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Here's a few pictures of my home made watch cleaning machine. It uses a bathroom vent fan motor, ceiling fan speed control, and a digital timer. I've since added a 12v cooling fan above the motor as running an induction motor at lower speeds (voltage) increases the heat produced by the coil. I turned a 10mm shaft extension to mount the L&R cleaning basket, and the "lid" has a groove that has high temp RTV silicone in it to create the seal. The square post indexes the basket and lid to each jar, and I'm using old school (read: DANGEROUS!) solutions, but they are quite effective. I raise the head after each cycle and spin off the extra solution before going to the next one.

If we were to comment here on just 1% of what comes out everyday in high-end horology this forum would soon become the copy of so many drool-inducing luxury blogs.. But some achievements can't be ignored... Movement mechanical self-winding, extra-thin (3 mm), Cal. 581. 16 lignes. 33 jewels. Numbered and signed Breguet. 80-hour power reserve. Barrel mounted on roller bearings. Inverted lateral lever escapement with silicon horns. Frequency 4 Hz. Silicon balance spring. Tourbillon with titanium carriage. Small seconds on the tourbillon axis. Breguet... hmmm I think I've heard this name already.

When I say hardened I refer to fully hardened (tempered). like a high speed drill bit or similar. A staking punch is another good example of hardened tempered steel that a carbide graver wont touch (experience lol)....If it is truly "blue" steel, and has not been tempered, either in manufacture or working, then yes, a carbide graver will cut it, all else being correct (shape, sharpness, cutting angle, speed, etc). I recently read here that most prefer a slower turning speed for steel cutting, and this makes sense, as you would not be introducing unwanted heat from friction, allowing the cutting tool to do its job. Shallow cuts, slowly, and I wouldn't expect long curls of swarf like you see when turning softer metals like brass or aluminum. It's really all about practice and trial and error, every machinist will have his own preferred method to do the same task. Another afterthought, cutting oil is probably a good idea as well, as it reduces the friction (heat) and enhances the cutting action of the tool. Just my thoughts.......

Time ago I was whining because after an update some stuff didn't worked right away. Mark pointed out that the way forward is the only way, heck he was right. Especially from a mod's point of view everything works fast and good. Support for mobile devices is excellent, making that funky contraption of Tapatalk useless. With time one notices certain slick features like dynamic image resize and heaven knows how many more. So beside our top notch content, we've given the dust to all the big name watch forums in terms of member experience too. Thank you Invision for a great product and thank you Mark for spending your own time and money to maintain it.

I've tried that too but mine won't get darker than this.

It really is down to what suits you, but x 13 certainly sounds too close for general work. I find that 2 1/2 (x4) works great for me for general work. i use 10x and 16x for closer work, and I have a super strong 25x for close inspection of pivots etc.. for any more magnification you would need a microscope. As already mentioned quality of the lens is very important. I started out with the cheap chinese stuff, and it made a massive difference when I upgraded to Asco.

With a large delay, welcome here. Lovely piece. Seems like -as your name suggests- that you have European roots or preferences even if living in the land of the Elgins, Waltham's, and (as I've recently learned) Illinois. I took the liberty of re-posting your great picture with a more conventional orientation. I used to hang out in S.C during the weekends. Best memories are about a bikers wooden patio bar, and a slow safe riding lecture from a enraged cop on the hills.

Interesting thread this is. I love (well hate) these mysteries in watch repair. Love them because they are challenging, hate them if it's a watch I want to wear (it can take forever to find those uncommon gremlins). My guess is that the watch is losing all of it's amplitude dial up. The result is the balance barely moves, but there is enough potential energy in the gear train to release the escape wheel when the impulse jewel touches the pallet. I would check the pivots and jewels for the pallet and escape wheel, paying particular attention to top pivots and jewels.

One other thought, the work should not extend past the collet any more than is necessary to do the work. If it's a longer piece, say for a stem or something, the free end should be supported by a center (male or female) held in the tail stock. The longer the piece, the more deflection, and you won't be able to put enough pressure on to make the cut without distorting the piece, but it would still get hot, and work harden the piece, etc etc.....

It's all about cutting angle, shape and sharpness of the tool, and speed. If it's truly blue steel and has not been hardened carbide should cut it. If you're heating the piece while "attempting" to take a cut you could be work-hardening the steel and defeating your purpose. There is tons of information about cutting steel, both on full size lathes and ours, but the theory is the same. If the steel has been tempered (hardened), you won't cut it, period. Tempered steel can be ground but not cut, it has to be annealed fully...sounds like you got it almost hot enough to anneal but only the surface, not all the way through the part. After cutting you re-temper to hardness, again there are tons of videos and such explaining that process, and each has a lot to do with the users own preferences.....in a nutshell, heat thoroughly, let cool on its own, anneal.......heat thoroughly, quench, hardened......and the type of steel also has it's own properties, so it's a lot of trial and error. A simple test is to take a file and lightly drag it across the work piece. If it marks it, it's probably not hardened, but if it takes excessive pressure to leave a mark, the steel is tempered and would have to be annealed before working. Oh, and HSS gravers WILL cut soft steel (annealed), but you will have to sharpen much more often....

