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Alastair

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Alastair last won the day on August 2 2016

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About Alastair

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    vegoildiesel@yahoo.com

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  1. Accutron use these weirdos, let me find what size they are.....
  2. Hi--The fact you mention that the wheels are not interchangeable ddoesnt really surprise me. Nothing much does seem to be exactly the same. I dunno why they did that--Make a not exact clone, Ithought it would have been easier to make accurate copy.... Would you fancy repivoting this 3rd wheel I have? Beer tokens offered.....
  3. Well,--I had a lathe many years ago, Not a watchmakers one, but as you say it takes a lot of time and lots of bad language till you get it.... --Even then you never stop learning...
  4. I have a problem. Ive got this Slava Transistor watch--the one the Russians ripped off in the 60's of the American Bulova Accutron 214.... Its a fairly close match,-- visually they look identical, quite an achievement IMO... My issue is this. Its third wheel has a rusted off pivot, fairly common on the Accutron version due to moisture or batt leaks and there's fair evidence of a leak in this one.. The Accutron 3rd wheel wont fit--2nd Moscow Watch Co (Slava, Seconda, Vostock etc) in their infinite wisdom made their staff smaller in diameter than the Americans, no idea why... My only solutions as trying to find a correct good third for this mega-oddball are near impossible, are- 1/ machine down Accutron third wheel pivots.... 2/ Replace the jewels but dont know if plate holes are the same size and I dont have the equipment to deal with jewel replacement anyway. So--Anyone good with the watchmakers lathe fancy having a look?
  5. I'm looking for a reliable and reasonable Co/individual who can make and fit mineral crystals for three Omega cases I have. Two round, one square. My go-to guy unfortunately isnt doing it at the moment, Any ideas? Who do you use?
  6. According to how tight it is, sometimes the use of a stout tweezers grabbing whats left of the head will work.... Use the tweezers like a pair of pliers, grabbing the remains vertically and twisting....
  7. For the Alum thing, I use a trick.... Bung it all in an old glass Thermos flask overnight. Works a treat as it stays reasonably hot for hours.
  8. Good simple ideas like this appeal to my simple mind!
  9. Well I finally did it. Dug out the old Hamilton with its demised 500 movement and modified it--just a bit! but not with a 667 Hamilton to make 'Pacermatic' oh no, much more fun with a tuning-fork movement, still 'electric' and still a revolutionary movement, with that graceful seconds hand flow motion. Go Quartz?--You Must be joking! The original 500 movement had broken trip/contact wires, and try as I did, cant find any anywhere. Looks like they went unobtainium sometime last century! I recently got hold of a mens Accutron, I had thought was a 2180, but turned out to be the smaller 2301 so-called, ladies movement in the mens case with a substantial brass spacer-ring. This movement is just a fraction bigger than a British penny, runs at 480Hz with 240 tooth Index-wheel but unlike the other ladies Accutron this caliber has a seconds hand. I dismantled both watches. The coil was dead in the Accutron, so I sourced another complete working watch for £20--Bargain! I serviced the first movement then borrowed the coil from the worker fitted it, where it ran under a glass in its holder for a couple of weeks. I used the now coil-less worker movement as a template for my experiments. I examined the Hamilton movement ring. This part has two projections that serve to retain the battery overhanging the side of the 500 movement, so these would need to be removed. A small grinder took care of that. I now had a more or less round hole in the Hamilton spacer-ring, into which I hoped to fit the Accutron brass spacer. The Accutron spacer was just a little too big, so I reduced its external diameter a little until it fitted the Hamilton ring. I lined up the stem slots and roughly held in position with rodico. fitted the template movement in the middle then came the dial. Here I had a problem. The feet were exactly in line with the outer diameter of the Accutron movement and the inner diameter of Accutron spacer-ring--Bugger, they had to go, which is a shame