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manodeoro

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Everything posted by manodeoro

  1. Thanks a lot guys ... I'll do some test and show the results. I really love that dial though it's pretty stained and scratched so I'll try first with Rodico, Q-tips and distilled water and see how it goes. There is no financial risk as I got it for cheap ($40 shipped) but those 1002 dials don't often show up on the net and are sold for much more, even if they are damaged ... plus I have a nice 5500 case that's waiting for a dial By the way ... did anyone of you ever drilled an ETA 2840 mainplate to make place for Rolex dial feets ? I'm asking because I have the case, the low beat ETA and a handset that could fit but I don't think I could ever cut the feets of a Beyeler Rolex dial
  2. Hi guys Today I received that nice 1002 dial, probably late 70ies. Condition is not very good but all the printings are there though some are really faded, and "Beyeler" engraved on the back. It needs some work before putting it back in its case but I must admit I'm really hesitating on how to proceed and which method would be the more safe. I know it won't ever look like new again (and that's better for a 50 years old dial) but I would like to clean it at my best. So here are the pics and feel free to give your opinions about that.
  3. It depends ... the cheapest are mine and others ... only for repair
  4. Not a complete watch ... Just a dial but a really nice old 5500 one Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  5. Welcome from France [emoji846] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. So I suppose I'll have to do a full service [emoji848] I'll search for a technical sheet showing "where to oil" and "which oil to use" ... Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. That Reliance really looks like my Leon Piraguet 17 jewels ... case/bezel/crown/hands/etc ... even the design of the dial is similar except mine has a Lorsa P75 inside. That's why I thought about a Lorsa P72 Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  8. May I guess the Reliance could have Lorsa ? Possibly a P72 or P72A ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  9. Hi guys, So 2 days ago I had a "watch meeting" with a friend from Hawaï and at a moment he showed me his non working HUBLOT BIGBANG STEEL and hasked me if I would try to fix the problem. The watch worked for about 15 seconds then stopped ... started again with a little shake and stopped again after 15 seconds ... really strange. As we were in a cafe I said I could have a look later so, as he was leaving to Hawaï the day after and had already ordererd a new one, he decided to give it to me. From the previous sentences you already know that HUBLOT is a replica ... as nobody would ever "give" a 12.000€ watch and I would never take any risk working on such a watch So I thank him and accepted the challenge. So here are pics of the watch ... I'm not certain but the movement seems to be a decorated 7750 asian clone, modified to move the subdials When back home I checked first without opening it (far from home for the WE so no tools). I first pulled the crown to setting position then back to winding position and ... the watch started again and worked for 10/20 seconds and stopped. As he had me he had wind a little I decided to take my chance with the chrono, that worked the same as the watch ... 10 seconds then stopped ... so I laucnhed it again, stopped it instantly and reset. Then I've tried to play a little with the movement, completely at random : - changed the date (2nd/quickdate position) and pass a complete month - turned the hands (3rd/setting position) to pass 48 hours - setted hour and date by turning the hands (3rd position) - pushed the crown back in the 1rst/winding position At the moment the watch started again and worked for about 12 hours then stopped (not on my wrist and put dial upside). Yesterday evening I tried to start it again but it only worked for about 15 seconds and stopped. Early this morning I decided to take my chance again and see how long it could work on my wrist. I winded it (just a few turns of the crown) and the watch worked for 10/15 seconds. So, still acting at random, I started/stopped/resetted the chrono and the watch started working again ... and strangely decided to keep on working. So I've set the date and hour and put it on my wrist. This happened around 6 o'clock in the morning. At the moment it's 02:10 PM and the watch is on my wrist, still working well and keeping good time. I'll keep the watch on my wrist until 11:50 PM the I'll put it dial upside in a drawer. Tomorrow morning I'll check how it goes ... If it's still working then I'll try to launch/stop/reset the chrono again and check if this stop the watch or deosn't do anything. Etc ... for a few days ... just doing tests before opening the watch. So ... thank you for reading if you have gone so far and if you have any idea or intuition about what going weird with that 7750 clone movement it will be really helpfull.
  10. I don't have a solder station, just simple tools that work to do that. And I don't use glue anymore for dial feets ... sorry
  11. Hi Johnnie Sorry for not posting anymore on that thread but the last past weeks my live have been a real mess (too much work). But I have some good news about that nice Sealion I have sourced a rotating bezel that should fit the case with just some little sanding !!! YES I'll do that next week or the week after and post some pics when done. Then I'll have to finish the design of the insert (almost done), print it on a white decal, put it on and protect it with waterproof warnish ... I have found a brand that can be cooked in a kitchen oven and will perfectly do the job.
  12. Thanks for the link That makes me think that I must shoot a video next time I'll solder feets on a dial
  13. My bad ... my apologises BTW ... those 2 watches are only 2pics of the same replica that my father in law bought during the 90ies (check the scratch on the insert close to the "30" on the right) 1rst pic was taken when he pass it to me saying "please see what you could do with that" 2nd pic was taken before passing it back to him some weeks later (of course I didn't just rebrushed and repolished ... I reworked the lugs, crownguards, crown, Solid endlinks, polished the crystal and cyclop, serviced the movement, etc ...)
