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About Rafal

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  1. Im using this one and it seems to work fine, got it from cousinsuk. If you want a vintage one make sure that bit which catch cannon pinion is intact, sometimes its damaged and doesnt work well (it has to close evenly after lever is pressed). Its one of the safest tools for removing cannon pinions.
  2. I can recommend those: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/trays-watch-disassembly-assembly?code=B34426 very useful, can be stacked (there are special keys to keep a few in one piece), transparent lids, etc.
  3. I can recommend ikea desk with manual height regulation: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/desks/desk-computer-desks/skarsta-desk-sit-stand-white-spr-49084965/ works perfect even with standard top (its possible to attach custom top) max load is 50kg so you cant stand on it but it should be fine for work.
  4. Hi Dewey, Thanks for very informative web page, I came across it some time ago and find it very useful. If I may, I would suggest that you could write some info about topics omitted by many watchmakers books - like replacement of regulator arm (part press fitted to balance cock, used for adjustment, not other part used to block its movement) - common issue in vintage American watches - often rusty or broken. I never see info in any book or forum how to replace it for new one or for re-finish and how to put back and not brake it :). Im sure there is much more topics to add to the list. btw. I also think about buying a microscope, not decided yet what magnifications would work for me best.
  5. Hi Atkinson, I finally manage to take pictures for you: 2 end switches on left hand side are in ON position, ones form right hand side - first is in ON position and 2nd is in OFF state. Machine just stopped and red light is on, so it possible to lift bucket a bit without starting new cycle (easier to remove bucket). And close up picture: second set close up:
  6. Im sorry for late response, but I just got back home. At first glance your machine looks like re-wired or upgraded version, connector to transformer doesnt match mine setup. Also yours have 2 starting resistors where mine has only one (big green resistors which sliding part - it gives a kind of soft start for motors). Small motor next to transformer is a sync motor, it rotates with certain speed to measure time (when you use timer it will stop, to spin bucket for longer time), on same axis you have those disks with tooth's which move end switches on and off - one is connected to relay switch which is responsible for changing direction on which bucket spins, second end switch moves procedure forward - next stage/jar.
  7. Sometimes if you solution has too much elma and not enough water it will crate foam, Ive got that a few times. Also wave brakers should help with that.
  8. Machine goes on all 4 steps automaticaly, there is no need for manual overide (perfect condition ). Regarding timer - its only for first step - washing in watch cleaning solutions, next 2 steps are just for flushing cleaning solution and repeling water (as elma solution is water based). Timer only extends time for washing, in fact it stops another small engine which is timing whole process - when you remove cover and use timer you will notice when this thing stop moving. Timer is simple device which is wired in a way that it brakes circut when time is set, when it reach zero, circut is connected back. Before you burn motor which turns big wheel - please check lubrication as it require maintenance every 3 months according to elmas manual (I suppuse if you are professional watchamker and clean many watches...), thats include wheels, pilar and clutch (not sure if that is proper name for this knee like connection) - to big wheel is mounted rod for lifting bucket. step 2 and 3 take same time to finish, so when it stops on 3rd something mighte be also broken or blocking - all intervals when bucket spins are mechanically switched on and off by bronze disks with tooths. Also lower table where jars sit could have some issue with turning, when it start smoking it seems it has not enough power to move. If you have picture of inside it would help to spot any difference from my machine. I dont know if my description will help you or get it worst :).
  9. here is a link, it seems to work: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=18171 but its diagaram for RM-90 not for this machine. Regardng manual, Elma says they have only one page german manual, Im not at home at this moment and dont have access to it, but you can get in touch with Elma support (on their website), just fill in info they need in contact form, serial number etc. and ask for manual. They are helpful, but dont have much about this devices. Regarding smoke form your machine, do you now on which step it does it? Fist I would check heater which is last step (one without a jar), it can be disconected if you want - cable which gos down in one of pilars - there is small junction with screws. My machine is generaly working, but for some reason its out of sync and dont lift bucket when it suppouse to - this can be overided manually so I still can use it, I dont know how to fix it, all automation is semi mechancal/electrical.... Rafal
  10. They look great, cant see much difference from those restoration companies dials. Nice progress with your printing. Thanks for answering question about stem, South Bend 12s are good for casing as wrist watches as they have swiss type of stem, other sizes are more difficult.
  11. nice work, company name a little bit off center:) but still looks great. I see thats 12s prepared to cased as wrist watch, would you mind to share how you approached stem installation to wrist case? Originally inner circle with some graving wasnt painted, I wonder how would it look if you did the same. I collect only South Bend watches and thats interesting process for me in terms of restoring old dials to its original condition, as some of dial refinishes do the job but dont pay much attention to factory dials and use different fonts etc.
  12. I have early model of this automatic machine and there is motor to turn wheel which is changing baskets, its all mechanical, I mean wheel is turning and pushing some lever. I suppose there will be similar setup, as this machine seems to be the same except some more modern electronics inside.
  13. I have both sticks indian and german, and I can see the difference. German ones are smooth and no particles failing from them, indian seems to be different, not so smooth and some small bits of wood comming off them. Im sure that paying more for german ones is worth as it save a lot of issues when this tiny bits of wood stick to your table or movement. Same is with bigger pieces of pithwood. Sticks vs. round ones - both are needed for different purposes, sticks for cleaning small or hard to reach places and softer round ones or made of core pith wood are for pivots and other delicate parts.
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