Jump to content

Good Taste Or Bad?


fjseal

Recommended Posts

Give it to me straight from the shoulder folks...does this look okay?

 

This is a watch bought for spares, now I have replaced the parts I used and decided to customise the dial. The brand was "Towne" and the dial was in poor condition. I experimented with dark and light blue, dark and light green, black and white for the number indexes. I settled on dark blue. The dial is sprayed with Revell Satin red SM331. I would have liked the numbers to have been a little less bulky than they are. I just did it for a bit of fun as an exercise. At least I may have the worst looking watch that no-one else has got!

I bought a brown strap to go with it.

The movement is an AS1187 and it is keeping good time so far.

 

Frank.

 

post-363-0-42279900-1445288456_thumb.jpg

post-363-0-52145300-1445288480_thumb.jpg

post-363-0-52600000-1445288511_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What the heck , Try another color scheme...The red IS red....the blue ?..............what can I say ? ...oh wait , I know ,..... "Not my cup of tea "

 

Use a transfer from one of your model car kits . It doesn't even have to fit neatly in the diameter of the dial ....You Know ,.... Dali-esque   :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

I'd like to know more about how to work the transfers...never even seen one not being much of a model kit person (although always fascinated by the end result). Is there a way it can be illustrated with pictures how to work them as a watch/dial application? Thank you in advance.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi guys,

 

I'd like to know more about how to work the transfers...never even seen one not being much of a model kit person (although always fascinated by the end result). Is there a way it can be illustrated with pictures how to work them as a watch/dial application? Thank you in advance.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

 

+1.....anyone on the transfers? i'd like to see what it's all about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...