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About deloidtoc

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  1. I'm sure you are correct especially since Mark does use a lot of Bergeon products but that container of 12 broaches he used in the Navigator video didn't look like a bergeon container. I have become a fan of Mark's to the point that I like to use the same tools he does. Over time, as I switched and tried tools he used, I found them delightfully better than what I had been using. Dean
  2. As an update, Mark used a smoothing broach on the Seiko Navigator restoration. I have always wondered about this and it was nice to see that the burnishing or cleaning of the jewels made a difference in the functioning of the watch. His vial reveals a set of 12 but I can't see the maker of the set. This is something I'd like to know as Mark always seems to have an excellent taste in tooling. Dean
  3. OK. I was watching TV and I started thinking about the problem when it suddenly hit me. I was playing back what I could recall and I remembered dropping the clutch one time. If you look at the pictures you can see that the clutch was placed upside down. Somehow I thought I picked it up correctly and popped it back in without thinking. Fatigue...
  4. I just finished two ETA 2824-2 watches (Stowa & Sinn)...no problems. I'm working on a third (Stowa) that was manhandled. There was a broken blued screw top and a complete screw loose in the watch. I'm not done going through the watch yet but the watch had an additional problem with keyless works. At position 1 (fully in) the winding wasn't catching well. At position 2 the winding was engaged (was supposed to be calendar set). I've removed and reinstalled all components and I cannot see a problem. The keyless works is isolated except with a connection to the barrel. I don't think I tested the previous two in this manner but I can't see how the isolation should make a difference. Before I fully clean and install all the components I was wondering what I am missing that is surely obvious. I have pics in the three stages of the stem settings attached. Thanks for your help.
  5. I am working on a Stowa watch that has a beefy bezel for the crystal. I'd like to get a fixed base bezel remover that won't damage the case, works on Diver's bezels, crystal bezels and snap back cases. Recommendations for the top of the line products would be appreciated. Pics of Stowa attached so need for something better than a case knife might be appreciated. Thanks!!!
  6. Do you know if the newer part#1564 was a mandatory upgrade or just an evolutionary change?
  7. This is what my driving wheel looks like. Yours is undoubtedly newer. I wonder why this was changed? Incidentally, I didn't drag this watch on fine sand. Those horrific scratches were there already.
  8. Thanks for the picture! I had the pin properly connected. Need the updated corrector like yours. Since you have pictures would you do me a favor of a shot with the date guard removed? In some shots my driving wheel looks different and I wonder if that was also updated.
  9. Old Hippy: Ultrasonic cleaning and Omega recommended lubrication. Vinn3: With "upset crown gear" do you mean when the crown gear is misaligned and you can't get the stem back in? Every part was removed, cleaned and lubricated. The stem works well in all 3 positions. Noirrac1j: Thanks for the pictures. My date corrector is the stainless steel type that I just found out from an NAWCC member has to be upgraded to your style. I think the problem is with this part. Incidentally. It was engaged properly. Chopin: lubricated as per Omega guidelines. I think the problem is with my old style and probably damaged date corrector.
  10. Just cleaned an Omega 564. Tried the quickset feature before replacing the dial but the date ring doesn't move far enough for the jumper to clear the next tooth. The ring looks fine and (unfortunately) this wasn't the initial problem with the watch (Stem fell out). Guidance? Tips on what common mistakes can be made in this area? Thanks
  11. I watched the Speedmaster crystal replacement video by mark (using the Robur press). I wish there was a video on the same topic but with front loading Omegas. I'm getting conflicting advice regarding the approach to the front loader Omegas with the tension ring. 1 I'm told to never place the crystal with the bezel attached to the case (mvt out of course) 2 I'm told that it's OK to press fit the crystal just as in the Speedmaster video 3 I'm told to approach this backwards by sliding the bezel onto the crystal and pushing it down most of the way with the tension ring removed. then, replace the tension ring and press the bezel down all the way. I'm hoping mark can jump in on this one but any advice would be appreciated. P.S. Yes, I know the generics generally can negatively impact the watch movement due to the fit. I'm using authentic Omega crystals.
  12. Thanks rogart63. I'll start searching today. I'm not highly concerned as I already know where the eccentrics are located and how to adjust the chrono finger and jumper as needed. A walkthrough is one way to keep me from over reaching and going too fast. I have made mistakes born from overconfidence.
  13. Knowing that they were essentially the same movement I had already done a page by page search and a system search for 1873 and all I found was Brian3's interesting post concerning the manufacturing of a part. I repeated the search just now and still come up empty handed. No walk through of the Omega 861 or Lemania 1873 that I can find. If I am somehow missing the thread would you please offer a link? Thanks!
  14. Sniping only prevents the let me peek and see who high the highest bidder may have gone (by bidding) as well as reducing the number of bids overall. high number of bidders is like blood in shark infested waters. If not for the above one could just bid once at their realistic highest bid anytime during the auction. I would be a bit leery of a second chance offer. I've never accepted one since shill bidding will never be controlled by e-bay. The high bidder bid on two separate items from the same seller and is listed as 85% bidding activity with that seller. That bidder could be an acquaintance of the seller who lives elsewhere and owes him/her a favor. Study the sales and completed items and you will see a ridiculous number of watches that are sold then relisted...again and again. clearly these were not real bidders. Lastly, while this wasn't a misspelling that is presently caught through the e-bay algorithm (most of the time). E bay buyers are quite shrewd and would easily have noted the discrepancy with the number of jewels. This shrewdness also becomes quite evident when there is a bargain watch or movement out there that no one is bidding on. When this happens there is usually a red flag on the item that might be difficult to discern. Good luck bidding in the minefield known as e-bay.
  15. Nothing at all? Such a popular watch and no walkthrough?
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