Jump to content

L&R Cleaning Machines

BlakeL
 Share

Recommended Posts

watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi John  A wipe down of the post with oil/light grease is a good idea to keep the motor slide free. Making the wavebreaksrs/baffles sounds like there will be a raid on the kitchen utensil front.  They are usually fitted to the lid under the motor so when the motor is inserted into the jar the breakers are also inserted and the lid seals the jar to avoid spillage when in use.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 497
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bobolink
bobolink

I acquired an L&R Master off eBay months back.  It was  dated 1954. It looked tired and after receiving it ran really poorly.   So, I embarked on a rebuilding project.   I am writing this  because

ED209
ED209

Greetings everyone, hope all is well.   Well, it's done.  I don't call this a full restoration due to lack of skills and still learning techniques, etc. so we will call this a half or semi-r

ED209
ED209

A few more glamour shots with all the accessories (jars, lids, baffling, stars, etc.).   I also figured out why switches come with two mounting nuts....I didn't realize it was to adjust how

Posted Images

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, JohnC said:

A follow up question. Does anyone know whether the motor bearings need oiling on these? I have looked through this thread and I have not seen any mention of it. Thanks. 

I had an old one something like yours that I used for very dirty bits and pieces and I never had to do any maintenance, I used it for nearly 30 years and it was very old when I stated.  Don't know if that helps or puts your mind at rest.  

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted
On 10/4/2021 at 2:43 PM, JohnC said:

A stopgap solution made from an old aluminum pie dish. I think I will try to make some as @nickelsilver
suggests, using wire. Thanks guys 👍

IMG_20211004_094245531.jpg

Be careful with aluminium and ammoniated fluids - I had an issue once when cleaning clock parts in an aluminium tray and it left deposits on some of the parts. Almost like electrolysis. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted

Aluminium is quite reactive in some situations. In combination with acids or alkalis, I suspect it may cause some interesting side reactions with the zinc or other metals in brass or bronzes. 

This can be turned to your advantage if you want to clean silver, as a solution of baking soda coupled with some aluminium foil will remove tarnish.

I haven't tried this on silvered dials, as there may be some other effects, but I may add it to my list of experiments.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
SonnyBurnett Watch Enthusiast

SonnyBurnett

Posted
Posted

Hello guys.  I have a L&R watch cleaning machine that works but the speed control rheostat knob doesn't work well.  Does anyone know of a replacement part for this?  or a good substitute?  I found one by Allied a RHS25RE.  It's a 1 amp 25 Ohm and good to 550 volts.  I know the Master machines are 115 volt at 75 cycles.  Would this work?

I would like to get my machine back up and running again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, SonnyBurnett said:

 the speed control rheostat knob doesn't work well.  Does anyone know of a replacement part for this?

Normally, especially on conservative restorations, these are cleaned . You can drop it in e.g. Isopropil alcohol, then blow compressed air into it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, SonnyBurnett said:

Does anyone know of a replacement part for this? 

Just like in watch repair a general description of I have a watch and it needs a part just doesn't cut it. We would really need to see what the original part looks like and its characteristics like numbers it has on it then we can pick a replacement because conceivably it's not the only one in the universe they ever used and I seriously doubt most people even have a clue of what that uses unless they ever replace there's providing they even have one.

 

11 hours ago, SonnyBurnett said:

RHS25RE

Then for all of us that don't grasp what that is by just the part number I have a picture and it looks expensive. Now that I can see what it is I think the cleaning device up above is good. 

 

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ohmite/RHS25RE/824061

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SonnyBurnett Watch Enthusiast

SonnyBurnett

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, jdm said:

Normally, especially on conservative restorations, these are cleaned . You can drop it in e.g. Isopropil alcohol, then blow compressed air into it 

Well I'd have to un-solder  to take it out, so if I'm going to do that, I'm going to replace it, especially since the brass band around the stem has broken loose.

 

6 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Just like in watch repair a general description of I have a watch and it needs a part just doesn't cut it. We would really need to see what the original part looks like and its characteristics like numbers it has on it then we can pick a replacement because conceivably it's not the only one in the universe they ever used and I seriously doubt most people even have a clue of what that uses unless they ever replace there's providing they even have one.

 

Well, it's an L&R precision cleaning machine Master model.  The speed control rheostat is the knob in the very front that controls the speed of the motor.  I have it apart at work, I'll take some pics of it but it doesn't have any numbers on it that I remember seeing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

If it is a wire wound rheostat, you don't have to replace it. Just spray it with contact cleaner and work the knob a few times to grind away the oxide layer on the wire coils and it will be fine.

Correct. I was one of these "take everything apart" guys, now with age better wisdom is growing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted

Back in the old days when you did not have a clicker to change channels on your TV, there was a rotating mechanical channel selector to perform this task (and back then, the reason people bore children was so that they could order them to get off the couch and change the channel!!)  The contacts would oxidize and result in intermittent continuity.  They sold "Tuner Cleaner" spray that you sprayed on the contacts as you spun the channel selector.  I cleaned a lot of tuners during my years as a TV tech.

Yes, I agree that a wire-wound rheostat should work perfectly fine after spraying with contact cleaner spray.  There is, of course, the possibility that the wiper is mechanically compromised...in which case cleaner will not solve the problem.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
SonnyBurnett Watch Enthusiast

SonnyBurnett

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/20/2021 at 7:19 PM, HectorLooi said:

If it is a wire wound rheostat, you don't have to replace it. Just spray it with contact cleaner and work the knob a few times to grind away the oxide layer on the wire coils and it will be fine.

Here is the Rheostat.  I can get the machine at work if more pics are needed. I'm an electrician for a hospital so I have it at work for the repair.  There seems to be a brass ribbon soldered to the wiper that is wrapped around the shaft.  You can't see it well in these pics.  I was concerned about creating a short if it touches the wire.

I haven't tried cleaning it yet and I won't mess with it until I solder on a new cord.  All the old rubber insulation has vulcanized and falls off if you breathe near it.

 

20211122_145918.jpg

20211122_145931.jpg

20211122_145936.jpg

20211122_145937.jpg

20211122_145943.jpg

Edited by SonnyBurnett
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rossjackson01
      Intro

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Welcome my friend. 
    • rossjackson01
      Help please.

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Been there. Worn that Tshirt.  'ping'. Hands and knees. Nothing. Nada. 20 minutes? Ha! I found it 7 month later. How? Well, after advice from a member, I invested in a £4 UV light torch.  Hands and knees looking for a 'ping' from a Sekonda, found them both within 30 seconds. UV makes the jewel shine. easy peasy. Could have taken longer. Just lucky on the location of the search. Hope this helps.
    • Rixy
      Broken lug

      By Rixy · Posted

      Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • rossjackson01
      Without Our Forum

      By rossjackson01 · Posted

      Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • TheQuietMan
      Help please.

      By TheQuietMan · Posted

      Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...