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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/16 in all areas

  1. Ive two Accutrons running on Mobil-1 for going on 10 years now.... --No joke, they really do have Mobil-1 5W40 fully synth Motor Oil on all the pivots. Since getting back into this hobby, I plan to strip/clean them, be interesting to see what they are like! They are still working and keeping good time--but they would regardless of oil and its condition....
    3 points
  2. Not sure on epilames or know much about them, apart from their extreme cost! Are they worth it?--Who knows, Not me thats for sure. I'm sure Moebius make and supply excellent oils, a billion watches cant be wrong! and they have the expertise and backing to make (But Do they actually make?) good oils specific for purpose--There's a Huge range they do isnt there, and All their premier oils are Lots of dosh!... --I suspect that they buy in good base-oils, and blend to the specific requirements. Does this warrant the cost of £90,000 a Gallon! (based on 2mL at around £20 for 9010 and 4.5L/UK gallon), personally I dont think so. They are going by the fact that 2mL of 9010 will do a thousand watches, not the fact it Costs them that much to actually Make and supply! Another thing in their favour--Swatch own them and a whole load of other watch oriented Co's so thats what they recommend to use in all the literature.... Also--I doubt that Moebius have the recorses, facilities and expertise of equivalent level of say, Exxon-Mobil for instance, whose business is just Oils with no vested interest in other mechanical devices such as watches..... As a sort of half-baked test Ive got a small ladies Seconda that is very dirty and currently doesnt run although is physically intact as far as I can see. Be interesting to see how well/poorly it will run with some Mobil-1, fully-synth 'New-Life' 0-W 40 in there. My only concern is the rather difficult looking shock-springs this tiny movement has, Ive never dealt with them so will have to see how to do those. They are a ring with three legs and a cut out in the bezel They look damned near impossible for an old duffer like me!.... The Kinematic Viscosity of this Mobil oil is 78.3 Cst at 40 deg C. The Kinematic Viscosity of Moebius 9010 is 120 Cst at 20 deg C It is well known that oils thicken on cooling but Ive no idea exactly how much the Mobil would thicken if measured at the same 20 degrees that Moebius quote for the 9010 I suspect the numbers may be similar with the Mobil being thinner due to having extreme cold-flow properties for arctic etc cold--something the Moebius issue a different oil blend for...... I
    2 points
  3. I said at the price I wouldn't have one of these as they have no "Hack" and don't have a manual wind facility . I thought for the money I could get something better. Well now I have to "EAT MY WORDS" A certain retailer was selling these with a 40% discount, so thought I would have one as people seem to hold these in high regard. These watches are excellently constructed the movement particularly well made, accurate and well regulated and I firmly believe would be worth every penny of the full retail price. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. You have to look at this and try not to laugh. My wife always told me I had a weird sense of humor. So do I.
    1 point
  5. No problem, in practice lift angle does not affect timegrapher readings.
    1 point
  6. Just now done some tinkering with a 7S26 movement. It was running very good but didn't have a great amplitud? But couldn't get it to run better? So sent it to the owner? That wore it for a day. He said it suddenly runs several minutes to fast. So took it back. Demagnitized it and it runs good for a few minutes and snowstorm and then runs good again. But all it needed was a little push on the hairspring between regulator and the movable stud . And it runs like a star? Wrong lift angle maybe. Should be 53 i think . They sure are tricky to adjust the Seiko movements?
    1 point
  7. Aha! Greetings to another bearded wachmaker!
    1 point
  8. From what I can see it looks to be an American chiming Long case.
    1 point
  9. Your scaring me prodding it like that with your driver I can see a pivot breaking. And matabog's correct your pivot is definitely on the wrong side of your pallet fork.
    1 point
  10. Wearing the only watch I have that runs. Just bought it last week.
    1 point
  11. Wearing a beater Tissot PR516 today. Is it a Visodate? or a Seastar? or PR516? Anilv
    1 point
  12. Greetings and welcome, you'll find out if your ambition outweighs your perseverance, (I mean that in the most positive way!!!) It's the most rewarding and sometimes frustratingly addictive 'hobby' ever invented. AND you've taken a step in the right direction by landing here, help/advice is always available. Dave
    1 point
  13. Despite what is often repeated like a mantra, do not count too much on magnetism to severely accelerate a modern Seiko movement. More likely an hairspring issue, however to tell more you would need to share timergrapher pictures here .
    1 point
  14. Greetings! Good folks here, and lots of fun.
    1 point
  15. On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France! I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.
    1 point
  16. Now looking better after I finished them. I used some 3mm ID aluminium tube and secured the tips in place with epoxy resin. Then finished off by covering the handles and part of the tips with heatshrink tubing. I'm well chuffed with the result. Hint: another alternative steel for the levers is to use a small allen keys ground into shape, and make some suitable handles.
    1 point
  17. Welcome aboard Jeremy, you should like it here!
    1 point
  18. Hello and a warm welcome to you. Look round have fun ask questions post pics.
    1 point
  19. Hello from me. You will find a lot of useful info on here. You mention a bushing machine if you mean one of those for rebushing clocks don't waste your money on such a tool, there's a far better way to rebush clocks.
    1 point
  20. I will look for the before photos. To remove dents in a case isn't difficult, it just requires patience. Go to your Hardware store and by som nice Ash dowels. Cut them down to usable lengths 4 to six inches . Round off the ends of the dowels into smooth shapes sort of like a baseball bat. Smooth the end down until its very smooth so you don't do any damage to case. Now using only your hands push the dowel down on a dent & twist over and over again. soon you will notice it is starting to go away. As I said slowly and carefully Twist Push. Keep checking to see you are not doing damage."(NO HAMMER" just kneading. You can experiment with different shapes and sizes. o see what works best for you. I have one with a pad on one end to keep from hurting my palm. Also make sure the case is on a hard smooth surface or you will engrave whats on that surface into your watch case. I have had great results doing it on four watches including a very small ladies Elgin Pocket watch.
    1 point
  21. Feeling nostalgic today, oldie but a goodie, Hampden model 400 circa 1925 or so, in a Dueber gf hinged case, one of my nicest 'old' winder watches. Gotta get this one a leather strap, bracelet is a bit flimsy.
    1 point
  22. Welcome to the forum! FYI: I sold my mainspring winder because I never used it. I learned by hand winding and its just easier for me to do it that way--always with gloves! JC
    1 point
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