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Hi Luiazazrambo attached below is the oil cup stand and oilers made from the contact lens cups and one of the workbench build at zero cost from redundant scrap cabinets. Made the drawer unit and modified the cupboard. the oilstand also zero cost apart from the investment of time.

Cousins lists GR5285, 0.115 x 1.80 x 340 The WatchGuy extracted all the data from the GR catalogues and put them in one table : https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings Very useful. Thanks WatchGuy

Part of the training. The difference between a good woodworker, and a great woodworker, is how well they hide their mistakes.

Parnis - Azteca project. .

So when trying to regulate the ST96 it only responces with a zero to +570 spann, since everything else looks good there probably is a hickup on the hairspring a small nick, dirt, oil or magnetism. You should be able to see if it compresses to much so the hairspring sticks or are stuck all the time. This phenomena makes the spring act shorter and the rate shoots away into the sky.

That is cool af!

Indeed! Thanks WatchGuy! ?? I have a Poljot Alarm (my first) in the pipe and was worrying about the spring in the alarm barrel. When I checked the list I saw this: Poljot 2612 mouv. RS1S06430 3283-DB... Poljot 2612 reveil RS1S09739 5215-DB... Jumping up and down with joy! ?

Ha I was just looking in my GR catalog, that's correct. It won't have a hole end, but the normal tongue end will work fine with the hook in the barrel.

First thing to check is the gap between the hairspring curb pins, which should be equal to roughly twice the hairspring thickness. Then you must see that the hairspring is centered in the pins with the balance at rest. What can happen is the hairspring gets bumped so that it is in contact with a pin, then as amplitude goes up it gradually pulls away during part of the vibration, spending more and more time away from the pin. If the gap is large the effect is greater. Also, the hairspring must be level and well centered both overall and at the collet. In high precision timing sometimes a very slight move of the spring at the collet can give a difference of 10 seconds or so in isochronal error (or adjustment).

It did slightly slow that Waltham pocket watch I was working on. But it’s not going to add 500 seconds. Has it run in overnight at least?

Today its time for a Sekonda branded Poljot 2460 based USSR quartz. It had a few slight marks on the dial, but other than that, a good clean and polish and a fresh battery, I've not much else to say. However if you want a little more ofthe story about USSR watches, then you could do worse than to click here -> https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/how-the-soviets-revolutionized-wristwatches/

? Hmmm... Maybe not the bezel, but perhaps you could weave a pampas grass watch band. On second thoughts, maybe that might attract all the wrong kind of attention.... ? Then again who am I kidding, there's no chance that anybody is ever likely to wear this unless they have just flown in from the 1960s.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Press-n-Peel-Blue-Transfer-Film-PCBs/dp/B078BQNSGF

Same two capacitor small screws as in pc21 etc movement. Are you in the UK ?

Get a small neodinium magnet and wrap it in white painters tape. The tape only serves to make dark objects stand out against the light background, so it is optional. Remove any other watches from the area you were working in so you don't affect them with the magnet, and carefully and methodically sweep the bench, carpet, your trousers, socks, jumper floor, and everything within a few feet of your work area. Hopefully the tiny screw will stick to the magnet and you will see it sitting smugly on the white tape. I have lost count of the number of times I've had to endure this little ritual, looking for tiny springs, screws, watch hands, winders and all the other little parts that like to mysteriously vanish from the end of my tweezers. I recently found a spring from a Sekonda that I lost a few weeks back, while looking for a screw that I had just dropped. I also found the screw ? Brass and stainless steel parts are more tricky as they wont stick to the magnet. For those, I attack the carpet with a piece of duck tape, in the hope that I'll pick up more parts than carpet fluff.

Hello and welcome to the world of Horology, we all loose bits its par for the course. You are not alone !

If you can send me the caliber I am happy to check if I have it in my parts drawer

Welcome to the forum.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Welcome to the forum Mark.

Welcome! Mark's videos are great.

It is possible to produce an iconic brown dial, but it is a tricky task. In my opinion the troicalized Omega Speedmaster hits the spot a bit better than the Rolex.

geeze! Who did the lume on that one?

Pedantic is good. I didn't even get the complications right, it does indeed appear to be a 2414 day only rather than a 2429 day date. As to "brown", how could we have survived the 1970s without brown? Even Rolex were not immune to the 1970s brown phase I actually think the Slava carries it off a little better, but others may disagree.

I printed the 2nd lens tube and have started to print the first of the two bottom housings. So far so good. I may stick with the red colour of the plastic, or perhaps I should go for the distressed metal look.

Also from the same batch of "junk", a petite Sekonda 17 Jewel ladies "FR Ebauche" rhodium plated with articulated bracelet. This was filthy, and the crystal was scratched up, but it cleaned up to almost new condition. A quick service and off it went. As is often the case, the extreme close up doesn't do it justice.

Side by side with its Soviet counterpart. I wasn't happy with the fit of the second hand, so I had another look through the spares and found a better candidate. Admittedly the new replacement started life a strange dayglow green and all scratched, but once painted the correct colour it looks almost original (based on pictures of similar watches found online).

Casio W800-H "Illuminator" rescued from the junk pile. This was so scratched up that I doubted I could get it half way readable. I guess that just goes to show, with enough grit and determination you can actually polish a turd. Enjoy the strap. I couldn't find anything less suitable, so I stuck it on this. I think it actually works, in a strange and faintly disturbing sort of a way.