1 point
  11. I would expect to get oil/grease with enough shelf life to make it usable, if buying new, for example I have 9415 I bought last year that expires in 2022, some Fixodrop I just bought that is good til 2021. The 9415 will almost certainly be barely half used by 2022. Prior to the application of expiration dates I don't think anyone gave it much thought. I know a very fastidious pro who had a policy of changing the oil in his cups once a week at least, and replacing oil bottles that had been opened once a year. Makes sense in that the oil cups are quite exposed, and an opened bottle that has been dipped into dozens of times will almost certainly be somewhat contaminated regardless of how careful one is.All that said, I truly believe that sealed lubricant is good indefinitely, and you have nothing to worry about. There are many fans of the old Elgin m56b oil, which hasn't been produced in 40-50 years.
    1 point
  12. How about this, are citizens welcomed? I like the lightweigth titanium case.
    1 point
  13. Hello. I think the diameter of the movement was around 27mm. I will give you exact measurement when I get home!
    1 point
  14. Nice work and good example of how a faceplate can save the day! I do faceplate work all the the time much to the perplexment and eventually enlightenment of apprentices around here.
    1 point
  15. Thanks. Here's a pic that better shows the actual watch. No flash used. Not as yellow as in previous pic.
    1 point
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