Jump to content

Hattori And Myota


Recommended Posts

I've fixed a couple of cheap quartz movements such as these, either when parts weren't needed or i could salvage them from another of the same movement. 

The only reasons to bother (unless just for fun) is if you don't have time to wait on a new replacement movement from a supplier, or if there's a specific reason you'd rather not disrupt the hands/dial. (which you'll have to do if you need to take apart the gear train.)

The reasons not to repair these are simply because, as far as I'm aware suppliers don't bother supplying the individual components, so in order to replace a damaged part you'd need a whole new movement anyway. 

It's just not worth in paid work, to try and save money on a movement that might be only a couple of pounds by spending 10's of extra minutes taking a movement apart in the time you could have just switched the old movement out. 

Edited by Ishima
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I never bothered with quartz watch repairs apart from fitting batteries couldn't stand them. If the cost of the repair is going to be more then the cost of the watch, that is a good enough reason not to repair it.

Unless the watch is of sentimental value to the customer - in that case, any watch is worth doing despite its value unless it's an impossible task.

I remember stripping and cleaning Miyota 2032 movements all the time. That was when we were charging £15 to service and the movement cost £6.50 or so to buy new. So it was worth the hour it took to strip and clean them.

ed0d0df39a3ce581c54e3945c12e15ae.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently serviced /repaired a Seiko 7T32 and although a successful conclusion it was pain and I did not enjoy the learning experience.. The parts are not only tiny they are very delicate and the replacement parts are very difficult to source. The cheaper movements in my option are not economical to repair just far better to replace the whole movement.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently serviced /repaired a Seiko 7T32 and although a successful conclusion it was pain and I did not enjoy the learning experience.. The parts are not only tiny they are very delicate and the replacement parts are very difficult to source. The cheaper movements in my option are not economical to repair just far better to replace the whole movement.

Not an easy movement to work on. Hats off to you.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I never bothered with quartz watch repairs apart from fitting batteries couldn't stand them. If the cost of the repair is going to be more then the cost of the watch, that is a good enough reason not to repair it.

 

There are quartz movements costing many hundreds, or which are simply unobtainable. Doing what is not economically convenient is one thing (certainly not very smart), working and learning on one's own time for the education and satisfaction is another. Also I think that dismissing a watch just because it has something more that just wheels and gears is snobbish and limiting.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled down and re-assembled a Seiko 7T62, interesting learning experience but what a pain trying to get those 4 magnetic rotors aligned to fit the bridge, little buggers would just not stand up straight.

 

Max

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are quartz movements costing many hundreds, or which are simply unobtainable. Doing what is not economically convenient is one thing (certainly not very smart), working and learning on one's own time for the education and satisfaction is another. Also I think that dismissing a watch just because it has something more that just wheels and gears is snobbish and limiting.

I never had my workshop geared up for quartz watch repairs. I did manual watches high grade stuff not cheap plastic rubbish. My main work was with antique clocks Longcase, bracket french that sort of work things that took days sometimes weeks to complete, there wasn't enough hours in a day to undertake every conceivable repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How times change Oldhippy. You had the best of times. How guys like Mark earn a living with watch repairs; today in a throw away society, one can only speculate.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Lol. People do not throw away Breitling Navitimers

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With quartz watches so cheap and usually reliable and very accurate (even the Chinese cheapy stuff use Miyota and Hattori movements) then it is, indeed, a throwaway society as Digginstony suggests.  That covers the vast majority of average working blokes who have a watch to wear to work.  Then there's that 10 or so % of the population that can afford real Omegas, etc...  Those watches you DON'T throw away...you fix 'em and watchmakers exist to service that market and the folks who still have much-loved old watches and family heirlooms. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did manual watches high grade stuff not cheap plastic rubbish.

That's a bit of a harsh sweeping statement. The inference is that all quartz movements are cheap rubbish, this is very far from the case, there are some beautifully engineered quartz movements around.

