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Sunny day here in Berlin... A perfect weather to show off my pick for today...

I can see ETABLISSEMENT MIROY FRERES DE PARIS and Vincenti & Co

New to the forum but have been a lurker of the video's for a while. Great stuff! Have been a watch buyer/seller/collector/crazy horologist for years starting mostly with Seiko dive watches and chronos with a few Rolex / Breitlings thrown in. Lately have been regressing back to the Seiko stuff and wanting to get into servicing and repairing them. Unfortunately I live in a horological wasteland so most of my watch needs are done via the internet. Am about ready to retire and have started picking up the tools needed to do the work. Looking forward it! Some of the current collection here: http://pbase.com/tcartpilot/watches

yes, but sparingly, like a small dot on each pin, I let set overnight in a clothespin, make sure assembly is level with weight, just like factory, now I won't guarantee it will work for you, but pretty sure the tolerances for weight assm should be able handle a few dots of glue, let us know what happens. Dave

I have a jewel hole gauge and a pivot gauge similar to these: The problem is that these are VERY expensive tools. You can also measure the pivot using a micrometer. You will need a jewel with a hole slightly larger than the pivot. Of course you also need to know the measurement of the outside diameter of the jewel in order to make sure it can be fit into the plate or chaton. You may need to ream the hole to a larger size. You will need a jeweling set for reaming and pushing in the new jewel. Are you certain that the jewel is friction fit??

I had to look this one up for you put a decimal point the two numbers and that will give you the length of the pendulum so it should be 7. 2inches. No wonder the bottom has been opened up that is a long one.

It is an airplane. My two real passions, watches and antique aviation. My 1941 Taylorcraft I restored a few years ago.

As long as the balance is removed from the cock and placed on a work surface which allows the pivot/roller table clearance it should be easy enough to adjust. You would need to poise the balance of course. Other Rolex with the microstella doesn't need poising as you can dial in the amount of turns quite accurately with the built in scale on the tool. Anil

The second part of the video is finally ready: Enjoy... The third and final part will be uploaded in a few days.

Right on, this is the 2nd or 3rd posting in a short time where people assumes Asian copies can interchange parts with the original, and buy parts without prior research before purchase.

Hmm... Untested.....? ah--OK if you like. Why would the motor-oil stop the watch--If it works when first done, It'll continue to work--A stoppage would Not be due to oil degradation.... Motor-oil has to put up with very much harsher conditions than found in any timepiece, much higher pressures and temperatures... It doesn't appreciably thicken or degrade at the extreme temperatures found in vehicle engines such as the ring-land area or the extreme shear etc found on turbo spindles or main/big-end bearings etc, and doesn't appreciably evaporate, (Unlike 9010 watch-oil which contains volatiles such as alcohols) good synthetics don't carbonise either like the old mineral-base motor-oils, showing their inherent Stability. --Why should a good synthetic motor-oil complete with its integral anti-wear package cause an issue in a fairly temperature stable environment shielded from dust and contamination--such as found inside a watch? Only issue I think of, (Maybe a non-issue as it offers less drag)--Its somewhat Thinner/lighter in viscosity than Moebius. The two Accutrons I did about ten years ago and with Mobil-1, 5-W40 synthetic are still running fine but as mentioned I do intend to service them in the next month or so, as by any stretch they are well overdue for service.

Never seen that before. But sometime is a first time for everything? i guess you could push some new pins in? Stainless steel pins. But i think you would need a staking tool. Have a few of those but i reckon you would be better of buying a new or som movements from the watchcollector on Ebay.

Glad to have got myself one of these midsizes, bring some color into the summer! Did the 30 mins overhaul buffing out most scratches, movement has poor amplitude but I don't have time for that right now.

Wearing the only watch I have that runs. Just bought it last week.

On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France! I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.

A Transglobe pseudo diver today.

Feeling nostalgic today, oldie but a goodie, Hampden model 400 circa 1925 or so, in a Dueber gf hinged case, one of my nicest 'old' winder watches. Gotta get this one a leather strap, bracelet is a bit flimsy.

So today I went with this one... a Seiko 7T32-6N10 that I restored to it's former glory. It is a pretty hefty watch, quite heavy and bulky.

Actually funny you mention that coz thats what i just did...sadly noticed the balance was mangled but luckily i got more parts coming soon On a brighter note two new watches freshly finished today. The Junghans has taken about two months to perfect but its worth it because there's no point saying chronometer on the dial if the movements not up to scratch. The Tissot was thrown away in rubbish but i wasn't put off by the damaged casing and broken movement it was worth the time and effort. Junghans J82/1 Chronometer - Serviced & repaired, balance rebuilt, hands polished and re lumed, dial refinished to original spec with new lume and hand polished indices, Italian made Ostrich strap ( super soft ). Tissot 28.5R-21 Automatic - Serviced & Repaired ,Dial Cleaned ,Hands cleaned, Rotor restored ( Dial markers were gone/moved before i cleaned her ) The pair ready to wear I have an unusual Orient watch now commanding my attention so im back off into the fray

I don't know what's going here on with all these Seiko! It's time to end it! SARY056, a real JDM. I totally love it, pimpadelic!

Cartier Basculante watch in it's pivot position. An unusual piece which can presumably be used a bed side clock alternative and also positioned with the glass face down when not wearing (for protection).

Quick fix on Philippines watch, got this from watchguy, finally got around to looking at it, broken winding rotor, looks like it just fell apart, think I paid more for shipping anyway checked overall movement 7s36a /cleaned brace, reblackened '60' at top with permanent marker, polished up crystal a bit and running good, like those blue dialed Seikos!

I found this Summit on ebay going for not much £ - just loved the look of it. The hands are beautifully blued. A clean+oil, new mainspring and strap, it's running well and looks great The movement is a 17J A Schild 1130, which would date it to 1955-60, but it looks more modern to me. Anyone heard of Summit ?

Case refurbishing is a lot of fun. Here's a new turtle that had ugly dents from the previous owner removing bezel and replacing crystal. I use pretty much the same materials and technique as Cad101, but do not have a real bench motor.

Now I don't blame the seller for this, but a glued on dial?!?, I knew it the moment I opened case, but was able to very carefully pry away dial with xacto blade. (thankfully cheap glue!) One mismatched 23 jewel in a 17j case! (BONUS), this is why I always look for case/movement/dial numbers or ask questions if pics are not clear. All three were listed parts and repair, so for $20USD + $6 ship, why not? The glued dial is running and the "TV looking" case is a 6309, (17J) in a 6349, (23j case), I think I will correct. Oh and found a phantom screw, not from movement, hanging out under balance, once removed, she started running. All in all not a bad weekend, two out of three runners and 23 jewel to boot! BTW it has badly handled hairspring, probably replace entire balance.

Yup - sounds like a broken mainspring. The other problem that occurs with winding is when the click is bust - winds and then winds down immediately - but yours sounds like a snapped mainspring.

If the crown ( Winder ) keeps going round and does not come to a stop then there is either no mainspring in the barrel or it has snapped. I would start by dismantling the winding wheels and then then remove the plate, get the mainspring barrel out, check inside to see what is going on with the spring. Quite a simple procedure but if you search online for " fitting a pocket watch mainspring " you will find several videos. There may even be one here. Let us know how you get on. Mike