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Which Watch Have You Got Coming In The Mail ? Show Us !!!


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Eddie Stobart Chinese standard skeletonized movement at a 404 club price.

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These show up pretty often, and were made in huge numbers, so if you want a cheap pocket watch to play with, or spares for some other Chinsese standard movement watch, look out for these.

The quality is average to good, for this kind of mechanism.

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According to the seller, this is a non runner 21 jewel ETA 2892 based automatic. There were no pictures of the movement in the listing, only external views, so it might actually have a ball of string and half a sardine in it.

However since it was only a penny short of two quid, and since it has a rather interesting Saudi flag dial, I thought it was worth investigation. If it is as described, then I guess I've..won a watch, so to speak.

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I have a load of ebay £10's in the post to start playing with, but this one caught my eye last night having just been listed.

I paid way more than I should of (£35) but it didn't exactly break the bank, and it all looks ok so might just need a service 🙂

Why?..... It was a prop in Blitz & Pieces, Gary Sparrow's (Nicholas Lyndhurst) memorabilia shop in Goodnight Sweetheart. How awesome, I loved that show.

 

 

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On 1/31/2022 at 6:22 PM, Jimg1969 said:

Bought a lot for 16.00, looks to have a vintage bulova, a small accutron and one that looks to be a vintage mido multifort with a rectangle case. Should be here Thursday, can't wait.

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My lot arrived Thursday and include a running Mido with a 14k gold case. Was shocked,its also keeps good time. The seller even threw in a couple timex electronic and dynabeat watches.. score 

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Edited by Jimg1969
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A fairy early Swiss quartz (the late 1970s or early eighties artwork in the included instruction booklet state it runs at 32768 Hz, so that kind of dates it).

Generally I wouldn't pay much attention to a quartz watch, but this is Swiss made,  has the original box, warranty and instruction leaflet, and of course an irresistible blue dial. Limit International, in one form or another have been around since around 1912.

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3 hours ago, AndyHull said:

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A fairy early Swiss quartz (the late 1970s or early eighties artwork in the included instruction booklet state it runs at 32768 Hz, so that kind of dates it).

Generally I wouldn't pay much attention to a quartz watch, but this is Swiss made,  has the original box, warranty and instruction leaflet, and of course an irresistible blue dial. Limit International, in one form or another have been around since around 1912.

Have you got a picture of the movement Andy?

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8 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Have you got a picture of the movement Andy?

Nope. So its a bit of a lottery. However at the price I paid, I can't really be disappointed, no matter what is in it. I'll be happy if it works.

At a guess I would think it might be a Ronda of some sort, but it could be pretty much any early(ish) Swiss quartz.

I'll post pics of it when it arrives. Limit used a variety of different manufacturers over the years.

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An HMT Slim with a white dial and an HMT Chethan with a gold dial are on their way. Both are complete (with their respective case backs).

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The slim may have a loose crown, as it appears to be sticking out in some of the listing pictures, but that should be easy enough to remedy.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I hoped that the dirt would keep ppl away from the biding, but unfortunately is was not the case. £41 +P&P was my winning bid. I wanted one because I have NOS 1223 movements and I wanted to case one, I got no hands dial and case so far. I bought another one since my post above, that one was £65 +P&P.

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12 minutes ago, Tiny said:

Where do I start ?

The best is starting with watches that are recommended for beginners, check thread below. Ingersoll, Timex, Chinese are not recommended.

Then, you need a minimum of €50 of tools just for opening, closing cases, replace brands and crystals, do hands removal and refitting. Multiply by at least 4 times to get decently equipped for mov.t work, which needs a timegrapher. Often negleted is to mention that you need to setup your space to have excellent lightning, work at least a chest high unless you have superpowers or like to lose parts and be miserabile kneeling around on the floor.

If you are really serious about learning what is what and how things are properly done, consider enrolling the high quality training by our Host Mark Lovick at watchfix.com.

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I agree with all of the above, and would add magnification to the basic list. A x4 loop/loupe or an angle poise magnifier at the bare minimum. Things like tweezers, oils, screwdrivers and so on have their own threads here, where they have been discussed in great detail.

A lot of watch parts are pretty small, and I don't know about you, but my eyes 'aint quite as perfect as they once were.

Pocket watches are a good place to start, the parts are slightly larger.

TImex pin levers are fiddly, and can be a bit of a nightmare for a beginner. Ingersoll are a mixed bunch. Some of them are cheap pin lever movements, which can be as tricky as Timexes, others are fully jewelled and reasonable quality.

Chinese mechanical movements are such a variable mix in terms of quality, and can therefore be difficult to get running well, so they might also disappoint.

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  • 2 weeks later...

This one just showed up. I put a rally strap on it which looks closer to the Breitling it's based on. I'm curious how this ST 1901 movement will hold up. For $199 delivered it seems like a good price and it even has a sapphire crystal on the front.

 

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Edited by GuyMontag
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I have a 1968 Timex Viscount on its way. The crystal and crown are missing, but that shouldn't present too much of a challenge. Other than that, a whopping crop of dirt, and some missing lume, it looks to be complete. It has its case back.

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Naturally this came in at the low end of the 404 club price spectrum, but I'm pretty hopeful it will spruce up very nicely.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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A pale blue transparent day/date Swatch SUOW701 (W56/09), possibly the "Sea Rebel" design, with box for 0.99p

How could anyone resist?

Needs at minimum, a crystal (I have a pile of potential donors from a 404 club job lot), and a good clean and polish.

Edited by AndyHull
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    • Speaking of 404 reboot.... I have another category of watches... Those that I wished I had not gone above £4.04 when I bid for them!!! Someone probably should have also told me to stop before I put a new stem, crown, crystal, escape wheel and then adjusted the end shake on the escape wheel. This was all on watch that had a EB 8800 pin lever movement in a worn gold plated case with a snap on case back (basically everything I try to avoid!).  
    • The problem is that this movements were not produced with the modern level of standartization, there for parts from one didn't fit well to another, even if they may look the same. May be it doesn't concern the winding stems, but yet there are not spare parts for such movements in supply companies, not even clear calibre identification possible. And where calibre identification  is possible, there are no Ronda numbers for the balance staff or the winding stem for this calibers in the data bases.
    • That black stuff - I had similar things happen with evaporust!  In that case I understand the evaporust eats the iron oxide away without hurting the metal but it can leave behind a layer of carbon which was in the steel that got oxidised. I spent ages trying to perfect a cleaning regime with various different stages in jars in an ultrasonic bath. In the end I switched to washing all but the balance and pallet fork in IPA and gently brushing it with a small artists brush.  I would estimate that I have found an extra 20º of amplitude doing this! It also takes me no longer than waiting hanging over a tank to move stuff to the next jar If it is really bad then I have used the IPA as a prewash and go through my old routine
    • I thought is FHF. Sounds good to make winding stem by myself but I am not in watchmaking on this level. 😄
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