Leaderboard

Perhaps our new member "FeeSan" is our angel to get this topic started. Tensions in the forum seems to be brewing and perhaps it's time to have a constructive discussion where we see this forum going, what is its purpose and what to do with Trolls, Spammers and one-timers ...... if anything? Of course it's Marks forum and he decides what to do with it. He can even delete this thread if he thinks that an open discussion is not required / desired. That's all fine. Even if I get kicked off the forum for initiating this thread, that's also fine with me. My humble observations and suggestions; It seems that we get an increasing inflow of "new-members" who don't take the time & politeness to introduce themselves. They ask a question (under the right or wrong chapter), get an answer and thereafter just disappear. It seems that the forum is becoming more like a service-point where everybody can ask any of their watch questions for free. Clearly our moderator Oldhippy isn't happy with that, and I think a lot of other WRT-members either. Of course, it up to each and every forum member to answer such "new-member" or not, but it's in my opinion an one-way energy flow, often even without a "thank-you". If the forum decides not to become a free service point for every watch question and likes to keep itself reserved for serious WRT-members, who want to learn & discuss watch repair problems & skills, perhaps it could be an idea to higher the entry-threshold. As far as I can see, all what currently is required are a display-name, an email-address, password and a proof of not being a robot. I didn't want to register myself again, so I'm not sure if there are any other instructions / requirements for new the members such as the forum-wish to introduce themselves first? If a (partial) shifting of one-timers, Trolls & spammers is preferred, perhaps a time delay may work. It seems to me that the modern youngsters are seeking instant gratification and if they don't get it, they try somewhere else. To me, somebody who really likes to become a WRT-member, he/she has no problem with waiting 12 or 24 hrs for his/her application to be approve by a moderator. Of course this time-delay & approval can be automated if deemed required. As for the application and introduction; In my opinion there is certainly no need for an in depth introduction, personal details, credentials or anything like that. It would however be nice to know a which watch/clock-repair skill level the new member is, the geographic location (US / EU / Asia, so more specific answers can be given specific for the members area) and perhaps a few other basics questions (to be determined by forum / moderators / Mark) The prospect of having to wait 24 hrs and thereafter having to answer a few compulsory questions may discourage and lot of the one-times / Trolls & spammers. Anyway, I did not start this thread to say what needs to be done, that's up to Mark and perhaps the moderators. But I do hope that this thread will serve as starting point for a constructive & healthy discussion, with the intention to keep this great forum great. If I get scarified for this ....... so be it. For me: "If you want to move forward, you have to stick out your neck"

Hello there Endeavor. I don't believe we have ever interacted, but its very good you started this conversation. I agree with you on the topic I quoted from your post. I generally turn away from making blanket statements about why and how first timers/new members post a question. My default mode is to try to help, if I can, with whatever information is being requested. There are many posts I see that are reductive, tedious, and even humorous ! That doesn't mean the person is just looking for instant gratification--which, by the way, is not limited to younger people. I think that any forum will have the "casual lookers" that simply want to get help with a watch that fell on the floor, or that suddenly stopped working -never mind that they're often super-cheap watches with brand names I've never seen or heard of. The point is that they've found WRT and are interested in this forum. I joined because I needed help with a watch. I asked the question here and in several other forums--I wanted help fast and I didn't care where I got it from. I continued interacting with the members on WRT because they were willing to tolerate my naive, untrained questions and didn't give me attitude or condescending remarks intended to let me know how little I know about watch repair. I kept coming back and now, its been a few years I have been a member of WRT (though not yet a patron...). Sure, I've had questions from "first-time" posters where I spent time looking for an answer, only to have no acknowledgement of any kind from the person that asked it. I've also had great responses and even had people send me stuff in the mail as a show of gratitude. One member sent me a box of mince pies all the way from the UK when I admitted I didn't know what they were! If there needs to be some form of check point set up, perhaps the moderators can serve as the initial points of contact for someone interested? I think all the moderators here are fantastic and are usually the first one's to welcome a newcomer and try to offer assistance. J

By all means let people know, but large bold letters is the same as shouting at someone. It doesn't come over well.

Friendly forum????? She is obviously a young lady who has broken a prised possession, not a horologist or amateur repairer.

Personally I would leave it as it is.

If you do a google image search for, say, 'Longines 1920s cushion watch' it appears that a large array of different hand shapes were used for this style of watch. Difficult to therefore say what's original or best so this may come down to personal preference! Skimming through these images I did note this ... https://www.watchpatrol.net/listing/582719/ ... which is very similar to yours and uses the Breguet style for both hands. I reckon this looks pretty nice!

Two possibilities. 1. Dial plate has one or both feet undamaged. In which case the dial plate is hanging there loosely.You can check between the dial and main plate, you may see the feet or insert in a razor blade between dial and main plate , the feet, if intact, will stop the blade at a point, three mm. If both feet are there ,just wiggle out the dial. 2. The dial feet are broken.In which case, The dial is glued on at previous repair. Just cut through the glue with a razor blade to cut the dial loose.In such case the residual glue is a mess and can only be cleaned off with the main plate submergerd in solvent. One feet intact the other glued is just as a mess. Avoid forcibly wiggling the dial out, bends and gets damaged easy.

I would say its genuine. Seiko do make them. There are many photos on the web. Here is one very much like the one you have.

