Jump to content

Broaches


rogart63

Recommended Posts

Was thinking of getting some smoothing broaches for cleaning up the jewels in different movements with? But maybe it's not the proper tool for this? 

Is there an other better tool that i can stick in a jewels and remove the old oil from the walls inside a jewel? Or am i overdoing? It's difficult to  get down into a little jewel and cleaning it with pegwood. And i have seen some smoothing broaches in small sizes on Ebay and cousinsuk. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thought so to. But it's difficult to get the pegwood really sharp sometimes? So i was looking for something i could just put in the jewels and remove old oil or even pegwood that has been stuck inside? Found out with a little googling that bamboo sticks can be made sharper then pegwood. So i am going to see if i can find some of those. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was thinking of getting some smoothing broaches for cleaning up the jewels in different movements with? But maybe it's not the proper tool for this? 
Is there an other better tool that i can stick in a jewels and remove the old oil from the walls inside a jewel? Or am i overdoing? It's difficult to  get down into a little jewel and cleaning it with pegwood. And i have seen some smoothing broaches in small sizes on Ebay and cousinsuk. 

Hands up.. I've used a smooth broach to remove a stubborn bit of crud from a jewel hole but it's not an acceptable practice and is very risky. The problem is the last thing you want to be doing, is attempting to ream the hole but more problematic is the jewel being very hard. So if the broach isn't maintained absolutely vertical during the process, the jewel is almost certainly going to chip.
The problem you may encounter with bamboo is its a harder substance on its outer skin than pegwood. So it may give the impression of having a finer edge after shaping but will be far less pliable than pegwood when attempting to clean the jewel hole.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 


Hands up.. I've used a smooth broach to remove a stubborn bit of crud from a jewel hole but it's not an acceptable practice and is very risky. The problem is the last thing you want to be doing, is attempting to ream the hole but more problematic is the jewel being very hard. So if the broach isn't maintained absolutely vertical during the process, the jewel is almost certainly going to chip.
The problem you may encounter with bamboo is its a harder substance on its outer skin than pegwood. So it may give the impression of having a finer edge after shaping but will be far less pliable than pegwood when attempting to clean the jewel hole.

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
 

Bought some barbecue sticks at the store . the are sharp in one end. Can at least try and see how it works. No much money we talking a about 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Proper pegwood isn't exactly expensive either.  Sharpening is a bit tedious, since it's easy to break or bend the tip in tiny jewel holes. But you get the hang of it after a while. I sharpen my pegwood with a Chinese junk-grade hobby knife, which works perfectly fine for the purpose.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GJ01-Exacto-Knife-Kit-Set-For-Hobby-Scrapbooking-Crafts-Shop-CASE-RAZOR-NEW-/222517465560?hash=item33cf1311d8:g:-88AAOSwhQhY31jF

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Bought some barbecue sticks at the store . the are sharp in one end. Can at least try and see how it works. No much money we talking a about 

 

I don,t think cocktail sticks are good idea.They tend to break off at their tip which is a pain when inside a jewel. I recommend pegwood

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I personally use those extra small cleaning swabs you can get from Cousins, that I first dip in some isopropyl alcohol, to clean out jewel holes.

These particular swabs aren't like the loose packed large general 'cotton buds' you see on supermarket shelves (and that would distribute fibres around the watch and absorb too much alcohol); their small tightly packed formation seems to work well and I'm a big fan for general cleaning too as they're soft enough not to scratch and strong enough not to break.

Anyone with any experience of using these as well as pegwood I'd be grateful for comparison comments on. I'm willing to change if pegwood is a more recognised and superior approach! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

As an update, Mark used a smoothing broach on the Seiko Navigator restoration. I have always wondered about this and it was nice to see that the burnishing or cleaning of the jewels made a difference in the functioning of the watch. His vial reveals a set of 12 but I can't see the maker of the set. This is something I'd like to know as Mark always seems to have an excellent taste in tooling.

Dean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure you are correct especially since Mark does use a lot of Bergeon products but that container of 12 broaches he used in the Navigator video didn't look like a bergeon container. I have become a fan of Mark's to the point that I like to use the same tools he does. Over time, as I switched and tried tools he used, I found them delightfully better than what I had been using.
Dean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

On 11/3/2019 at 11:47 AM, deloidtoc said:

As an update, Mark used a smoothing broach on the Seiko Navigator restoration. I have always wondered about this and it was nice to see that the burnishing or cleaning of the jewels

Maybe Mark will comment.  I haven't seen the video, but I'm  guessing the use of a broach wasn't to burnish a jewel, unless it was something diamond charged as a typical hardened steel broach isn't as hard as the jewel material.

Edited by measuretwice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually you would never want to get in a jewel with a broach. The chances of cracking it are very high to almost certain. Pegwood only.

As for broaches I have a couple of sets of larger ones from Grobet that I got new (some years back) and are excellent. Also many old Bergeon sets, down to teeny tiny. Some colleagues bought new Bergeons cutting and smoothing a couple of years ago and the quality is fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have some AF broaches which are perfectly good, certainly for a keen hobbyist level. As per nickelsilver above, I wouldn't recommend putting them near a jewel, you only need to tilt it slightly to damage a jewel hole.

As I was taught in my previous life as a mechanic, never use a material harder than the material you're cleaning, the same applies here just on a smaller scale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Surely it depends on the clock , I only usually restore torsion clocks and I only use oil on mainspring ( small amount) but on the few so called normal pendulum clocks I have done I have used mainspring grease as there is more reserves of power than there is in a torsion clock so it is not so critical. Dell
    • https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/files?showfile=Venus/Venus 178.pdf&filename=Venus 178.pdf&dir=Technical Manuals&action=documents   The hour recorder is driven by the barrel and it will only stop if it is held by the hour recorder stop lever 8690. So I would check if this lever (powered by the spring 8691) is really holding the hour recorder in the "chrono off status". I haven't worked on a Venus 178 so far, but on an Omega 861 I chose 9501 grease for the friction spring as it's moving very slow at quite high tension.
    • All I do is use a fine marker (sharpie) to put the service date on the back cover, this way it can be removed with some IPA and does no permanent damage to the watch. I'm in two minds about the whole service marking thing, sometimes it's good/bad to see the markings on the watch case back as you know it's been worked on and vice versa. However, if I took my car in for a service and the mechanic scratched some code into the housing of my engine I wouldn't be too impressed. Hence, I think my sharpie solution is a reasonable compromise.
    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
×
×
  • Create New...