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manodeoro

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Everything posted by manodeoro

  1. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    My bad ... my apologises BTW ... those 2 watches are only 2pics of the same replica that my father in law bought during the 90ies (check the scratch on the insert close to the "30" on the right) 1rst pic was taken when he pass it to me saying "please see what you could do with that" 2nd pic was taken before passing it back to him some weeks later (of course I didn't just rebrushed and repolished ... I reworked the lugs, crownguards, crown, Solid endlinks, polished the crystal and cyclop, serviced the movement, etc ...)
  2. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    Speaking about gens vs replicas and about watches deserving or not some hard work or money ... may I ask you : "Which one of those watches below would you choose to keep and wear if both were given to you ?"
  3. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    I do not agree with this if I may. As you fell OK wearing a replica you just should just consider it as a watch, replica or not replica. And all watches deserve respect IMHO. So if I were you I would do the job the best I can ... the redo all the brushing. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  4. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    I hope you have a friend that can do that, as hiring a rofessional to fix an AP replica is off the limits IMHO ... well ... considering the prixe of a Gen AP ROO it could still be a good deal I've had a look at your bracelet and it seems to be brushed finish. So you just have to finely sand the protruding solder flat with 500/800/1000 grade paper, then you redo the brush finish ... all over the bracelet side of course so that all the links have the same finish. To redo the brushed parts on vintage Rolex bracelets I use soft art sanding blocks ... I don't exactly remember which grade but I can tell you and post a pic when I come back home this evening.
  5. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    100% agree with Andy. If you don't already have a pen-torch and have never used silver solder then use the epoxy. Silver solder is not that difficult to use but it could need some training ... you can look at tutorials on YouTube to check before trying That's the way I solder dial feet's What you need is some silver solder paste with borax, a pen-torch and a brick as a working support (I use a junk piece of marble) Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. manodeoro

    How do I fix my watch bracelet?

    Definitely a good advice. In place of the metalised epoxy he can use some silver solder paste and a pen-torch ... when polished the silver solder will become almost invisible. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    Hi Johnnie and Hi alls Today something came to me from Britain sent by a great member here and a real gentleman ... Johnnie. Johnnie sent me not only an beautiful watch but a complete set with box and guarantee card ... incredible So le's go to the unboxing pics I couldn't wait to see it ticking so I've set the day, the date and wound it ... and it ticks So now it's up to me to take care of it ... - redo some brushing and polish on the case - polish the crystal - find a nice strap to put on it - build a custom new bezel + bezel insert I'll do my best to make it look as if it was almost new then, of course, I'll enjoy wearing it. Thank you again Johnnie ... I already love that oldie and I hope it will love the old man wearing it (I was 18 when you bought it) So I will post here when all the work is finished but it could take weeks or months as making a custom bezel is not that easy. IMG_2015.MOV
  8. manodeoro

    DG2813 movement

    Before ordering you have to check what movement is inside and if it's possible to repair ... no need to crash or throw anything (watches or else) in the basket until you haven't tried to repair it.
  9. manodeoro

