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  1. It actually wasn't so bad! The silicon grease trick that Poljot suggested worked a charm. I pressure tested the case and surprisingly it came out waterproof as well. Thank you for the silicone grease tip, it worked really well. And the case even passed a waterproof test! The irony of working on watches... there is just never enough time for every project.
  2. Hi everyone, I purchased some pre-mixed lume over the internet, and the seller sent a different brand then the one that I asked for and that I usually get. The one that I received is Augusta Labor, which I know is supposed to be good. However when I opened the bottle it's basically solid. Does anyone know if you are supposed to mix the lume with water first? The German one that I usually get is ready to use out of the bottle. The Augusta us unusable in this state. I've attached a photo. Thanks in advance for any tips.
  3. Thank you for the response Poljot. Nothing really special about the crown I guess, probably just me being lazy to look for a new one (and this one looks aesthetically great). I will try option 2 before I start the search, although to be honest I have in the past tried to do just that and been unsuccessful. I've also tried option 3 in the past and never had any luck with it. I always end up mangling the washer and am not happy with the result.
  4. Hi everyone, I couldn't find anything on the forum regarding this topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips on replacing non Rolex crowns gaskets, as I have an old Hamilton crown with a melted gasket that's otherwise in great aesthetic condition. I removed the melted gasket by letting the crown soak in ammonia overnight and cleaning the residue with pegwood. Now I'm not sure how to go about inserting a new gasket or if it's even possible? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  5. The movement is AS 1902/1903. I have attached a photo of the movement, one of the stem with the "indent" where the pin is supposed to attach, and one of the dial with the hole at 12 o'clock where the pin should pop out of. The gentleman on this link goes into detail about this type of hacking mechanism, but I'm still not sure how the pin should be shaped, ie. how it is supposed to attach to the stem and how much should it protrude out of the dial when hacking is on or off. https://www.nevadawatchrepair.com/glycine-airman-service.html
  6. It doesn't look that bad to me either. As the other poster said, try releasing the dial screws first, then press the dial down and hold it steady on all sides while screwing them back in. I find that there will always be some "deformation" on the sides of the dial opposite the screws. And if anything is bent, it would usually be the dial feet, not the dial itself.
  7. Hi everyone, I am putting together a Glycine Airman SST. This is the model with AS movement and a tiny "hacking" spring/pin on the movement ring that I know is supposed to "pop" through the dial when the stem is pulled out, thereby stopping the seconds hand. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, or general direction on attaching this spring/pin through (around?) the stem and through the dial? How far is the spring supposed to stick out the dial when the stem is pulled in? I'm really not sure as to the exact shape it's supposed to look like upon assembly. Any help is appreciated! I have atta
  8. Thank you both for the replies. HSL you are brilliant. I adjusted the hammer spring and it indeed works correctly now. The recorder hands do not move when the chrono is disengaged. Thank you very much for the help. And I apologize for the format of the photo.. I just realized my iPhone is taking photos with this strange new format.. I could have sworn it used to take photos in jpegs!
  9. Hi everyone, I just recently put back together a Valjoux 72, and the chrono start, stop and reset function work well. However, while the chrono is stopped, and the watch is being worn (ie being moved around on the wrist) the chrono hands move slightly. It doesn't have this issue when the watch is resting on my bench. Usually the minute and hour counter hands move, while the seconds hand does not. However, the last time I tried to wear the watch, I found all 3 chrono hands to have moved some. Sometimes by a few degrees, sometimes a little more. I don't think the hands are slipping because
  10. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been overtightened. Really don't know what is happening. Perhaps the thread is crossed? Is there any trick to getting it to close tight? What I do is to line up the "closed" symbol on the case with the "open" symbol on the case back, and then turn until the "closed" symbol on the case back is lined up with the symbol on the case. Unfortunately it just feels super loose..
  11. Hi everyone, I have an Enicar Sherpa Jet with an EPSA bayonet style case. I find that even when the "closed" lines match up the back is loose. Loose enough that I can turn the case back with my hands... I am not familiar with these watches or even super compressors. I am assuming that the back is not supposed to feel this loose, and perhaps the bayonet "tabs" are worn down so the case in not "locking in" when in the closed position, so to say. Someone suggested that I need to get a thick gasket for the back and this will help hold the case together. But I can't imagine that it should feel
  12. In case anyone has the same issue and reads this, I managed to get everything separated without damaging the insert by following a tip someone suggested in another forum. I ran everything in warm soapy water in the ultrasonic, and that seemed to agitate the insert enough I could stick a screwdriver under the insert and pry it off without damaging it. Then it was easy enough the separate the bezel and retainer.
  13. Hello fellow watch enthusiasts, I have an issue that I am hoping someone will have some input on. I have removed a bezel from a Submariner (16803) and surprisingly it came off with the retaining ring stuck to it. Now I don't know how to proceed with separating the bezel and retainer. The insert is brand new and I am reluctant to fiddle with it and damage it. I am assuming that the retaining ring was not held in place properly either because the crystal is aftermarket or the retainer has stretched/loosened. Now that it's stuck to the bezel I am at a loss of how to separate them witho
  14. Hi everyone, I have a (hopefully not too stupid) question. I have a cylinder escapement from a small carriage clock which someone had used glue on the collet to hold together. I dissolved the glue in acetone and am working on straightening the hairspring as it is bent. However now that the glue has dissolved, the collet will not hold the balance wheel. I am confused about what I should do next as this is a little above my experience. I know that I need to tighten the collet, but I am unsure of how to do so safely, or even if it should be done before the balance wheel goes in or after
  15. Thank you everyone for the tips (and charts/tech sheets)! I will go with the grease for the alarm then and treat the rest as I normally would.
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