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Santa dropped it off yesterday....? Longines Super Thin 1970, caliber 428,

been there and done that. lesson learned. don't beat yourself up too bad about it. shake your head, take a breath, laugh at yourself and do like I did-be glad no one else was in the shop when you did it. that is, until you posted it in here. ? I have a small container I keep on my bench front and center that I wrote on the cover, "OFFERINGS TO THE GODS OF HOROLOGY." That's where I put things like your hairspring. Trust me, you'll need an intact sense of humor doing this stuff. btw I'm a newbie too. cheers to one hairspring.

I’m doing a job for a gent on a BW Raymond 16S Elgin 21 Jewel and I have noticed that the new balance he sourced is the same length, but the balance shoulder and seat seem to ba a bit off. Included some disassembly photos. Plus the last guy shellacked the heck out of the roller jewel. Not sure why and I may need to clean this up....can’t let it go; darn!

Yes sry, that picture wasnt really ment for close examination... yes indeed i can still wind it and the balance wheel can move freely just not on its own, as you can see in the video. WhatsApp Video 2020-12-26 at 23.07.47.mp4

Alexandros, we are ALL capable of cockups, being tired, lack of concentration or trying to be more careful and in doing so slip up. The thing to do is to read up or watch videos if possible of the procedure you are about to undertake and be familiar with the correct tools and what you are doing and foremost take your time and think it through, but above all enjoy what you are doing. The members here are here to help. If you are not sure ask no matter how simple. I wish you a Happy New Year

Jesus! It's like watching a movie showing AA group during their meeting: any new member starts with "Hi, my name is "such-and-such" and I am a hairspring butcher! ? I suppose this hairspring was destroyed by pulling the balance cock straight up ignoring that the balance wheel got caught by the center wheel? Next time, after removing Balance Cock Screw, use tweezers to carefully lift the Balance Cock a tiny bit up, then rotate 45-90 degrees out of the movement as the whole assembly while tilting it and lifting up very slowly to make sure the roller / impulse jewel do not pull the Pallet Fork, and that the Balance Wheel is not interfering with the Center Wheel.

Well said Mike we have all been there and got the T shirt, be posative and things will only improve.

Hi Gary forund the attached on Ranfft. The family gereration inclused the 200 series ie 265. checkout the attached 265 sheet against th Ranfft oictures. bidfun-db Archive_ Watch Movements_ Omega 30T2.html 2362_Omega 265.pdf

I think I found the "common old standard miniature instrument threads" which I think includes vintage american pocketwatches.

Found it, thanks! Entertaining (and useful) to read the Swedish names of the parts more or less for the first time even though @HSL has taught me a lot of them (Thanks!). The names seem to have more in common with German than with English, but that doesn't come as a surprise, I suppose.

Isn't cymrex a watch brand name? Look for the caliber, its usually engraved somewhere on the movement, if no luck, show clear close ups of the movement and writting, marks on it, so it can be identified. We then need to look it up in databases hoping to find the right mainspring, also measure and disclose dimentions of the barrel and of the mainspring. Meŕry Christmas.

I page flip of the Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking Instruction Manual. Enjoy.

It's in my letter to Santa..

Yes, you can. Blame it on Covid19 and get the cheque from the Government. What you can do is to practice on this "curly thing" how-to remove the hairspring from the balance and put it back on. It's very therapeutic.

If what worries you is the reverser wheels, bathi g them in a solution of 2% of 9010 in petroleum ether works well. All the rest use HP 1300 and 9010 for tre bearing. IMHO, there is no need for a beginner to spend more.

I think broke is too kind for the description of what I'm seeing. Normally a balance complete would be recommended but even if we could find you a balance complete the source I'm currently looking at says that it would cost $27 and it's out of stock. The other problem is you have to get it in and based on what I'm seeing there is no way you could get it in. I'd recommend a movement complete think about that is lots of spare parts for anything else that's going to accidentally get broken.

You Swedes on this site . Check Anders Andersson site out. https://anderstestarblog.wordpress.com/ Great page for all. Not just for Swedes .

This page. http://watchmaking.se/ You have a good page there which translate from English to Swedish . Maybe wasn't that easy to find. As Per Torphammar name isn't on that page. Only the mailaddress.