    DG2813 movement

    My opinion is "call a spade a spade" So let's call that watch what it is ... not an hommage but a replica. Nevertheless it's a watch and you need help. Those DG2813 movements seem to be hit or miss as some can work for years and some stop after some days If you want to replace it you could get a Miyota 2815, which is a direct swap as you can keep the dial and hands without modifying anything. But if you open the caseback and show us some close pics of the movement perhaps we could try to guess what's going wrong and if it is possible to repair. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. It's probably a paperclip-ring bezel so first thing you should check is if you have a 1 part or 2 parts assembly. By 2 parts I mean Bezel + Insert ... but should be a 1 part. If it's a 1 part you just have to push a 1 razor blade under it, taking care not to scratch the case, then push a 2nd one opposite to the 1st one. Then you should be able to put a thin screwdriver under the bezel and make lever ... the bezel should pop off. If it's a 2 parts just remove the insert, taking care not to bend it, then you will see the paperclip-ring that maintain the bezel on the case. Just grip the spring with tweezers and pull it off. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. Hi guys … I had promised that I would make a « custom decal dial tutorial » on another thread there So here we are … There are many variations of decal dials, the best IMHO being the « negative gilt » dials which gives the best results. The process I’m showing today is aabout how to make a dial with black printings on a one color background. I had a cheap quartz diver waiting in my drawers so I’ll make a Heuer diver hommage based on the 980.016 model (quartz one too). DAY 01 : It’s 4:30 AM (I’m an early bird) and I have 2 hours to kill before a business trip to Paris (I’m French) so I decide I have time enough to begin. The first part of the process is to prepare the dial plate : - stripped it, removing all the lumes bars and dots - soaked the dial for some minutes in acetone to remove the paint - filled the tiny holes where the bars and dots go with cyanolite glue - sand everything flat I sand with 800 and don’t try to get a smooth surface as I want the paint to adhere perfectly to thedial plate. Here is the result … Then I want to spray paint. I make a tube with some painter’s tape, from a « curve » with it and place it on a plastic bottle cap. I want it curved so that I can stick the dial on it without any risk of bstructing the center hole or the date window of the dial plate. So I stick the sanded dial plate on the tape tube. As you can guess from the pic below … that’s not the first time a make an orange dial. Then I place the bottle cap and dial plate on a paper sheet and spray paint in orange. I use street art spray paint as it is « water resistant ». As you can see on the next pic, I don’t try to get a smooth surface, or even to perfectly cover the dial plate at first. I will let this coat dry, sand it with 2000 grade, then spray 1 or 2 coats until I get a perfectly smooth orange dial plate, ready for receiving a decal. So I place the bottle cap and dial under a shooter glass and will let it dry for about 24 hours before sanding and spraying the second paint coat. The 24 hours drying time is really important (though it could depend on the paint you use). The paint I use looks perfectly dry after about 5 hours but if you spray the second coat without waiting enough, that coat won’t perfectly adhere to the first and you could get a granular surface like an orange peel. And here is the dial waiting under the shooter glass. On the right is a « negative gilt » dial (third and last matte varnish coat) On the background there are two Raketa 2609 movements from the 70ies, quietly (really loudly to be honest) ticking for test after I‘ve recently serviced them. Now it’s 5:45 AM so I will have a and go to the train station. I’ll sand the dial plate this evening and spray the second paint coat tomorrow morning. Then sand it in the evening and spray the third coat (if needed) the day after. DAY 02 - DAY 03 : So here's what you get after the first paint coat … doesn't look really good but no matter as there's still some work to do to get a better result. And here's what you get after 3 coats of paint, each one sanded with 2000 grade, to get a perfect finish, flat and smooth. Now the dial plate is eady to receive the decal. DAY 03 : I won’t explain anything about Photoshop and Illustrator here … I’ll only explain how I print my decals. One thing really important, from my own experience, is the definition of the design. I’ve tried several, from 1200ppp to 6000pp and the best results I’ve got on printing decal sheets were with a 4000ppp definition. So all my dial designs are done in 4000ppp. The result is really BIG files … for example an A6 template with 12 dial desings ready to print is about 800Mo. As that dial is black printing only I open it with Photoshop and let the softwre (so ont the printer) deal with the printing quality. My printer is an old Epson Picturemate with a 1200 maximum definition. As the good quality decal sheets are not cheap and as I’m a « skinflint» I often print on A7 sheets … 6 dial designs on one sheet. When printed you should let it dry for about 4 hours then spray 2 really thin coats of matte varnish, letting each coat dry for at least 12 hours (24 hours is better). DAY 04 - DAY 05 : 2 days of speed-hiking with my wife so I didn’t worked on that tuto. You can check on the net what speed-hiking is, but to summarize it’s hiking as fast as you can with really light backpacks, trying not to run (or only short