Leaderboard

Remove the movement, observe the HS from the side, as balance wheel oscillates so you can see the fault, which can be any of above said. Or, you may could tilt the movement inside the case, balance side outward. So you can observe the HS. Check regulator pin, only one HS strand should be held by it.

There were tools made for this, and barrel arbors too (in many old watches the hook was on a female threaded ring that screwed to the integral arbor/ratchet). Somewhere in a drawer I have some. But I've always used blunt nickel tweezers. That nut is usually not all that tight. There are small round jawed jewelers pliers that can fit with a little modification of the tip too.

Success! I sharpened my smallest screwdriver and was able to pry it out as you recommended. Thanks for the plastic bag reminder. There's a least a dozen lost parts living in my workshop.

No need for special tool, yet check this ,https://www.amazon.com/AMPM24-Spring-Remover-Springbar-Adjuster/dp/B00BBSYB1E Other uses as well. No need to buy one, just make yourself one out of a bad screw driver. Regards joe.

The bezel doesn't need to be removed to replace the crystal. You will however have to remove the movement since the glass will need to be pushed from inside the case to remove it. And ideally with a suitable crystal press tool. Since pictures can speak a thousand words I've done a quick search on YouTube for you and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0Zqit4r0wM seems as good a video as any. If you're new at this it might be worth watching the whole video but at approximately minute 8 to 9 is the action shot relating to what you need to do. Hope this helps.

You would also need this one for the train works Parts catalog - Technical guide - 7005A.pdf

If the watch is new to your friend he needs to be aware that these Seikos need to be shaken quite a bit to build some power. That is the main disadvantage of not being able to be hand-wound. If the watch has been working well before then the above posts covers the main problem areas. Cheers! Anilv

Hi, Turn off all complications. Wear the watch for a day, bench test for power reserve, make a note of how long it runs. If low power reserve, try winding manually through ratchet wheel, listen close for the sound of sudden power discharge.make a note of how long it ran. If you gain access to the barrel, suppy power by pushing the barrel ( by hand or a polymer stick) reverse direction to observe how freely the power train responds. If it came down to movement strip down. In addition to diagrams/datasheet take a snap shot at each stage of strip down, actual pictures come of use for diagnostic help. Mark ratchet wheel with majic marker, manual wind through rotor, observe winder mech, the fault may be in selfwinder mech and easily found. Post the results for discussion. Good luck

I'd try demagnetising first. Damping the spring (e.g. with Rodico or inside a poly bag) stops it vibrating in harmony with the A/C field. This is something I just learned on a different thread.

As an alternative, look here: blog.esslinger.com/watch-band-pin-illustrations/ Scroll down the page to see if anything useful pops out at you.

These Chinese units are horrible (I use one). The flux level is too high because they are designed to work on 120V too. Perhaps would benefit from modding in that respect. Also, the cable in no way meets EU safety standards. It's rubberised instead of plastic, and the strands are made from monkey metal instead of copper.

Looks complete. You will need a motor to run it. Check the lathe bed and make sure it is smooth with no marks in it. Ask what type of work has been undertaken. how old is it? Make sure the collets are in good shape and not strained, out of shape collets are no good. A fair price I would say.

I’m probably going to get crucified on here for saying this. I could never get on with watch mainspring winders. I found them awkward to use due to me mainly being left handed.

I eventually bought some second hand winders. The vast majority of watches I repair are 11 - 13", which means the barrels are all similar in size, so I don't really need that many. I think hand winding is ok if you are careful; you can prove you are doing it well by removing and reinspecting the spring for deformation.

All that research and the drill bits did it! Joe

Managed to do it with a couple of 0.7mm drill bits thanks for the help

Hi stuart about 2.5mm to the centre of the holes, I agree with you, making something may be the answer thank you for your answer most appreciated dan

What is the spacing of the holes Dan? I don't know where you'll find the "right" tool, but there are a number of options... Searching for TH3 security screwdriver will get you 3.35mm between the outer edges of the holes. TH4 is 4.45 You could try a pair of mini circlip pliers, or a pair of dividers. You could make your own - take a sort strip of steel, bend over one end and file a slot then round the edges to make 2 pins. Or if you wanted to take the crude approach, 2 tapered clock pins cut to fit snugly in each hole and a pair of pliers.

Here is a shot of the screw

I've never seen screw heads with anything other than slotted screws in Swiss watch movements, although Philips head screws are used in watchcases and Seiko. Maybe this will help? J