Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 11/29/2021 at 1:31 PM, LittleWatchShop said:

If you proceed with that rheostat, be sure to report back to the forum on your progress!!

Part came today.  If I get some time at work tomorrow I'll start taking it apart and try to take some pictures as I go.  The new part seems a tad larger, is all ceramic and very robust. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New with the old.  The new one has threads that are shorter on the shaft to mount it to the frame so I had to bend the prongs up to keep them away from the light bulb base and slightly offset it from its original position.  The original prongs were bent upwards too so no worry I guess.

20211215_124046.jpg

20211215_124107.jpg

Edited by SonnyBurnett
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I haven't soldered in a number of years and it shows.  It leaves much to be desired. Might try to clean it up a bit tomorrow.  The switch splice I soldered then used heat shrink and then put a wrap of 3M electrical tape.  Not needed, but never hurts.

 

20211215_140821.jpg

20211215_145102.jpg

Edited by SonnyBurnett
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Nice.  You need to put a little more heat to those solder joints and get the solder flowing.  But...you are on your way...get cleaning!

Yeah, the solder gun just wasn't heating up very well.  I'm hoping to get to get it a lot better.  I have an Iron I might get out and use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, SonnyBurnett said:

I was using a 100 watt solder gun.  The one in our cabinet was a Chicago Electric.  I went back using a soldering iron and it worked much better.

It's generally the size of the tip rather than the power going to the iron that makes the difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi all,

I’ve tried to do some research on the various machines and relative basket sizes. The machine model seems to be “L&R Special”.

it is missing 1 lid and the basket attachment but works fully otherwise. Does anybody know if their is a particular basket that fits this machine? I really appreciate any help/advice.

thanks

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • jdm pinned this topic
2 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

It is a motor, a switch, a rheostat, a heater resistor, and a bulb--very simple.  All of the items can be repaired. Unlikely you will ever need to do anything to the motor except for brushes.  Someone on the forum recently had to replace a rheostat.

So, in summary, I would not worry.  Don't pay too much.

Thanks for the reassurance. In terms of the basket, I’m going to measure the outer diameter of the wheel where is affixes. Do you think this would be crazy expensive to replace?

 

I’ve heard of people finding generic or later replacements but I haven’t found anyone with my exact L & R model. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JulianK said:

Thanks for the reassurance. In terms of the basket, I’m going to measure the outer diameter of the wheel where is affixes. Do you think this would be crazy expensive to replace?

 

I’ve heard of people finding generic or later replacements but I haven’t found anyone with my exact L & R model. 

I bought  a set last year for $88.  A little high, but I have seen them cheaper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
    • No problem to replace the setting with the staking set. Press the new setting from inside, use flat face punch with hole. The punch must be wider than the setting, the hole to be as not to press at the stone, but only on the bush. Press by hand until the setting gets flush with the plate surface, so the punch must rest on it.
×
×
  • Create New...