runs). On a good day you can walk 5 to 6 miles/hour … when trained you can walk up to 6,5 miles/hour … and while I trained for my first 62 miles ultra I achieved to walk (no running) up to 6,85 miles/hour (11 km/heure). DAY 06 : Today is Monday 6:00 AM. It’s been 5 days since I begun that tutorial and … my legs ache and all my body is painful (see Day 04 - Day 05) The dial plate is ready and the decal sheet too. You can see that the decal sheet looks matte now. That is because I have sprayed 2 coats of matte varnish on it, to protect the inkjet ink while I’ll soak the decal in water. Of course if you print with a laser you won’t have to spray varnish as the laser inks are (almost) water resistant. First thing to do is to chose the best item on the decal sheet and cut it round. Then you are ready to go. On the next pic you can see all you need now : - dial plate … fixed on a foam board using the dial feets - decal dial … nicely cut round - tweezers - thin and smooth brush (mine’s a watercolor brush) - some « micro set » … or just vhite wine vinegar (it helps the decal to set on the dial plate) - cold water Now you put the decal in cold water and while it soaks you brush some micro-set (or white vinegar) on the dial plate. Then you put the decal on the dial plate. Here you can see why I prefer using clear decal sheets on coloured dial plates … because it’s much easier to « perfectly » positionate the decal, using the central hole and the date-window. When you’re happy with the position of your decal you use a paper tissue to absorb the excess of water. Do that carefully as you don’t want to move the decal on the plate. And here we are … everything worked fine while absorbing the water and the decal position is OK. I’ll let it dry for about 12 hours before I cut the central hole and the date window, before I proceed to the varnish finish. Still Day 06 but 7:00 PM The decal has dried for about 13 hours so now I can proceed on cutting the decal sheet That's what I do then I : - fix it back on the foam board - apply some « micro set » around the center hole, the date-window and the outer diameter - gently press with a paper tissue so that the decal is perfectly applied (no more «air bubbles) And I let dry for 3 hours more Evening … 10:00 PM Now the decal is « perfectly » applied and dried and ready for the finish Last pic for today is after spraying the first coat of glossy varnish I will let it dry for 12 hours, sand it with 2000 grade paper and apply the 2nd coat. DAY 07 : 20:00 AM … only 1 pic today just after finely sanding with 2000 grade the 2nd varnish coat I applied yesterday DAY 08 : Yesterday evening I applied the 3rd and final varnish coat after finelt sanding and cleaning And today I can show you the final result … and say I'm pretty happy That dial is so glossy it’not easy to get a good pic, even on close-up. May I say that me hpone is nit the best at shooting pics (just like me) and the actual dial is much much better that it looks on the pictures below. I hope that you liked that tutorial and that it could be helpfull to members who want to try to build their own watch dials. I’ll try to make better pics with a real camera and a better lens … next week of the week after, after luming the dial together with the hands. Then I will still have to get a case and rework it so that it could be a 980,016 lookalike. Some of you may wonder how much time did I spend to make that dial. It took 8 days to achieve the all process but I spent only 1 hour the first day then only from 15mnm to 5mn the days after. So, apart from the design work on Illustrator and Photoshop (which took me hours), I would say that the whole process is about 2 to 3 hours. I must say that it's not my first try at dial making and I've trained for 2 years now. So if you want to try you should consider spending a few more hours but it's really worth the time spent as at the end you get your unique DIY dial.
  12. SOME GOOD NEWS !!! today I will receive the Seiko diver case First thing I'll do is to check if : - the date window doesn't comme across the rehaut and is not too much right positionned - the movement inner ring can be shaved enough to fit the quartz movement that came with the dial If everything is OK I'll make the dial plate blank again, shave it to the right diameter (should be about 26mm) and build my new pistacchio green dial. I'll open a new thread for that build but I'll put a link here.
  13. You're welcome guys n France we say "cent fois sur le métier remettez votre ouvrage" ... best translation being "the fourth time is the charm" IMHO, so just do it and do it again and some day ... bingo My first attempt at making a decal dial was January 2017, so 2 years ago Now that I fell really at ease with the process, I'm training for the next step which is ... silk-printing
  14. Some news about the casing of that dial I've had the opportunity to get a 2625-001 Seiko case, which is not in really good condition. But just have a look at that comparison pic below ... it seems to be a good start case for a 980.016 hommage. I'll probably (certainly) have to redo all the dial making process as the rehaut opening is really short on the 2625, and the date window will be a little too close to the rehaut but if it's not under the rehaut I will live with that. Plus I'll probably build a custom "bakelite" bezel (in fact plexiglass with a printed underside). As I will redo the dial I have decided to change the color. I will make it pistacchio green and spray some really thin gold powder on the decal prior to varnishing. So if I succeed the dial should look matte in certain lighting conditions but sometimes there will be shiny gold spots
  15. manodeoro

