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I think we can concur what happened is what jdm has said the spring broke at the most stressed point, a previous repairer has removed the spring and re punched the hole but not bothered to reform the coil as it would require the spring to be annealed and reformed, a cheap repair that would work untill the spring slipped the arbour and would not re engage. a new mainspring is required to complete the job.

and just who is it that you are referring to?

I have recently used a jacot tool to successfully re-polish a badly worn pivot in a pocket watch the first time in my life. I have watched Richard's videos about it and I also went to a book printed in the same year I was born in 1976. This book is written in Hungarian and was one of the book used by the state sponsored and only one watchmaker school as far as I understand. (To my knowledge you cannot learn watchmaking any longer in Hungary as of now.) I scanned the corresponding pages as how to re-finish a pivot including the usage of a jacot tool. It was a great help to me so I thought I share these pages with you. After scanning the pages i sent the pdf through a pdf to txt engine then sentence by sentence I translated the Hungarian text to English. I learnt watchmaking in English and it might sound strange but the Hungarian name of the parts and methods were unknown to me. This added some more difficulty on top of the fact that my English is far from perfect. I am writing this because I am not sure how good the end result is. If anyone feels that could correct the text so it would be more readable or would make better sense please do so. Enjoy if you can. jacot_tool.pdf jacot_tool_Kopasok_javitasa_magyar.txt jacot_tool_repairing_wear.txt

As correctly noted above the connector looks familiar but it's not what you're thinking it is. This is the one you want it fits perfectly.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/221445284681 I purchased the connectors for an unfinished project that would be helpful. The Chinese machines lack audio and the ability to listen to the watch especially if you're having problems is really important.. The ability to listen to the watch and see if it actually is an audio problem or something else. The easiest way to get audio from the timing machines is to hack the microphone.. Using a pair of the connectors you can make a pass through I would put it in a Metal box though so it shielded.. This way the microphone and continue to function like it's supposed to and you have access to everything you need to have audio. In other words it should be relatively easy if you have the time which I seem to be lacking to put an audio device on your timing machine and then listen to the watch and be unhappy with how horrible it can sound. Then I'm not joking about how horrible it can sound I have a horrible sounding watch currently at work I have to deal with it sounds very very bad... But at least in the audio I know why the timing machines unhappy with the watch. With the audio you take away a lot of the mysteries that you see on the timing machine. For testing purposes the watch should run just fine without lubricants. You might actually find the reality is a watch runs better without lubricants because all lubricants tend to have a dampening effect. On the other hand try to run your watch over long periods of time with out lubricant and see what effect that has it's usually not good. But there can be an issue with the lubrication of the escapement.. They get carried away with the 9415 then that's definitely an issue and will cause Amplitude loss as it tends to be sticky if it's applied way too heavily. The lubrication aspect is interesting because George Daniels was very very unhappy with Omega.. Look at the tech sheet for the coaxial escapement and you find lubrication but my understanding is it's not used as lubrication.. It's used to dampen the impact of the escapement but it still required. Defeating the whole purpose this escapement of not requiring a lubrication..

Bulova Seaking Automatic from 1975 I believe. Just restored and serviced this for my next door neighbour. It's 'on test' for the next day. He told me he got it for his tenth wedding anniversary and has been in a drawer for 25 years or so. Going to give it back to him tomorrow evening. I hope he will be pleased to wear it again.

My understanding is that the dial is coated with a compound of zinc sulfide mixed with copper, a substance which becomes luminescent when an electrical charge is applied. so there are no electronic on the dial itself. And to add I've never swapped a movement in on of these. So that is about all I can add.

Hi everyone, Im new here Just get back into pocket watches after selling out 5yrs ago. Acquired this nice RR watch a week ago, it is now getting a full cleaning, oil, adjust service in NYC...likely another week till I get this beauty home. 23J Illinois Bunn Special Illinois 18-size 23-jewel Bunn Special w/ DS Montgomery dial. 1913 date 25- year,Gold-filled Keystone re-case, glass crystal. i am now retired and dabbling with Idea of online watch repair training...really to the basic tear down Cleaning adjust, replace spring level.

Probably so, that way the spring would always remain attached. Once released there would be no chance of re attachment other than physically removing the barrel to re engage. A bad repair.

I see what you mean. As soon the mainspring is coiled a little it keeps the hook in the hole. Maybe the recommendation at delivery was not to ever let the watch unwind completely

The mainspring broke at the point of maximum stress, typically where curving is tighter. If you inspect the edge you could be able to see signs of fracture instead of a manufacturing cut.

Just to be clear, what the topic I have linked before is about is to inform that the only attachments supported are images (JPG and PNG are the formats normally used), and documents in PDF. Nothing else will work.

The remarks made on WUS (unacceptable pictures to start) are valid no matter how bluntly made. And I think your and my arguments, plus the good spotting by nucejoe are sound as well. The OP asked after having paid already, how much we may never know. In the end anyone is responsible for his own decisions.

