Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I got myself a sorry-state russian microscope (4x-100x) (I believe it's been dropped, so I fixed the broken stand, I cleaned it and I aligned the glass prisms the best I could - work in progress). For more details on the microscope model, checkout http://microscope.modelengines.info/.

Samples below. The pictures are taken with a phone by putting it on an eyepiece. The subject is a beat-up balance wheel from a Poljot 2209. Looking through the microscope, the image is clearer, with better contrast and, most important, stereoscopic.







Thank you,


  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 323
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Hello Everyone, I am going to share the details of my adventure with a trinocular stereo microscope and a digital camera attached to it. I bought a second hand AmScope SM-1T (1st purchase) and I

Hi Lee, That looks like a nice piece of kit, albeit somewhat over specified. I have been using a Wild Heergrugg M5 now for about 4 years courtesy of an amazing car boot sale find and I wouldn't be

Cant get enough of my scope. its transformed my life!

Posted Images

I've had one of these microscopes for quite a while I bought it second hand as a kit with 3 sets of eye pieces. I paid £65.00 for it off ebay they are built like a tank. The russian objectives are very good on these microscopes well worth seeking out as a cheap stereo microscope.

The only draw back is that the standard lens has only about 90mm working distance below it, I am trying to source a reasonably priced 190mm as this would give a much greater working distance.

Link to post
Share on other sites
What is the working distance at the maximum magnification?

Maximum magnification you are only mm from the object, however, you can easily have it up 2 inches and you are still pretty close. You could use it to project on a computer and then operate on the patient (watch).

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to post
Share on other sites

What do you use to clean the lens? I read somewhere that ether70%/IPA 30% mix would do.

Also, I was searching for a service manual, but I think there isn't anything out there. I am having some problems with the rack/pinion assesmbly - it's a bit too loose.


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Lidl lens cleaning wipes that come in a pack of 100 these are alchol impregnated wipes.

The tension on the rack and pinion is adjustable via the knob on the right hand side,this is a instruction/maintence manual I found online,


I did take mine apart to clean and regrease it as all the old grease had hardend

Link to post
Share on other sites

When you take it apart it becomes fairly obvious where the old grease is it will have  hardend so clean it off, mainly on the threads of the friction adjustment and on the rack. The only grease I had at the time was a grease I use for my mountain bike gears so I used that.I did this about two years ago and its still silky smooth on the focus adjustment.

The only other thing I have done is replace the light with a L.E.D one the old one being a tungsten light powered by a transforner the size of a electricity sub station ran very hot, I dont know how good russian electrics are but I got the distinct impression that the best place for this was the bin.

Link to post
Share on other sites

first of all: HA HA!! nice one with electricity sub-station :)) True....

I am waiting for a cheap chinese 144 LED microscope Lamp myself to replace the "Heater", but I am a bit skeptical about it being as strong as the original light.

About the rack/pinion, I wasn't referring to the rack/pinion itself but more at the pinion axle and the knobs at it's end. Those are slipping, meaning the knobs are slipping on the axle - so I am thinking maybe I put too much grease and in the wrong places. 

So to reiterate the question: where did you grease the pinion axle? For example: did you grease the washers near the knob? How about the wood piece that resembles a champagne cork material?

Sorry if it's a dumb question. When I disassembled the thing, there was hardened grease everywhere. Also I struggled about 2 hours (from 2AM to 4 AM) because when I replaced the flange form the left side (from the rack-pinion assembly, the one that is fixed in 3 screws), I put it upside down - so the pinion didn't slide smoothly on the rack. Dumb, dumb, dumb....

Link to post
Share on other sites

No just grease the axle. I think the wood piece is some kind of hardend leather in mine I did not put any grease on, thats what provides the resistance to stop the focus being too loose and moving from the weight of the head. If the knobs are slipping on the axle have you tightend the two nuts that hold the knobs to the axle enough I know they where a pain to do being so far down in the knob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have now cobbled together a eyepiece adapter for my MBC made from a old canon extension tube and a turned aluminium tube that fits over the eyepiece.

Using it I have found the 8x eyepiece to be optically better than the 14x at low magnifications the fall off around the edges is very pronounced with only the central portion of the frame sharp as in the example below1_zpsalbllgnn.jpg


But this improves as the magnification increases,


Contrast and sharpness are good Russian optics have always been good, having taken a lot of equipment and manufacturing facilties when germany was split after the war, but there is no depth of field to speak of so focus is very shallow in all these pic I have focused on the top of the centre wheel pinion,


The scratches on the top of the pinion are pin sharp but focus falls off on the screw heads,







  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites


This is the set up I have attached a cheap L.E.D ring flash on to the lens this was bought very cheaply off Ebay for £10.00 including postage it can be used as a flash or a constant light source and comes with a number of adapters to fit various lenses.