  14. Speaking about gens vs replicas and about watches deserving or not some hard work or money ... may I ask you : "Which one of those watches below would you choose to keep and wear if both were given to you ?"
  15. I do not agree with this if I may. As you fell OK wearing a replica you just should just consider it as a watch, replica or not replica. And all watches deserve respect IMHO. So if I were you I would do the job the best I can ... the redo all the brushing. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  16. I hope you have a friend that can do that, as hiring a rofessional to fix an AP replica is off the limits IMHO ... well ... considering the prixe of a Gen AP ROO it could still be a good deal I've had a look at your bracelet and it seems to be brushed finish. So you just have to finely sand the protruding solder flat with 500/800/1000 grade paper, then you redo the brush finish ... all over the bracelet side of course so that all the links have the same finish. To redo the brushed parts on vintage Rolex bracelets I use soft art sanding blocks ... I don't exactly remember which grade but I can tell you and post a pic when I come back home this evening.
  17. 100% agree with Andy. If you don't already have a pen-torch and have never used silver solder then use the epoxy. Silver solder is not that difficult to use but it could need some training ... you can look at tutorials on YouTube to check before trying That's the way I solder dial feet's What you need is some silver solder paste with borax, a pen-torch and a brick as a working support (I use a junk piece of marble) Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  18. Definitely a good advice. In place of the metalised epoxy he can use some silver solder paste and a pen-torch ... when polished the silver solder will become almost invisible. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  19. Hi Johnnie and Hi alls Today something came to me from Britain sent by a great member here and a real gentleman ... Johnnie. Johnnie sent me not only an beautiful watch but a complete set with box and guarantee card ... incredible So le's go to the unboxing pics I couldn't wait to see it ticking so I've set the day, the date and wound it ... and it ticks So now it's up to me to take care of it ... - redo some brushing and polish on the case - polish the crystal - find a nice strap to put on it - build a custom new bezel + bezel insert I'll do my best to make it look as if it was almost new then, of course, I'll enjoy wearing it. Thank you again Johnnie ... I already love that oldie and I hope it will love the old man wearing it (I was 18 when you bought it) So I will post here when all the work is finished but it could take weeks or months as making a custom bezel is not that easy. IMG_2015.MOV
  20. Before ordering you have to check what movement is inside and if it's possible to repair ... no need to crash or throw anything (watches or else) in the basket until you haven't tried to repair it.
  21. My opinion is "call a spade a spade" So let's call that watch what it is ... not an hommage but a replica. Nevertheless it's a watch and you need help. Those DG2813 movements seem to be hit or miss as some can work for years and some stop after some days If you want to replace it you could get a Miyota 2815, which is a direct swap as you can keep the dial and hands without modifying anything. But if you open the caseback and show us some close pics of the movement perhaps we could try to guess what's going wrong and if it is possible to repair. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  22. It's probably a paperclip-ring bezel so first thing you should check is if you have a 1 part or 2 parts assembly. By 2 parts I mean Bezel + Insert ... but should be a 1 part. If it's a 1 part you just have to push a 1 razor blade under it, taking care not to scratch the case, then push a 2nd one opposite to the 1st one. Then you should be able to put a thin screwdriver under the bezel and make lever ... the bezel should pop off. If it's a 2 parts just remove the insert, taking care not to bend it, then you will see the paperclip-ring that maintain the bezel on the case. Just grip the spring with tweezers and pull it off. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  23. SOME GOOD NEWS !!! today I will receive the Seiko diver case First thing I'll do is to check if : - the date window doesn't comme across the rehaut and is not too much right positionned - the movement inner ring can be shaved enough to fit the quartz movement that came with the dial If everything is OK I'll make the dial plate blank again, shave it to the right diameter (should be about 26mm) and build my new pistacchio green dial. I'll open a new thread for that build but I'll put a link here.
  24. You're welcome guys n France we say "cent fois sur le métier remettez votre ouvrage" ... best translation being "the fourth time is the charm" IMHO, so just do it and do it again and some day ... bingo My first attempt at making a decal dial was January 2017, so 2 years ago Now that I fell really at ease with the process, I'm training for the next step which is ... silk-printing
  25. Some news about the casing of that dial I've had the opportunity to get a 2625-001 Seiko case, which is not in really good condition. But just have a look at that comparison pic below ... it seems to be a good start case for a 980.016 hommage. I'll probably (certainly) have to redo all the dial making process as the rehaut opening is really short on the 2625, and the date window will be a little too close to the rehaut but if it's not under the rehaut I will live with that. Plus I'll probably build a custom "bakelite" bezel (in fact plexiglass with a printed underside). As I will redo the dial I have decided to change the color. I will make it pistacchio green and spray some really thin gold powder on the decal prior to varnishing. So if I succeed the dial should look matte in certain lighting conditions but sometimes there will be shiny gold spots
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