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Everything posted by manodeoro

  1. They used first silk-print method then pad-print method I guess. I've done test silk-printing but I still need to train a BIG lot. If you want to reprint a dial search for "sunnyscopa film-free waterslide decal paper" on the web. Design your dial with Photoshop or Illustrator, mirror print on a film-free decal paper and follow the instructions. Great method !!! Mark showed it on one of his tutos. I'm waiting for a gold 14000 Air-King dial that needs some repair (minute track has badly faded). I'll shoot some pics along the repair process and post it on the forum. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  2. Seeing the back of the movement I suppose it's a faux-chrono and the subdials are not working. Possibly a modified Hangzhou 2813. You could have a look at cousinsuk website and search the Chinese movements list for a movement with the same specs. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  3. It depends of your tap size ... 1.4/0.3 or 1.4/0.2 ? If I had to do that I would first redrill then tap, the difficulty being to drill perfectly centered. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  4. Hi Chase ... I just wanted to post there with a "thank you" but you've been too fast for me [emoji846] I will confirm if it IS or is NOT a spring bar tool but it probably is. It'll be cool to change bracelets and straps on my vintage watches with such a nice tool. I really love the multicoloured bakelite ... I'm even thinking about making a custom dial with assorted colours [emoji28] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  5. Not easy but still doable, even if the case is made of 904L s-steel. I would even say that the risk of oversanding is lower with 904L than 316L. But as I already wrote you need steady hands ... and of course there's no way back so first try must be the good one. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. BYW ... thought you were based in Germany Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  7. It'll be difficult to give you any opinion or advice without pics of the case ... so would you post some ? What I would do is to tape some high grade sand paper (1200 then 2000) on a dremel and proceed really slowly, low speed, to rework the shape until I get flat surfaces. Not easy but doable if you have steady hand. Then redo the brushing on the top of the lugs and the polish on the side parts. It won't be easy to get sharp edges but you can't achieve that you still can create tiny chamfers between polished and brushed sides ... I've done that and the result looked good. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  8. Hi buddy ... and welcome from France Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  9. 1000% [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  10. Welcome in that friendly forum [emoji846] Never forget that human being can be just like good wine ... aging makes them better. I'll enter my sixties in a few months and they'll be "roaring sixties" ... well, I hope so [emoji6] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. I recently got a nice set of dust covers [emoji1] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  12. If your assembly is midcase with rehaut / plexi / bezel then you could the method I use. 1 - measure the outer diameter of the rehaut and the inner diameter of the bezel. 2 - search on cousinsuk a plexi with the closest profile, inner diameter a little too small for the rehaut and outer diameter a little too large for the bezel. 3 - gently sand with 2000 grade the inside diameter of the plexi until you can press it on the rehaut with a tight fit 4 - remove the plexi and gently sand with 2000 grade the outer diameter of the plexi until you can press it inside the rehaut with a tight fit 5 - clean everything 6 - put a tiny bit of grease on the rehaut to help and press the plexi back 7 - put a tiny bit of grease on the bezel and press it over the plexi with a crystal press Using that method I got good results with even 6 ATM waterproofness. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. So ... I'll shoot some pics as I'll relume a gilt dial in August. What I do with such a dial is to first "draw" the oulines with a really "liquid" lume, using the thinest oiler I can get, and let dry. Then I use the "lume drawings" as surrounds to help while luming ... it works pretty well
  14. I just realised I do NOT need to make a tuto about luming as that one is PERFECT Just found it today but that's almost how I proceed ... the only difference is that I put 2 thinner layers of lume in the indexes. The viscosity of the lume mix in that video looks perfect in my opinion. About the hands you must notice he lume them on the underside !!! Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  15. Thanks Now I'm strugling to design the toner transfer as the bezel is only 4.8mm large ... I still have a lot of hours tp spend on that but it's 1000% worthy I just hope the laser printer will be able to print those 1.4mm letters and 1.2mm numbers
  16. You should prepare a very "thin" lume with water based medium and apply on several thin coats. I have some dials to relume next month so I'll take some pics on every step. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  17. BINGO !!! Johnnie, my friend, just look at this ... The Ingersoll SeaLion has a bezel that fits perfectly and rotate smoothly. I still have to remove the existing printing ... I'll use the Dremel as I've tried hand sanding without success Then I'll print the design on a color laser printer and transfer the toner in my kitchen oven So there is still some hours to spend on that beauty but the door is definitely open [emoji16] ...life is good and I love watchmaking Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  18. Hello I re-read your thread and you say you worked on a Miyota 8215 So I have 1 question ... In which position did you place the crown when you pulled the stem off your 2824-2 ? With a Miyota 8215 you do that with the crown on the HOUR setting position (3rd position). BUT with a 2824-2, Gen or clone, you should place the crown on the QUICK DATE setting position (2nd position). If you do that and lubricate the square part of the stem with a TINY bit of Moebius 8300 Grease then the stem will come in easily. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  19. Hi David If you want to take you chance at desassembling/reassembling the keyless works only fro mthe dial side, here's a link that could be really usefull. http://kronometric.org/article/eta/eta_keyless_assy.html It shows an ETA 2800 but the 2824-2 is about the same. Just read the HSL disassembling document to remove/put back the date wheel. Two points you should focus on : 1 - check twice that the stop lever is perfectly engaged on the clutch groove when you reassemble the keyless works 2 - take great care of the date corrector when putting back the minute train bridge WOW !!! I've just downloaded you pdf documents as they will be REALLY usefull. I've already taken my chance, with success, in disassembling/ressambling a 2824-2, shooting pics at every step, but you pdfs are so great and documented .... congratulations for the work you did there. I was thinking about taking parts of a 2840 swatch movement and putting them on a 2824-2 to make it a "low-beat" ... that way I could have a low beat ETA with holes on the mainplante for dil feet and movement tabs (swatch movements mainplates have no holes) ... your documents will be really helpfull for that purpose.