The eyepiece adapter is a old Canon fit cheap chinese extension tube with a aluminium tube attached which fits directley over any one of the eyepieces.

These adapters can be bought ready made off Ebay for various D-SLR cameras or compact cameras.DSC_1079_zpsmrorjmri.jpg

Edited by wls1971
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
8 hours ago, winchman said:

I looked at these on Ebay but would it work on a Mac? No mention in system requirements?

Dont know but yesterday i have found the perfect app to use this camera with. It is the NCH Debut software.

I have tried Media Player HC, VLC, Youcam, free2xcam and even WIndows Movie Maker ... all had some issues, random but great picture delay which made lathe work hard, no fullscreen...  Even a simple picture was sometimes a headache. But this Debut seem perfect so far.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Been after one of these for a while, but wanted to try before I bought. Had the chance at a motorsport show I was at for work this week. Have to say, I'm very impressed.

This is the unit


Which I got on a show special for $70.

And here are a couple of sample pics.

So far very happy, it has a great working range and also connects to my phone, making it practical to use to work under (fliping the phone upside down means everything moves the way you expect it too)



  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, vinn3 said:

good show ! so;  do you just plug this into your computer and take a photo?   F.M. (magic) 

Yup, pretty much, I'm using a free bit of software called Plugable Digital Viewer which the manufacturer recomended. There are other options for the scope as well, they did one that cleverely combined multiple images to give more depth of field but it was a bit more cash.

It is the first time I have actually been able to see side play on pinions etc. Looking forward to spotting dirt after cleaning movements that under a loupe look clean!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • jdm pinned this topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the reply! I live in the US and I do have most of the stuff I need. I do have a full set of Moebius greases and oils as well. Looking at the 1900 for a while now, so I'll probably pick that up. As I said, I have a pretty good set of tools including hand levers, Presto Tools, Bergeon Screwdrivers, Dumont tweezers, loupes and other magnifiers, movement bed, Bergeon hand oilers and pots, Bergeon movement-holder, pith and peg wood, Rodico, etc, etc, etc. I have a couple of Seagull 6498s and a Seagul 2824-2 to practice destroying....er.....assembling and reassembling.
    • The intro is like something from a tv show but the instructional parts seem to be from a live training course. I'm 5 videos in and hooked, will be watching them all, great find!
    • you left out an important detail by the way? A lot of this depends upon where you live.. One of the recommendations I like to give beginners is purchasing a brand-new 6497  Chinese clone  as the Swiss originals too expensive in the clone works just fine.. Then you definitely want a timegrapher iin the beginning there very cheap now compared to what they once cost either the Chinese 1000 or the 1900 are both excellent machines. So if you have a new timing machine  and a new watch  you can llearn how to properly time things on the machine. You can look at your brand-new watch see how it functions. Then you can taken apart  and put it back together  and put it back on the timing machine and see if it still functions. Timing machines are more than just timing their diagnostic devices. There's so many questions newbies ask where if they just a timing machine it would help narrow the problem down considerably. Does not like you can hold the watch to your four head and absorb the knowledge of its problems you need  ways of doing diagnostics. Then unfortunately magnetized watches don't run well  they will have issues. aa unfortunate problem with watch repair is that is a heck of a lot of specialty tools that sooner or later would be really nice to have.. As long a basic tools you have to have.  Then when you get in the lubrication  is some of those are nice to have an they're not exactly cheap  so this isn't exactly a really cheap hobby.  
    • The latest 404 club member.  A very new looking, but slightly broken "Sekonda Classique" branded skeletonized Chinese standard movement full hunter pocket watch. Listed as not working, spares or repair, it cost 99p plus shipping. The click spring was broken and the original movement holder is missing. The donors I have, all had had various different arrangement of barrel bridge and click spring, and none matched, so I swapped the whole lot. Barrel with mainspring, barrel bridge and click. The mechanisms are very easy to work on, and in general parts from one variant of the "Standard" movement have a good chance of fitting in another, but obviously not always. It is now running nicely, and looks quite attractive, although the over all build quality is not spectacular.
    • Hi,  Just getting into watchmaking/repair as a hobby, and I have most of the tools and practice movements I'll need. My question is about timing (no pun intended) of purchase of a Timegrapher, Demagnetizer and Ultrasonic Cleaner. My plan is to practice on the movements, taking them apart, lubricating and reassembling repeatedly until I can begin to amass enough skill to begin to work on cheap and/or damaged watches, slowly building up to purchasing non-working, older, eventually vintage, watches and repairing/restoring. However, I'm just at the beginning stages, so my question is: Is it worth it to grab a timegrapher and demag now, and wait for the ultrasonic cleaner, should I wait on all of them, or should I grab them all as I will want to clean and relube my practice movements. Thanks! Imp
  • Create New...