    Revisiting an old hobby

    Great job BTW ... if you decide to have a slightly patinated sunburst dial, you can just add a "patina background" to your decal design as I did with the precision dial I showed you. Can't wait for the final result ... whatever you decide to do it will be great
  16. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    Thanks Johnnie I will let you know (ad other members too) how the things go ... on that thread if you don't mind
  17. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    Hi all, At first I felt a little embarassed by Johnnie's post but after some PMs with him, speaking about his kid sister, I now know that I can only accept the watch and do my best to give it a new life. It's a great responsability as now I feel I MUST achieve to build that new bezel ... so I'll do my best, add some "magic" if possible and I hope the "watch fairies" will come to help me in this task. I'll take great care of that watch, that's the least I can do to honor the memory of Johnnie's sister's, and post pics of the bezel building process and the final result on that thread (please don't be in a hurry as it could take weeks or months to achieve ... I have no idea). And as I already wrote to Johnnie, the watch will be on my wrist when finished but it will remain his ... or ours if he definitely want it to be mine too ... so whenever he feels the need to have it on his wrist, he just PM me and I'll ship it back to him. That's why I like that forum so much ... it's not just about watches and horology ... it's also about sharing and friendship, even with people you will probably never meet.
  18. manodeoro

    DG3804B

    Really nice GMT... seems the datewheel has nice serifs ... congrats. From my little experience (I have 3 of these) the DG3804B can be really reliable if you take care of it and it keeps the GMT hand pretty well synchronised. Just take care of not changing the date or adjust the GMT hand after 10h00 PM and before 2:00 AM and you could keep it for years. While building a watch with a 6497 you'll see that those "big" movements are pretty easy to work with, much more than DG2804Bs and DG2813s ... now waiting for your next thread
  19. manodeoro

    Oiling pallet pivots - would you ?

    914 of course !!! Sorry ... I use 9010 so often that every time I post about oils I automatically type "9010" (just like "8300" if I post about grease). unfortunately I cant edit my last post so if a moderator can do ...
  20. manodeoro

    Revisiting an old hobby

    I'm not certain it will work but those Montana colors spay paint are just magic http://www.mtncolors.com/ To redo the sunburst finish (soleillé in French) you can use a fiberglass pen ... just sharpen it as pointy as possible with an X-Acto then slowly proceed from center to outside, using a toothpic stucked in the center hole and a plastic ruler as a guide and turning the dial just 1 or 2 degrees each time you "draw a line". I've already done a sunburst dial using that method and it worked pretty well. Of course you MUST post some pics of the process
  21. manodeoro

    Revisiting an old hobby

    To get a white silver effect you could try that spray paint from Montana : MTN 94 Spray Paint - Transparent White (9RVS Air White) if the result is OK then you spray some clear semi-glossy varnish on. Subsidiary question : are the indexes removable or not ? Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  22. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    Lovely but looks bigger than the one Johnnie is working on. It has an internal rotating bezel (thus the 2 crowns) so I wouldn't buy for a bezel swap before asking the seller to give all specs. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
  23. manodeoro

    Oiling pallet pivots - would you ?

    no lubrication of the pallet pivot ... just a tiny drop of 9010 on the exit pallet (when in place) then pass 5 to 10 teeth of the escape wheel by oscillating the fork (using a clean thin watercolor brush that will only serve to this ...to avoid any risk of damaging the fork).
  24. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    "Capitale des Gaules" aka Lyon/France Below is a blueprint I did for the custom stainless steel bezel of my Jacinthe project. Still on the lathe but if the final result is OK and fit the watch case I'll post some pics and explain how it's been done. Of course I'll be glad to help you doing the same process for your Sealion if I can
  25. manodeoro

    Ingersoll sealion

    No problem Johnnie [emoji846] I'm still waiting for the custom steel bezel so I can't take pics at the moment. When I'll receive I'll put here some pics and the blueprints I produced for the bezel to be built. Cheers Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk
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