  20. Hi Johnnie [emoji846] Some good news about the SeaLion. First is that I have put my hands on a bezel that will fit the case with very few rework. Second is that I've tested the laser film-free decal method that Mark showed ... it works perfectly on polished metal and is crazy solid so it won't need any lacquer to protect it. This summer I'll modify and polish the bezel, redo the printing design according to the final dimensions and put it on the bezel. So now I'm 1000% certain I can achieve that repair [emoji16] ... life is good Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  21. @clockboy thanks for the link ... nevertheless I don't think I'd go that way for 2 reasons - $160 but "dials with batons are the most expensive as is a satin finish" so that one would certainly cost more because of the sunburst finish - almost all the reprintings are innacurate (wrong police, wrong positioning, etc ...) I'll ask M. Hulk about a refinishing process but I won't take no responsability if he goes that way. If it was my own watch I would a hundred times prefer to keep the original printings with the right police and serifs and try to make the scratches less visible than to have no more scratches but innacurate printings. The value of the watch has been, as @oldhippy already stated, considerably reduced. So it's now just a question of what makes the specific charm of a watch ... looking new or looking genuine ? Personnaly I agree with @praezis so I'll probably try the needle + paint way at first and see how it looks. Of course I'll use water-based silver paint and try on 1 scratch first and post here to ask for opinions before going further.
  22. Thanks anilv ... sounds like a great idea [emoji846] I had already thought about trying to mask the scratches by using water based silver paint but the thinnest of the brushes I've found is already too large. But a pin is thinner and won't absorb the paint so I can put very little amounts of paint so it won't spread around the scratches while I'll fill them. I can even try with one of those very thin and sharp needles used to sew the silk. Next week I'll buy a set of needles for silk and some silver paint and as soon as I have 2 or 3 hours of real free time (wife away [emoji6]) I'll take my chance with that method. Thanks again !!! BTW ... thought really tinny the scratches are noticeable in real because of the copper color ... but if filling them with silver paint is a success they will be almost invisible. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  23. That will scratch and remove the "soleillé" ( sunburst) pattern. The problem is that it's not just stains but real scratches ... really deep as one can even see the copper plate under the silver coating. Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  24. Rolex is well known for it's so-called "tool watches" but I never thought anybody would ever take this expression too literally and use an early 14000 as a hammer or an anvil [emoji849] I don't think I can do anything to repair so it will be just well cleaned and put back in it's case. That's too bad because apart from those scratches the dial is in really nice condition for a 26 years old one. Nevertheless ... If one of the members here has any idea and/or experience in taking care of such a mess ... advices are welcomed [emoji846] ... I knew I should have said NO when the Mr Hulk asked me if I could repair his watch ... [emoji16] Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk
  25. Thanks a lot guys ... I'll do some test and show the results. I really love that dial though it's pretty stained and scratched so I'll try first with Rodico, Q-tips and distilled water and see how it goes. There is no financial risk as I got it for cheap ($40 shipped) but those 1002 dials don't often show up on the net and are sold for much more, even if they are damaged ... plus I have a nice 5500 case that's waiting for a dial By the way ... did anyone of you ever drilled an ETA 2840 mainplate to make place for Rolex dial feets ? I'm asking because I have the case, the low beat ETA and a handset that could fit but I don't think I could ever cut the feets of a Beyeler Rolex dial
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