Totally agree, but as I said already the problem could be in the bearing, as the rotor appears to be perfect in picture. Blindly get another then it if doesn't work is time and money spent, frustration gained.

Hello! I've been a longtime member on WUS and SCWF - been tinkering with Seikos for a while. With snow on the ground outside, it seems a good time to find more indoor hobbies - learning to fully service a 7s26 movement seems like a good option. Looking forward to learning more from all here on WRT.

Hi, I've Been watching Mark's videos for a while and intend taking his course. I play around with my collection and have done the odd repair, but looking forward to learning more. I've been a watch fan all my life, but in the last 10 years have become a serious collector. I live in Thailand and have my collection with me, other than some I bought online in the past year that are in NZ - I'll be collecting them when i go for a vacation in March. Current collection consists of: Omega Seamaster PO 600 Co-Axialo Omega Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Sinn U1 Sinn 867 TESTAF UTC Visconti Abysys 1000M Seiko Monster SDKX779 Seiko 6309-729A (bought new in 1982 and will never part with it, been through 3 marriages, 3 kids, 3 careers, 2 companies, 3 car crashes, multiple motorbike track "offs", has only had the hands replaced twice, 3 crystals, 2 winders, 4 bezels inserts, 1 face, untold bracelets/straps, one mainspring, and one new case, and once spent a week at the bottom of a shallow lake) Seiko 6159-7001 300M First professional diver (awaiting servicing and a spruce up) Seiko 6217-8001 (62Mas) 150M (awaiting an overhaul, but in good condition) Seiko SKX007 as a daily beater - virtually unbreakable Croton Nivada Grenchen Chronograph (unfortunately only a Landeron 248 mov't) Glycine Airman SST-12 GMT - great for travelling with 3 timezones A pretty eclectic collection, but I've always focused towards the divers, and Seiko in particular. I've owned a few Rolex's but call me crazy, I always flip them as I just can't fall in love with them like I can with Omega, Seiko, and even Sinn. Looking forward to becoming more proficient in doing my own servicing after taking Mark's course. Cheers

Making sacrifices to the Watchmaker Gods is not unusual for beginners. They will reward the effort with years of satisfaction.

Greetings! Good luck in your watch repairing journey.

The samurai and I got to see the sun for a few moments today.

That is bloody brilliant!

These things are pressed in by machine on the assembly line. Yours has come apart, just bad luck apart.

I find this quite amazing!!! Very clever too! You win the internet for today!

Here's my lathe setup, I made the box and drawer, the motor is just a sewing machine motor with pedal, but it's adjustable for tension on a dovetail mount. It's a Boley clone but in decent shape, and I have a Marshall cross slide and a decent amount of collets and gravers.

nice setup, good workmanship. vin

Hey Adam, thanks! I've only been once to Great Britain, London to be precise and it was a long time ago. I really enjoyed it... Should be doing that again soon Maybe I prepare my Multivan, pack my family and off we go!

Got a Tipover Tool Rest on line with no bolt. Went to Ottawa Fasteners and purchased a plastic grip nut and two big metal washers and a brass bolt with a flat screw top. Then i flattened out the round on two sides to make it fit into the tool rest base groove. Sanded it with 1200 grit for smooth action in the groove and TaDa. It works well. My Peerless Lathe now has a Tip Over Tool Rest which is great for getting it quickly out of the way for measurements. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Remember what I said about swapping the entire movement?

Hexane, another practical cleaning fluid I've got it at the pharmacy (in my country they sell this kind of stuff for laboratory use). It's a highly refined solvent, in my case Isohexane, CAS No. 601-007-07-7. In summary, it's still close to spark engine fuel and an excellent stain remover. Leaves no residue whatsoever, and no rinse is necessary, I've used on a watch movement (all parts), without any funky vintage cleaning machine, no warming, no ultrasonic, just a gentle hand shaking, and rubber blower drying. Not expensive per se, it comes in small bottles. Very volatile, must be kept closed all the time. Judging by the debris left in the container, it cleans very well.

This is the watch upto now with a cheap Chinese training movement fit to see what it looks like.

Wasn't aware that the videos will be posted as downloadable links and not stream able, and since I can't edit the post, I uploaded them to Youtube. Also, another point I missed mentioning is that, even though not visible clearly here, is that I have put a small red arrow on the seconds hand / prop, whcih indicated the second.

Hi all, I don't like Marblack etc..it's leaves a horrible carbon layer on the slate if put on to thickly, which does polish off when waxed..M&P used to make a slate blacking the best ever oil based. .As usual they stopped making it..Only way really is to rub down with wet and dry paper finishing off with the finest. As there is nothing else suitable, the Marblack should be used sparingly and rubbed off..Then as mentioned good old Black Boot Polish Kiwi, not the pound shop rubbish. build it up using the makeup remover (dry small round wipes) nicked from her indoors..5 or 6 thin coats is usually enough, let it dry and soak in for a good few hours next day ok, and then using the wipes slightly damp with a small bit of polish on shine it up in circular motions, it will come up a treat.. Here is one I did earlier.. if links are allowed.. Len

Great thank you for the welcome. Attached is the watch I am using today. Jean Marcel ETA 6498.

Just buy an omega seamaster bruv, can't beat it for vintage. Rest are crap