I have said this before and I will say it again - if anybody is spamming, being offensive or trolling or generally not following the forum rules then the "report post" function is the way to go. It is simply not possible for me to monitor and read every single post. I asked for moderators and literally one person put their hat in the ring other than oldhippy who was recommended. I am still open for mature members of the forum to be considered. Mods not only get greater powers to help with these issues but also get a say in how the forum is run. I am happy to take suggestions and I do try to keep the forum running smoothly ( especially with the technical side and security updates). I can understand your frustration but rant posts are not the way to go - perhaps contacting me via PM would be good. However, I'm not deleting this post as I'm interested to hear from other members as well on this subject. As for the issue of trolls - this is regrettably a side of the Internet which will not go away - that being said, if anybody joins the forum and is found to simply be trolling others then they should be reported and they WILL be banned. As for the issue of 'one hitters' in the q&a section - we have had a small discussion regarding this and I am working on a strategy. You're input above is along the lines of what I want to put in place whereby new members will not be able to post in the q&a until they have been upgraded. This may involve automation though so it won't be perfect. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Looking cool is the most important aspect to a young girl.......Does'nt come cheap either..Ive just spotted a nice pink Oniss 'Paris' number which retails at £400. PINK? Might buy one for myself

Hi Feesan, As stated above the watch case cant be repaired and would have to be replaced. I'm not familiar with the brand Oniss, but that's not surprising as I prefer older watches. A quick look at where I buy most of my watch parts and tools from and I can see they don't even list the brand Oniss, which is the case with a lot of fashion brand watches. If you can find a replacement case the movement could be swapped into the new case, but I don't think its likely you will be able to find a replacement watch case. This is usually the issue with fashion brand watches, they may look great but it near impossible to get pasts for the case or band if needed. But on the flip side if the movement breaks they can be usually replaced. As boring as it is, if you want a watch that can be repaired and kept working long term it really needs to be one with a metal case and lugs that will allow a generic watch strap fitted if the original one breaks. Ceramic watches look cool, but are easily damaged and cant be repaired unfortunately.

Hi, Other than a new case, nothing in way of fixing would yield a descent result. Fitting this movement in a non breakable case is neither certain nor an option unless sentimntal values. Best would be to avoid ceramics as you get a new watch. As for this if you chosse to, post on ebay for parts, there are buyers there. Regards

Here's the puller (more of a "separator"). Not sure if anyone still sells them, but if you see one you'll know what it is.

I have made them large and bold so that they have a meaning. Mark and other Mods have never said anything. At the moment we are all trying to come up with a way so people who are asking one question and getting an answer and then they disappear. We do not want that to happen.

I would consider the condition of the rest of the watch, if dial looks excellent , feet and overall good dial. That gets 60 % of the passing grade, next is how shiny is the movement is there max grade is 30% , the remainng 10% belngs to the case presumably SS.and the rest. I would invisig the reconditioned product , expenses and worth.If it is got potetials to be recnditioned and is worth it I would pay for good hands too. Regards

Mentioned as a source of spares for anyone working on an ST 96 movement and it does of course help our Asian friends.

If you do need any spares for the ST 96 dont go and buy separate components on line. I made the mistake of buying a setting lever for £12. Go on the bay and from India you can find numerous ST 96 movements all under various names Titus Oris Tissot or like yours Tressa to name a few. Bid £9.99 and there is a good chance no one else will bid. If they do, leave it and wait for the next one, probably only a few minutes. They all have of course, hideous repainted dials but nevertheless good for spares. And ermm should'nt shockproof be all one word? Not bad for a tenner post free. Heres one I purchase last week'

Unfortunately a new case is required.

Here is a link that should help you. http://www.ofrei.com/page441.html

Is this a modern replacement spring or a original spring? I'm attaching an image this is an original waltham spring and it's shaped different than a modern spring. So to hook into the steel barrels typically found on waltham watches ideally the mainspring should look like the image. The modern spring will just have a hole and it usually will never catch. Then if you look where the bend is you'll notice that the hole edge has a taper that is to wedge into the protruding part of the barrel. So you can try shoving your modern spring in but usually that will not work at the minimum you need to file the taper.

One feet may be intact and screwed down, the other feet broken. The other whole is almost 170 degrees around the other side. Give it a go leelemon, this movement is easy to work on, I have got all the parts you may need and will stay with you till last drop of blood.. Just save the dial, you will have a good runing watch.

Is there another screw hole around the other side? Is there not a screw in it either? Take a few pics around the edge of the movement, that may not be the dial screw hole.

Are you going to service/ clean the mvement? If you are, you can remove the train bridges and gears, at which point, you will see the feet end . Don,t forget to relaeas the power at ratchet wheel before removing the fork.

Dosn,t look glued, if the plate slides sideways or at all, it is free( not blued on) .free to be wiggled out. Chances of screws broken and tip of screws remaining in the holes to keep the dial firmly are very slim. Looks like all you got to do is wiggle the plate out ,EVENLY and easy.

In my case there's no files everything is done live. Although looking at your question it would be nice if we did have a standard audio file So you verify were getting the correct results.

one of the things really important when asking questions is to give a proper description of the problem? In other words I see that you took the battery out you put the battery back in it was running before and now it's not running? But you also indicated you are fixing a problem in the original question you didn't explain what you are doing? Then your photograph and your better description of what you did.. The photograph it appears to be a crown gasket has failed and rust is migrated down the stem.. The one plate screw in the photograph has the same discoloration like the stem.. This indicates that moisture has entered the movement. This very likely cause the original setting problem. Then no watch likes rust quartz watches are we way more sensitive. The gear train just has no power for anything that's going to cause a friction and that includes rusty pivots and the oil going bad. then the photograph of the seconds stop lever the part that goes into the clutch wheel doesn't look quite right in the photograph? It might just be an optical illusion in the photograph. So if you have a friend who is an expert on quartz watches it's time to visit your friend.. The other problem with quartz and electric watches are you need test equipment to figure out what the circuitry is doing whether it's working or not whether the current consumption is too high or whether the coil.is open because it got scratched or bumped.