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Here is an intro how i grinding the glass.

Vich Your investigation had me wondering, especially in this day and age when marketing primes over size content (have you noticed smaller sized packages in your grocery store) and product content . So I set out to see if Ronsonol has changed composition since their buyout of Zippo. In Canada, chemical manufacturers are required by law to put out a "Safety Data Sheet" which is used by firefighters and workplace safety supervisors and staff. I found the last version, dated in 2013: http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/Documents/86/865/8653/8653610_MSDS_EN_02_25_2016.pdf It doesn't list anything other than light petroleum distillate. I hasten to add, the Naphtha content in Ronsonol and Zippo appears to be the source of some controversy in the last years: http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/249662-naphtha-ronsonol-lighter-fluid-no-longer-contains-it/ https://www.dmt-nexus.me/forum/default.aspx?g=posts&t=26372 It is clear by the 2013 Safety Data Sheet (above) that Zippo in the US is the producer. I have compared this information with previous Safety Data sheets (pre Zippo buyout) http://www.ronson.com/en/Safety Data Sheet Ronson Lighter Fluid May 08.pdf http://www.local510.org/msds_sheets/Ronsonol_MSDS.pdf I did find this item which clarifies and provides a reasonable explanation (I do the same to my guitars when I work on them because Naphtha leaves no residue): 5.0 out of 5 starsRonsonol is now Zippo (Buyout)! Still OK for guitars? By Tech Geek Reviews TOP 1000 REVIEWER on March 29, 2015 Size: 12 oz.Color: Yellow Verified Purchase It won't say naphtha on the bottle anymore, as this is now associated with chemicals known to have harmful effects. (This is true of all solvents and hydrocarbons actually!). However, looking at the MSDS provided by Zippo, it appears to be consistent with other "naphtha" labeled products. Naphtha, as it turns out is just a generic term for many kinds of distillates of natural gas or petroleum, which have hydrocarbons of varying molecular weights. The distillated fraction is then classified by the molecular weight as light, heavy, etc and grouped accordingly. At the prices that lighter fluid has gone for historically, it is impossible that the fractions were very pure to begin with. (It is, after all, just lighter fluid, not some industrial or research grade product.) Therefore, while it may not have a re-assuring label, I believe this is safe to use as the previous version. In fact, there is no real proof that the formula actually changed. If someone knows differently (a real chemist for example), please speak up! I continue to use this on expensive guitars, including my Gibson Les Paul Standard and my American Fender Stratocaster, with nothing but great results. I would encourage everyone who uses this (or any cleaning product for that matter) on an expensive instrument to FIRST apply it to a CLEAN, soft rag (like an old t-shirt), rather than directly to the instrument itself. I have explained my opinions on this matter, but I don't qualify them as anything but opinions. Therefore, please use at your own risk. https://www.amazon.com/Ronson-Consumer-99063-12-Ounce-Ronsonol/dp/B0017X1NGO/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i Coleman lists it's camp fuel as 100% Naphta the chemical definition they use is Light Hydrotreated Distillate : Light Hydrotreated Distillate CAS NUMBER: 68410-97-9 Petroleum Distillate (Naphtha) TWA-400ppm 100.0 http://zenstoves.net/MSDS/Coleman.htm When you run the CAS number through the search engines it comes up as the same CAS number which appears in the 2013 Ronsonol Data Safety Sheet and the CAS lists the product as : Systematic Names Distillates (petroleum), light distillate hydrotreating process low-boiling Distillates (petroleum), light distillate hydrotreating process, low-boiling Distillates, petroleum, light distillate hydro Superlist Name Distillates, (petroleum), light distillate hydrotreating process, low-boiling https://chem.sis.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/68410-97-9 When you run a search on the CAS number and NAPHTHA the EXXON safety data sheet lists this CAS number as Naphtha: CAS Other Names No. 68410-97-9 Solvent naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated light naphthenic http://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/Chem-English/Files/Resources/nappar-6-product-safety-summary.pdf I hope this provides some additional information to all those interested.

Well I just came back from the consignment shop. Sometimes they have some nice pieces at the counter (Rolex, Omega, etc.) but today it was all newer Invictas. Biggest watches I've ever seen and they must have weighed a couple pounds too. Maybe they weren't selling because of their size though. I wear a Navitimer 806 daily and it doesn't really appear as large or ostentatious as it probably did in the 1950's and 60's. I think the "normal" watch size for a gentleman is probably around 40mm now. The older chronographs that I repair usually date from the 40's and 50's; with a case under 35mm I would consider them unisex in today's market. BTW I was shut out at the jewelry counter in the consignment shop. My wife an I dropped in looking pretty scruffy in cargo pants and sweats. Couldn't even get a glance cast our way before having to give up. Not that I wanted an immense Invicta but there were some pretty earrings there.