, Hi Bernie I think Joe is correct, I have attached the tec sheet for your information. 276_Seiko6309A (3).pdf

As far as I know the only reason you'd ever use a split stem is if the movement is coming out the front. Because otherwise typically there would be no way to remove the stem safely. Of course this is watch repair there's always exceptions to the rule. Seiko once made a case that they added a separate part to the movement so you can release the stem from the front side once the crystal was removed. I have a vague memory of seeing a watch that you could remove something from the back to get to the stem release. Then not all split stem's are separated by pulling really hard. Typically everywhere everyone tells you just pull it out and Most the time people are lucky and it's the kind of split stem that is meant to pop apart. But like the picture above that particular split stem you're supposed to slide the movement out. Mido has a split stem shaped like the picture above and definitely do not want to pop it apart. We went through this Where I work another watchmaker pulled it out damaged it attempted to tighten it and broke it. This required purchasing a used case off of eBay just to get the crown and its stem. Then the movement stem was challenging because it came in a whole bunch a variety of lengths which didn't seem to correspond to the length we had. But eventually we found the right one. Which is why caution is always required with split stems.

The clock strikes Christmas 1975 and these two sister were each given a watch which they are, here on a picture, proudly showing off. Their last parent recently passed away and in the parents "jewellery-box" one of the thought long lost watches emerged again. Inside the back-lid was the name S.Kocher stamped, a Swiss company long gone, went begin 1980's during the "Quartz"-crisis under. The watch was in their line of the "Royce"-watches and had an undisturbed Swiss 21.600BHP, 17-jewels AS1726 cheased /non-running movement. I serviced the movement, which now runs with a 0.0ms beat-error and a 270 degrees amplitude (DU & DD), polished the acrylic-crystal and case. It gets presented back to the owner on Christmas 2020, exactly 45 years later, in a nearly as new condition ? I'm sure for her a happy X-mas with some old memories ? For me another fulfilling job done ? Happy X-mas !

I hardly every see the split stems. In this case, the case was very basic - two parts. The entire crown with outer winding step was missing. I purchased a suitable crown and the outer Stem 0.9mm, adjusted the stem length and voila! I've decided not to push it in (what if it breaks! ? ). Instead, I rotated the inner stem and the outer stem up to align "tongue and groove) and simply dropped the movement in. Once it was in, two-part stem was securely locked. Same procedure for removal - no need to pull the crown with pliers, etc. Simply remove the bezel and rotate the crown while lifting the dial until you able to pull it straight up.

Hello and welcome to the forum. can you post a picture of the said clock and required bezel size so members know what they are looking at and can advise thank you.

Handmade

I decided to give the elegant little "Crown Watch" "Ancre 15 Rubis" an airing today. This has a strange arrangement of "almost fixed lugs", in the sense that they have pins that roll, but are so tightly fitted that there is no way to remove them, so it requires a strap suited to fixed lugs. I can't remember what the caliber is, but for those who want to know, here is a picture of its beating mechanical heart. I would suggest it is probably from the 1940s or 1950s judging by the styling, but that is simply a guess, so possibly from the Bombay "Crown Watch" company, or.. possibly not.

I recently worked on a 1958 Marlin model 22 which at first looked very promising. All was looking great until about 5 minutes went by and it stopped. Typically when this happens to me after a service I find I over oiled a pivot or other such friction point. But, what I found was that the pivot hole on the top plate that the escape wheel fits into was elongated. Could it be corrected? Maybe after a few more years at the hobby I will take on the task. But to me it was more rewarding that I spotted the issue than trying to correct it.

Perhaps this page? https://www.facebook.com/AmateurWatchmaking/posts/hi-watchfriendsfinaly-i-have-totally-remade-my-hompage-you-are-most-welcome-with/2083826425001416/ http://watchmaking.se/BOOK/Shop/shop.htm

Thank you for your kind words! ? It's a very slim automatic movement. Just take a look at the oscillating weight (rotor) size and how it is fitted.

A test to find out if impulse is in beat when movement isn't running. - Release all barrel power through the click so fork wont be charged with any force to deliver to impulse jewel/ pin, then obviously balance would not run but stops. then turn balance wheel manually, by tweezers etc, whilst you keep an eye on fork, at some point fork starts to move, which indicates impulse has come to engage with fork's crown/ horn , you can also see pallets engaging with escape wheel. Impulse jewel/balance wheel is in beat if impulse jewel is inside of fork horn as balance wheel comes to rest( without any external force acting on oscilator including the fork). This is enough for the escapement to do its job and energize the oscilator, though some error is inevitable, timegrapher will then show you the beat error. A step furthur is to observe pallet do a drop, that is where you want fork to deliver energy to impulse jewel so to maximize the amplitude. We all are learning here, without asking you wont get a response. Good luck pal.

Alarm "clock"! ?

I'm attaching images of the screw sizes for Elgin and Waltham. Then I've only ever seen Elgin has a set of taps available occasionally it shows up on eBay like at the link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Elgin-Watch-One-Set-Taps-For-All-Size-Screws-Set-27-Complete-1920s-RARE/124245232784?hash=item1ced97cc90:g:YIAAAOSwoPRe~f8e