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They actually work. But not like a traditional chronograph. The upper sub displays minutes, 45 in total. The bottom dial displays hours up to 6 total. When you pull out the crown to set the time, the sub dial hands move in unison with the main hands. The two pushers stop and start the seconds hand, while the rest of the movement continues to run. Im attaching a video illustrating that. 20200122_111427_2.mp4

Just to close out this thread concerning low amplitude, I finally got around to addressing the issue of too much lock. The pallet stones were probably not original as they were already set back into the pallet fork as far as they could go. I removed the pallet stones, ground down the back ends, reinserted them and applied shellac. After making some adjustments, the amplitude jumped from the initial 166 to 265 degrees.

To date, what is the most difficult and frustrating watch movement that you have had to reassemble? Personally, my choice (So far) would be the Harley Ronda 726 chronograph. After stripping, cleaning, and reassembly, I discovered that the circuit was faulty and was in need of replacement. Luckily, I found one in Los Angeles USA. The circuit is buried deep inside, so a couple of layers have to be removed in order to get at it. Lining everything up, after, is where the nightmare begins. Honestly, what a totally frustrating experience and how these things are ever designed and made in the first instance, is way beyond me! A beautiful watch, though, and the rewards after competion make the effort well worth it. Well, over to you, what is your nightmare?

The bezels between turtles and samurai are interchangeable! Not many people know this, assuming you mean a prospex turtle. SKX models can easily be found on eBay. I purchased a brand new oem Seiko bezel and insert for my skx009 it was $69. Parts for the 4R36 are also available a bezel & insert for the turtle is about $139. there also many sights who sell aftermarket bezels/inserts for the samurai. Just do a search on the net but here is one: https://www.dlwwatches.com/collections/ceramic-bezel-inserts/samurai there are no secret places for parts because they are everywhere. I just wish it was the same for deep blue watches.

There is no secret places for parts, all one can find is revealed by Internet search. Now, if you are looking for new parts for the original 7S26 watch, I don't think you can find any. And for the new 4R36 you could try having Cousins or an official Seiko dealer make an order. Anyway it would be very expensive compared to the cost of the complete watch.

I was wondering myself and will jave to experiment. Good results from topic below You mean genuine Seiko? Easy to get from Cousins, but much more expensive. Check because this is a typical symptom of the HS rubbing somewhere

If you are getting the same results with all of your re-builds then perhaps you are being over zealous with the amount lubricants being applied or you are just using the wrong lubricants.

Andy were you bidding against me? I love these. What happened to your locomotive watch? Have you got it? I am excited.

A controlled burn? Or conflagration?

Hi I Have attached the C153 tech sheets , they may be of some use If you decide to delve into the works. Cheers. C153A.pdf

The 255.462 seems to be the 255.461 just with minor modifications (which it's unlikely included the clip!). Here's an example of the 461's clip: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PARTI-VARIE-ETA-PARTS-9702-PV-PAG-1-ETA-255-461/223639803696 You can also pick up from somewhere like Cousins (their item ID = ETA2554619702). Don't we all just love fiddly springs and clips that can disappear without trace!

Yes probably it can. I would start with opening it and cleaning everything - then consider inspecting the circuit board for damage. I found mine needed a new polarizing filter on the LCD. I do have a spare circuit board somewhere if required. They come up on ebay as well. In that condition restored its probably worth at least 125 GBP.

Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

@AndyHull ... On all dials or dial plates I've worked on the registration pin sitted at 3:00 You can check that looking at a dial with a date window Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

ok i think you could be over oiling the escapement, If you are using 9415 on the pallet stones there should be no need to use epilame or to have to oil the escape wheel teeth, either with 9415 or 9010 on the escapement (this has been debated many times over) you should not have to oil every 3rd tooth or any teeth for that matter, oiling the exit or entry stone or even both, and running the watch through a few cycles should disperse the oil properly, some prefer to oil one or two teeth max but I argue this is def. not needed with use of 9415. Iam more of oil the pallet stones kinda guy. After oiling the escape wheel teeth like you normally do put the escape under magnification, you should not see any oil or wetness on the teeth after a few minutes of running the watch, if you do you used too much. They should look dry. Also are you oiling the pallet pivots? Because you should not be. Also epilame is best used with 9010, 9415 is such an amazing grease, and i say grease because it technically is, it stays put on pallet stones, it liquifies with friction so it turns to oil on contact but does not spread to escape wheel teeth, this is why 9415 and epilame were formulated to prevent what you are doing from happening. if you are using 9415 on teeth and pallet stones that is almost likely your issue, esp if you oiled on top of old oil. i would re-clean the entire movement oil everything as normal except for the escape then check your results and get back to us.

