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The winding and and sliding pinions are definitely steel on these (and every other watch I've seen). But the overall system of levers in the 2824 is delicate- if one thing gets just a little bit tweeked, it can be totally invisible what's wrong but it just won't go into setting position correctly. Replace parts with visually identical new ones and it works great. If I get another one with this issue I'll put the parts on the profile projector and see exactly what's up.

When drilling through round stock I always use the poor man's hole jig. Take a bit of round stock the same diameter as the item to be drilled, or turn a bit to the correct size, place the cutoff Inthe lathe and drill a hole the correct size through the cutoff, then place the workpiece in a vice on the drill press with the drilled cutoff forming a T with the hole in line with were the hole is supposed to be then drill through the cutoff into the workpiece., I find it gives good results and keeps the drill straight as it passed through the workpiece. Quicker to do than wright about.

This is 99.9% the case for amplitude problems- in my experience it's rarely the mainspring. From the pic, the balance could be very much out of beat- the balance arms are supposed to be perpendicular to the line along the fork and escape wheel when at rest; it could be in beat, and someone installed the roller table without aligning it. That's one possible source of amplitude loss. Some others: -hairspring rubbing -excessive or insufficient endshakes -wear (in general), in particular at the bearing points of the center wheel and barrel -escapement out of adjustment -damaged or worn pivots -wear in the fork slot, fork pivot holes not perfectly clean (must peg them), debris on the roller jewel, roller jewel not vertical, chipped pallet stone(s) and probably a dozen other possible things With the balance and fork out (let down the power first!) put a few clicks of wind on it and see how the train moves. It should spin freely, and when it stops, ideally the escape wheel will reverse direction at least a little bit, or even a couple of turns. Now put the fork in, few clicks of wind, and see if it snaps from banking to banking cleanly with a slight nudge. That's a basic check, if it looks good, you can concentrate in the balance area.

I can only imagine that they've put hardened steel washers on wear points where the flat pinions ride. I'm no megafan of ETA, but one thing they know is metallurgy. I've worked on enough of their old stuff, and the ETA (Valjoux) 7750 is a benchmark piece for other various brands for "aging", and I've spoken to the test guys, ETA has their alloys and heat treatment honed. I have also "outside" bored the post that takes the flat pinion after the sliding (clutch) pinion and sleeved it with steel for numerous watches- but not ETA so far.

Aha...good concept. I need to shrink it down to mm dimensions...working on it now.

Hi there is a jig on ebay for drilling round stock, like a right angle with a movable arm which sets the vertical line or there is one like this one on the link https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrJO1WbpQ5iSecAFxp3Bwx.;_ylu=Y29sbwMEcG9zAzEEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3Nj/RV=2/RE=1645155868/RO=10/RU=https%3a%2f%2fwww.trick-tools.com%2fDrill_Rite_Precision_Drill_Guide_Drill_Rite_1155%23%3a~%3atext%3dThe%20Drill-Rite%20Precision%20Drill%20Guide%20is%20designed%20to%2cchassis%20tubing%2C%20framework%2C%20or%20any%20other%20round%20profile./RK=2/RS=sulV87xndemtjogCTTaB7ipp4Nk-

Well, when it comes to keyless works, I often have to refer to a diagram to get the terms correct. In my head (from what my dad taught me) I call it a clutch, but I see others call it a sliding pinion. Just trying to be as accurate with my terminology as possible!

I don't buy many clothes just enough to get by. I have never been a person who wants more then one pair of shoes or loads of shirts or jeans. I have clocks about my home all telling different times many I don't even wind up. I hardly ever go out, I don't like going out these days. I'm very happy with my two lovely cats. I don't have a TV nothing but crap on and I object having to pay for crap that I'll never watch beside I can watch what I like when I like on my computer. Now is there any more you would like to know about me?

Hello Tim and welcoe to the forum.

Funny this thread should get refreshed today...I was working on a 2824 yesterday. I think this is the second one I have serviced. What I noticed last time and this time is that replacing the stem once the watch has been re cased, is problematic. Twice, while replacing the stem, the clutch jumped out from under the yoke. I had to remove the hands and dial, calendar, and reset it. GRRRRR!! Then, observing how this movement works, I can see that the setting lever jumper spring pushes the yoke toward the "setting position" so more often than not, if you set the stem in "winding" position, upon removal, it tends to want to move to "setting" position and then you are screwed. So the LAST attempt, I put the stem in "setting" position before removal and all was well. This is DAMN tricky!! Seems like I read somewhere...the guidance in general is to put the watch in "setting" position before removing the stem. Thoughts? I am all ears. BTW, other than this issue, I like this movement. I see that it has been copied several times.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

hi there, fellow noob here, the people here are great! lots of advice, so far enjoying the journey !!