Here's an example, and there are many more.

post-124-0-83014700-1457544950_thumb.jpe

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think Stroppy was harsh. Pretty much on the ball. Don't forget Omega don't produce quartz watches now and their mechanical movements are now "In House " and you try getting replacement parts from them. Hopefully some enterprising company will start making generic replacements, to keep the independents going. The general trends I think, seems to be in house and everything has to come back to us. Could be wrong, hopefully I am. As regards the "Quartz " Even a no jewel movement has the potential to be as accurate as a well regulated mechanical, by a master regulator.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think Stroppy was harsh. Pretty much on the ball. Don't forget Omega don't produce quartz watches now and their mechanical movements are now "In House " and you try getting replacement parts from them. Hopefully some enterprising company will start making generic replacements, to keep the independents going. The general trends I think, seems to be in house and everything has to come back to us. Could be wrong, hopefully I am. As regards the "Quartz " Even a no jewel movement has the potential to be as accurate as a well regulated mechanical, by a master regulator.

Tony

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I think they were reacting to Old Hippy's opinion of quartz movements, not what you or I wrote.  As to quartz movements...my most accurate watches in my humble collection are all quartz with original buying prices from $100AU to $300.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you for this very practical advice @Jon on what to do and what not to be tempted to do. When you learn something you always make mistakes but with solid advice from someone with experience, mistakes can often be minimised. Very valuable and appreciated!
    • Did you notice in your technical documentation of 1970 it mentions this newfangled epilam stuff? One of the unfortunate problems of technical documentation is it does not magically update itself to the newest version and if it did it would disappear because it's restricted to Swatch group people only. Then there is the other problem of supplemental documentation. For instance in the late 50s in their lubrication guide they talk about epilam and practically everything in the watch. Then in the ever-changing thoughts of the day go to orally epilam adding the escapement components. But in the newest generation of stuff because epilam is less volatile solvents is more stable at room temperature they've gone back to epilam ing of the entire watch. It's actually in the last jar the cleaning machine with only a couple of things come out. Then we're back to a Problem of time again. Yes the reverser can come apart but ideally not to destroy it you would need the special tool which you do not have. A very long time ago I worked in a shop that was Omega authorized that I was looking forward to even seeing the special tool and he didn't have it. But yes it can come apart and you really don't want to do it. I'm attaching a working instruction which came from cousins hence notice on the corners we see where it came from.  If you look on page 19 they cover lubrication of the reverser wheels. Even if and I can't remember which one one of the technical documents I have actually shows the tools explains it can be disassembled and then basically says just dip it in the whatever and be done with it and don't disassembled.   8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf
    • That's a single lug / integrated strap design.  The Vostok Amphibia Neptune is another that springs to mind.  These can be fitted with swinging strap adaptors that allow a standard 18mm strap to be fitted.   Some people adapt steel bracelets to fit by removing the end links or spreading / bending the side pieces of a link to fit around the lug. I would imagine that your strap slips off the pins  because the strap layers are separating and providing too much clearance around the pins.  Some contact adhesive and pinching the loops closer to the pin (bulldog clips?) while it dries would probably stop it.  a
    • You realize this goes against the theme of the message board where it likes everything in separate boxes not consolidated. Then to add to your fragmented discussion I already answered one of the questions elsewhere. Then the classic problem of when was this watch made and what is the date of your technical documentation? Then should I answer your questions? Or? Conveniently I'm not finding it lurking in the computer as I usually try to convert everything to PDFs and I know I've seen this somewhere and that is the Omega documentation of where they no longer use this mainspring of separate components. It's why if you look in the new list parts list that you don't have it's just one part of mainspring as opposed to two separate components. Then yes I would've posted images somewhere else on the group of how to lubricate a mainspring barrel with automatic. The two lubricants you mention are not suitable for breaking grease so if you don't have breaking grease ill have to go and purchase that.
    • It's always interesting with the watch companies is how the technical documentation changes with time. So while at one time Omega what I have a documentation specific to your watch later on they don't they just consolidate common things into one technical documents. Where conveniently skip over a whole bunch of other stuff then In any case you are asking about cannon pinion For the third whale this is what they have how to remove it. The important note on lubrication or not to lubricated and that looks like a staking set punched push it on? Don't see any reference to supporting it on the back side There is no a reference to movement holder for fitting the hands.  
×
×
  • Create New...