Turn that screw underneath, it should improve the situation. (the larger one in the center, not the small one)

I use something like this to handle small parts http://www.boley.de/en/shop/5382.stone-holder there are 3 sizes, and can be washed and use again, quite handy.

Yes, coffee is a strong enemy of me as well. If i dont drink then my hands are shaking and i fell asleep. So i drink more and more

It's the coffee that make my hands unsteady. But I cant function without it , after spending time In the US Navy. But that is a whole other story.

I have all three picker uppers. Rodico or rub-off or Blu-Tack on a piece of pegwood or a toothpick will do the same job, more or less. I have both brass and bronze tweezers, at the moment I prefer the brass, the bronze are a bit harder/stiffer and I like a light action. Easier for me to feel how hard I'm holding something. Preferences may and will vary with the user, phase of the moon, amount of adult beverages consumed the previous evening, amount of coffee consumed this morning, humidity, banging from construction work, etc.

the day and date watch settings related to hand position are a total different story, in fact, i don't think - D. le Carles book mentions it. vinn

Vintage Times Australia

now it's correct(ed) and back on wrist

Pip, welcome to the watch repair community, I recently finished a 7006 Seiko and as you can see from pics, I still have some hand work to do, also I have found by examining hand location at eye level, (looking across dial while rotating stem helps me see the hand clearance), keep trying!!!, like most of the operations of disassembly/reassembly, it takes a deft touch to get it right. In my over enthusiasm to complete assembly, you can see where I messed up, I never had hands properly fitted, my inexperience is showing! But in my defense, I don't do this every day and the thought process sometimes escapes me.

Hi George, thanks for the info and your great videos on Seiko 7T32 servicing. ? Adrian @ VTA, can you elaborate please.

Olivier, the movement comes out through the front, but first you must remove the bezel. To do this start be carefully pressing a single sided razor blade into the joint between the bezel and body, sometimes there is a very shallow notch to allow a blade easier access. Once you have lifted it slightly with a razor blade, use a Stanley blade, that is slightly thicker, to lift it a bit further. Once that is done, finish off with a case knife to prise the bezel off completely. By doing it is stages, there is less chance of damaging the mating surfaces of the case and bezel.

If the movement has been restored properly then it should look absolutely in mint condition. This shows its been restored by someone who knows what they are doing.

Does anyone have any info on these watches? I believe it's a marine pocket watch for timing from one point to another maybe. ive checked online and can't find much at all.

That will be good. If You used steel tweezer, that was the problem.

Welcome and hello.

To grind my Ellipsenstein shorter I mounted it in a pin wise. First, i have bent a 0.1mm soft copper sheet in half, put the jewel in it, then placed them in the wise and tightened. Then You could just place the table over the jewel or whatsoever.

So far I've found handling jewels with tweezers to be a challenge. In fact, I often use a jewel picker-upper - https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/jewel-picker-upper-with-silicone-tips because pinging jewels is no fun. The other thing that is helping me is to use a softer, less springy brass tweezer. Well dressed, of course. That and I think I'm just gaining a better touch using the tweezers, due to practice, ping, then more practice, then ping, etc.

Rodico might help. Are you sure you have the correct shape and size for the hole, some are oval others round.

I know the feeling...some nights I just can't go on and fall asleep on my keyboard!

Szbalogh, if it helps, here is the roller remover stump from my staking set. As you can see it's spring loaded, the spring pulling the conical base of the jaws down into the conical recess of the main housing, closing the jaws. To open the jaws you just press the protruding button at the base of the unit, pushing the jaws up and allowing them to open You insert the balance, release the button allowing the jaws to close, and install the whole lot into the die plate of the staking frame. You can then use whatever stake is most appropriate for the job in hand.

Thanks RyMoeller for the kind words, and also thanks for including my personal blog on your blog roll, was not expecting that!

Cheers Mates.. My apologies for late answer, have been lots of other things todo in the weekend.... But it seem we have a winner!! Congrats oldhippy!!! Next time you are in the sothern of Norway, you must lett me know. That is correct that have made a watch cleaning machine for as little as possibel. First I tok those two apart, and cut them like this: Then I made this to hook up the basket, but I used a 5 mm thread rod insted the original rod. Just some modifications on the drill stand, and fasten it to an wooden plate: And then just mount the rest: Live action: MOV_0042.mp4 I washed all the parts for my Antima in this during the weekend, workt very good..... Thank again mates....