Do you mean 13"" (lignes). That is what Swiss mov.t use, not the American 's' system. I don't recognize that maker, but it seems very similar to Cyma below. Please post a dial side picture, as is needed when identifying uncommon mov.s. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&Cyma_565 Ripping and forcing don't apply to watchmaking. The mainspring is carefully removed from the barrel one coil at the time, avoiding any damage to it and yourself. Then, if it has to be measured in length that is done running a wire along it and measuring the latter. However when choosing by size the most important sizes before length (which can way a little) are barrel and arbor dia, height and thickness. Also, be aware that is the watch has very low amplitude (you should post a picture or two in different positions), the most likely cause is not the mainspring but anything else.

"single pole" Regarding the resistor...I can only guess. Probably dropping voltage to meet the specs of the bulb. Worst thing that can happen is burn out the bulb.

I should follow up, because I did appreciate your point from before, and I took the time today to clean the plates as best I could in lighter fluid. The damage is still there, and quite apparent now that the all of the jewels are otherwise very shiny.

Seriously, what is it about those photos that's causing everyone to immediately jump to not one, but TWO chipped jewels on a movement that OP explicitly states has not been cleaned? I know I have a sub-third world internet connection up here, but pretty sure we're looking at the same photos, and I see nothing that says the jewels are broken that couldn't just as easily say they're caked with old polymerized oil.

Good to know. But it's Russian after all. Maybe someone doped the lume so that it glows even without having to precharge it with light.

They are later than the 60s, so not radioactive. I tested mine with a geiger counter to be sure.

Or The Watch Repairers Manual

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vostok-Komandirskie-Mechanical-Military-Russian-wrist-watch-Tank-811306-/223754792594?mkevt=1&mkcid=16&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&media=MAILTO&sojTags=media%3Dmedia Here's one almost identical. I don't think the lume is radioactive. Any modern lume will glow when exposed to UV. The only way to test for radioactivity is with a Geiger counter.

They are common, and quite cheap on ebay. They do look good though He's one I have. Your's probably has a similar movement - http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Wostok_2414A

He says it's not been cleaned yet, and that's hardly a great photo. How do you guys know it's not just thoroughly oxidized/polymerized oil? Personally, without my stereomicroscope (and I could conceive of a scenario where even that would leave me unsure), I think I'd be hesitant to make any such calls prior to a good cleaning... OP, give it a good bath, and then get a really good look and/or take some really good photos.

I'm strange. I've worked on a very wide and eclectic variety of watch makes, from very cheap - to so extremely expensive that I was quite nervous when stripping them. But my own collection is rather small. Maybe 12 pocket watches and 8 wrist watches. But I like to wear or carry each one. Partly I wear them because, at my insurance job, it's a data-secure environment so we can't have a smart phone at our desk (because it can record information) so we tell time with our watches. But mostly, I just like them. I prefer them. I have one which is an old key wind/set Vacheron & Constantin (made before they dropped the "&") which could be worth a great deal. I cannot afford to have it appraised yet. But I'm in no hurry; I'm not selling it. I adore it just as it is, and carry it now and then. Maybe someday, I will learn how much some stranger would try to pay me for it. I have an Elgin in an 18k case too. And a gorgeous silver Longines from 1919. In all, they are likely worth far more to me than to anyone else. All mine are serviced and are as accurate as they are capable of being. So I figure, why not use them, and show them off a bit now and again?

I was affraid this wil be coming, in fact couple of years ago, anvil suggested I should show my Oris watches, which I replied I will, but I keep them in my bank safe deposit box which I haven't gone to in the past three years. I think I shall post a pic of all watches spread on the bank floor plus perhaps two dozen pix of individual pieces, since showing each piece individually is a job but lacks educational significance. I know..... I am lazy..... but looks like this task is upon me this time.

Good work on mentally backtracking and figuring out what you did wrong. Most of the mistakes and slips I've made have been late at night or when I'm rushing to finish a project. Its best to step back and cover everything up for another time if fatigued. J