I don’t have a before pic but It would surprise you to know there was about 7 hairline cracks in this dial, the one on the left was the worst one but it was major difference, it looks more prominent in the pic but in person with naked eye you cant even see that one unless you get very close.

In school we had curved tweezers and #5. It was up to each student to find what they were comfortable with; most ended up just using the 5s. We started with large springs, like from Big Ben alarm clocks, working down to little bitty ones. First we would straighten out a coil totally straight, then recurve it. Then we formed letters of the alphabet (really, haha). The spring needed to stay flat through all of this. Then the teacher would take a virgin spring and introduce errors in the round, and in the flat, which we had to correct. This was over a couple of weeks. When we could comfortably fix springs that had no collet or stud or anything, we would start making corrections in the watch. When we could do that, we finally learned to vibrate them. There are springs to be found on Ebay and from some of the material suppliers; it's very worthwhile to get some and spend some time figuring things out and gaining skill.

Timex parts? Who the heck would be crazy enough to buy Timex parts? Oh yeah, ME!

the Timex watch forum stood by a 3 stage process when it came to the typical mechanical movements. This is what I use and it is successful the majority of times and when it is not it is because of wear or damage that has occurred to the parts. The following are the basics. Of course more detail in each step and one day I'll write a book. Nah, I hate writing 1) ammonia bath - water rinse 2) lighter fluid bath - air dry 3) oil and grease

When I was working as a watchmaker back in the 70' & 80's the company I worked for would send them away. Back to Dundee, Timex on many occasions would send back a replacement watch for the same price as a repair. I would laugh and say to the staff even Timex can't be bothered to repair there own, that's how bad the movements are. Little did I know that in this day and age people would still be repairing and collecting the things.

A problem in watch repair is assuming that a pocket watch is just a big version of a wristwatch. Then I'm restricting the word pocket watch to be associated with American pocket watch versus a modern Swiss pocket watch which is basically equivalent to a wristwatch. So pocket watch repair requires a different strategy than wrist watch repair. You have to assume with 100 years of variety of types a repair that things have been changed modified or bad things have occurred unfortunately. You always have to check the escapement check the safety features checked the banking pins. You can't just assume there where there supposed to be. The balance wheel is another place of concern. Mean time screws that are now loose or even the timing screws that are either missing or different sizes. It's amazing how much bad things have occurred to American pocket watches and they're still trying to run. Then replacing parts to solve the problem isn't always the best solution. Because getting a replacement part means that you going to have to fit the part to the watch versus others to fit the watch to the part which can be a definite problem with staffs ending up with one that won't fit at all. So start with the banking pins verify that your safety features are functional then you can deal with the stones which are definitely not the right place. It's amazing how much energy you lose with that much locking.

Thanks for the info Ferdinand. For the money, these machines are really very good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 1900 give you the option to manually select the beat. This can be very useful. The 1000 is very limited in this respect. Having said that, the 1000 is excellent for majority of watches you would work on, no good for co-axials but good for the most common beat ranges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

THANK YOU clock boy! You said everything i have been trying to say except with much less words. But again OP is adamant about his oiling practices so i really cant see how we are going to be able to help him if he wont accept the fact there could be an issue with his oiling, OK it may not be an issue with “THIS MOVEMENT” but what about “LITERALLY EVERY WATCH (you) SERVICE”???? Iam actually genuinely trying to help but i cant offer advice to someone who refuses it even though he was the one who asked for it to begin with. Ask anyone on here i always try to help, but when you are the one actually being passive aggressive with me then sorry iam not the issue here. I never went on a rant and never said what you are doing was wrong, I mentioned several times how and what oils to use on escapement is highly subjective, i dont use 9415 w/epilame, but never said you cant, i never heard of oiling only the teeth and again, i also never said it was wrong. My whole response was in regards to over oiling, which as you know has nothing to do with procedure. Which AGAIN can be the overall issue you could be having even though it may not apply to this one movement. GO back and read your first post. if you said hey i have a movement where amp drops after service and left it at that it would be different story but NO, you said and i quote again For the the 5TH TIME “literally every watch i service” you then later say No No No its not every movement. Lmao so it blows my mind how what i said which is what others members have already said is such a sensitive issue to you. I meant what i said it was not sarcasm, i truly want to know what your issue is here, but it seems like there hasn’t been a best answer yet so why not ask your mentor, i would have asked him before anything.

You could always ask the watchmaker who taught you how to oil the escapement. I think he will be the one to best answer your questions. At this point everyone on here shooting in the dark because You are all over the map. You change this you didn’t oil this you cleaned this but didn’t clean this, etc. but I am very curious to see what your issue is so I am rooting for you. Good luck