as I had wanted to retain them, hoped to drill the spacer-ring to accept them, it was not to be! So,--Off they came and the dial feet stumps ground down flush. Again with Rodico (love that stuff!) held the dial to the combo spacer-ring then offered it all into the front case half. Snapped the back on and checked for position of stem hole in movement to case--Amazingly, it was a straight clear shot right into the movement, so I tried the Accutron stem, all good! Out it all came again, so cleaned everything and securely soldered both the spacer-rings together, making one solid part. I then fitted the running movement to the spacer combo after flux and excess solder removed, and reattached the dial with a small amount of double-sided tape, that strong very thin stuff. Only issue now was the hands. The original Hamilton ones are all too big for the Accutron movement, so until I find a solution, I took the original straight gold hands from the mens donor Accutron and cut them to size, fitted them and reassembled back to the case. If you didnt know what a Hamilton Ventura or Pacer is supposed to look like, I guess you wouldnt tell, Its not too bad. The stem proved a Lot easier than I first thought. I shortened the mens case stem and again surprisingly, the Hamilton crown fitted perfectly. Its running now and will take some pics when I strip it all out again to clean the case and crystal, but its nice to wear this frankenstein love-child of two arch rival American watch makers.... --It even has kept time more or less to the second too! Anyone any ideas how I can source or modify hands to fit the Accutron movement so to re gain its correct appearance?
  10. Stardrops Floor-Cleaner.... Providing its just brass/steel, gilt, nickel etc, this works well, contains a small amount of ammonia and various ionic and non-ionic serfactants, with a little pine-oil. Has sometimes the tendancy to 'blue' steel components or those coated with lacquer. Use in ultrasonic, a good squirt and at 50-80 degrees for 10 minutes. Rinse well (4-5 times) then into Alc. and back in ultrasonic to de-water and dry.
  11. Ive a few Chinese tools, Oilers for instance, Ive cleaned up a bit, shaped for specific tasks, they are fine. Oil-pots, again- cheapo Chinese doing the job, cant really go wrong, can they, Cheapo oil-pots, but with Moebius synthetic oils in 'em! Crystal-press, again a cheapo thing, might even be Indian, works well enough, I haven't broken it yet. I did have bad experience with Chinese watch screwdrivers, Those were utter garbage, seen harder copper wire... A*F screwdriver handles with Bergeon bits work out the most reasonable compromise rather than a full Bergeon set-up... --A*F bits tend to chip/wear/break a bit easier than the Bergeon I found.
  12. Personally I always oil both ends of the centre seconds pinion/wheel.... This part is most/more prone to corrosion if for some reason moisture gets in the case. This pinion/shaft is holding the seconds hand--which acts as a heatsink, therefore that shaft will be fractionally cooler than the rest of the bulk of the movement, the result is condensation usually at the pivots, it then rusts/seizes solid--Or in the case of Accutron 214 gets twisted right off on the chaton jewel side, but strangely the watch keeps on running quite often......
  13. Typical cheap cruddy poorly made fashion-watch with a 15 quid Myota movement, and a silly price-tag to boot!
  14. I only work on Tuning-Fork types, mainly Accutron.... The differences of the date mech of the 218 series relate to the day/date 2182 and the date only 2181/218D versions. they are fairly different too... Day-Date 2182 has the trip-spring with the hook that fits into pillar-plate, and abuts against a nipple, then onto date trip-arm, the date detent-spring is fitted After the date bridge is in place by threading it through the hole in the date-bridge, short end to middle of movement. 2181/218D has the date-trip spring thats threaded into/under the date bridge after the bridge is fitted.--Yup, Weird! If you strip the train on any 218x, during reassembly, leave the fourth wheel bridge off the bottom till the main bridge is fitted on top with all 4 wheels. This means there's only two wheels to locate the jewels, not three, (third locates anyway as its held by hack-lever.) Makes life so much easier and no need to poke around to locate the wheels, you dont want ever to touch the Index wheel with anything metal...
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