Check the file size. also the type - I believe mp4 is not supported so things like PowerPoint etc may not work. try putting it into a gif.

farewell than, may peace be with you!

For a flat polished screw, I prefer to see them with whatever is left of the original finish; when you start filing on them that itself raises burrs so it's all or nothing. I get really irritated when I see a buffstick job on formerly flat screws. That's just my opinion though.

I could not resist presenting this in this thread. Video from 3-4 months ago. Prolly gonna catch some grief...LOL. I realized later that I meant "diameter of the head" and not of the screw...but hey! 183418415_Caravelleclip2.mp4

A couple of weeks ago I received my first IOSS purchase, that is a small tool from a reputable Ebay UK seller. The label clearly indicated "VAT Paid IOSS xxxzzz", notwithstanding this my national post charged an accessible €5.90 as customs handling fees - no VAT was charged. That is clearly not in the intent of the program, but unless the EU mandates that no additional fees on IOSS can be charged (and I doubt that will happen), I'm afraid that any postal administration, and private courier will still continue to charge as they please. Their justification is that current regulations state that "any package presented to customs" is charged handling fees. In contrast, the Chinese (AliExpress) already do better than that. They charge VAT at time of purchase, and ship all EU orders to a centralized hub in the Netherlands, where they clear customs and combine multiple packages to a same customer when possible. The shipment is then made from the EU and no charges are due at delivery.

I reopen this topic because i made a bezel with my resin 3d printer that is acceptable.

I actually think the extra dots on the trace is due to noise as I can get the artifacts to disappear by readjusting the movement in the mic jaws. I think the movement is just really quiet, and any looseness can cause artifacts.

Winding wheel is missing a few teeth. Is the seller selling you this as genuine? Does he accept return?

If you can't make an adapter as described in the link below use the mic from headset or earbuds. Check thread below. Note, the connector is not an XLR, even it it looks and can plugged (with excessive force) into one. It's a 3 pin "aero" connector. I will add more details to the topic when I get around to build and test mine.

A few weeks ago myself and my dearest took a short break and as it was close by we visited the horological museum at Upton Hall. Upton hall is actually run by two separate entities the museum and the training workshops which are run by the BHI. If anyone wishes to visit be aware that their website is shows the wrong opening time it is only open for visitors on Fridays and opens at 11.00 not 10.00. I did raise this with one of the managers and was assured the site will be updated. I was also allowed to visit one of the workshops and met the tutor who was at the time overseeing a course on quartz watches.We did have an interesting conversation regarding how the industry has changed and spare parts was also debated!!. To be honest overall I was a bit as disappointed in that there are only three rooms and I was hoping for a bigger museum. There are however on display early electric clocks,turret clocks,bracket clocks,long case clocks and a few watches mainly pocket. It also has a working expanded model displays of the various escapes and clearly shows how the various escapes work. I found the most interesting display and a talk was on the UK talking clocks. On display there were talking clocks through the years from the first to the latest talking clock which still is used receiving 100,000 calls per annum. The first talking clock was ingenious with the voice recorded onto spinning glass discs. However the first voice was by a telephonist Jane Cain who had a lisp so the discs had to be modified by hand to remove this imperfection and this task took 3 months to complete. The talking clock is still used mainly by charities to raise funds such as children in need. But for those who need the exact time such as scientists it is still used because it is almost the exact time being linked directly to Greenwich. The first UK speaking clock (1936) was accurate to within 1/10th of a second. Today’s speaking clock is within five thousandths of a second. Overall it is well worth a visit and the BHI courses are certainly worth considering. The first of two speaking clocks 1936

Is the hairspring in between the regular pins

Are you sure the operating lever is assembled correctly? From my point of view it lies quite too much to the center of the movement. Please have a look at my 7734 walkthrough to the pictures 19, 20 and 21. The layering of the lever is tricky, there is a part of the bridge lying between two parts of the lever.

Still no sign of my parts movement. How about another ladies Timex for my wife? Model 71. Beautiful.

How about a third? Fully serviced, new mineral glass, etc.

Sounds like you got some lint or dust particle in your gear train. Komandirskie would be a great watch to start learning watch repair with. It's built like a tank and would be an ideal watch for a novice. Watch Mark's videos on how to service a mechanical watch. He even has one on the Komandirskie.

There were a bunch of movements using the same balance staff and therefor probably the same balance complete. Here are some: 5201, 5202, 5203, 5204, 5210, 5220, 5230, 5260, 5270, 5290, 5400, 5401, 5420, 5430, 5460, 5470, 6400, 6420

Rumors, ya know? I can’t recall the name as it didn’t leave much of an impression (I was not impressed), though I remember him being very passive aggressive in his posts. I doubt it’s true. Most people here seem to have too much integrity to cut corners like that. I’m moving on now and going to continue to do what I do. Good luck with your wacky adventures.