Jump to content

Cleaning and oiling balance and jewels


Recommended Posts


For those who use One Dip, how do you use it? Do you transfer it to a more practical jar to use it and then back to original container?

I transfer some into a small glass jar with a glass pipette. Easier to work with that way and can be sealed up so it doesn’t flash off as quickly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/22/2019 at 2:50 PM, tony1212 said:

Is there a risk that the glass fiber brushes leave marks on the metal parts? How to you use them? Liberally or with specific care?

Yes! I use them to remove rust and corrosion from stems, wheel pinions, and wheel pivots (steel). You have to use them with "specific care" as they can produce some pretty ghastly scratches on the wheels themselves (non-steel parts). I hold the wheels as steady as I can with brass tweezers or in a vice, and then I brush the pinion in one direction away from the wheel towards the pivot. Fibreglass scratch brushes are extremely potent, sometimes too potent and that's why I've just ordered a nylon scratch brush which can be used more liberally and on other non-steel parts but still have a very good effect.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Yes! I use them to remove rust and corrosion from stems, wheel pinions, and wheel pivots (steel). You have to use them with "specific care" as they can produce some pretty ghastly scratches on the wheels themselves (non-steel parts). I hold the wheels as steady as I can with brass tweezers or in a vice, and then I brush the pinion in one direction away from the wheel towards the pivot. Fibreglass scratch brushes are extremely potent, sometimes too potent and that's why I've just ordered a nylon scratch brush which can be used more liberally and on other non-steel parts but still have a very good eff

Out of materials of your choice, I make several  golves to pull over a flat wooden ice creame cone, to use as brush on pallet jewels, Your one directional strokes of the brush is A okay.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Nucejoe said:

Out of materials of your choice, I make several  golves to pull over a flat wooden ice creame cone, to use as brush on pallet jewels, Your one directional strokes of the brush is A okay.

Sorry ice cream sticks not cones

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/21/2019 at 1:40 PM, nickelsilver said:

Benzine won't melt the shellac. Alcohol will, but even that needs some time.

I stick pivots into pegwood or cut the tip of a tooth pick with nail clipper to stick the pivot into, rotate the tooth pick " not the pivot"  repeat , best to soak the part in your cleaning solution.  If the shock system lets, remove the jewel ,enter the tooth pick inot the housing, in which case I rotate the wheel. Soak and rinse again.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/2/2019 at 10:22 AM, mikepilk said:

Worried about shellac dissolving, I tried an old pallet in IPA for 5 mins in the ultrasonic without any noticeable change

I forgot about a pallet in IPA for about 20/30 minutes and the pallets stones came loose, that's why I never rinse the pallets and the roller in IPA for more than a few seconds. Five minutes probably wouldn't do much or any harm, but personally, I just don't want to risk it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/2/2019 at 11:18 AM, Nucejoe said:

Out of materials of your choice, I make several  golves to pull over a flat wooden ice creame cone, to use as brush on pallet jewels, Your one directional strokes of the brush is A okay.

I'm afraid I can't picture this in my head, could you please provide a picture? It sounds very interesting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/2/2019 at 12:31 PM, Nucejoe said:

I stick pivots into pegwood or cut the tip of a tooth pick with nail clipper to stick the pivot into, rotate the tooth pick " not the pivot"  repeat

Do you by chance mean pith wood? I think quite a bit a force would have to be used to penetrate peg wood (a toothpick would be softer) with a pivot and in my mind that could break the pivot. Or, do you make a super tiny hole in the peg wood first? Or, perhaps the pivot is so small that it can actually penetrate peg wood without any problem. When thinking about it some more the answer is probably yes!? Oh well, I guess I could try it but if you have the time to elaborate I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually prefer toothpicks for pegging jewel pivots as they are somewhat softer than peg wood.  You can develop a sharpened tip with sandpaper or a fine file.  I do sometimes use peg wood as well though.

 

I use naptha as well in the ultrasonic.  I run thru three separate naptha baths and pith the pivots on wheels, the pallet, and the balance into pith wood for cleaning between bath number two and three.

 

It works for me but use at your own risk.

 

RMD

Edited by rduckwor
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I picked up a movement from Ebay to tinker with, I think it’s Derby 40. I only have experience with incabloc and this one puzzles me. There is a balance jewel and an endstone but no shock spring so why the endstone?
To clean and lubricate the jewel it looks like I’m going to have to remove the hairspring.
Any tips, threads, articles or videos lubricating this?

20190612_213743 (Copy).jpg

20190613_212249 (Copy).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Open "boot" on index pins. Loosen stud screw. Remove balance. Remove two screws on underside of balance cock to remove cap jewel.

Oil drop should cover around 50% of the cap jewel. Refer to BHI document.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your tips and explanations.

I don’t know how you open the boot. My plan was to loosen the stud screw and slide the hair spring through the boot and index pin to remove it but looking at the picture the hairspring doesn’t go as far as the stud. I’ll have to have a good look at it at home, admittedly I never took a balance apart and I’m not sure how it is actually attached and I can’t see it that well from the picture.

Is the BHI document available to view anywhere?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...