Elma Watch Cleaning Machine

[Rafal]

its a nice idea to make your own cork seals as they are so expensive... regarding speed control - I have smilar machine but automatic and I cant see any means to control speed - and with wave brakers there is a difference when its running (jars are the same). I suppose it can be easly run without wave brakers maybe just a little less liquid inside to acomodate vortex :).

 

btw. what you guys use to clean watches, a specialy as rinsing solution? With my old ultrasonic I used special clean petrol to rinse (2 baths) but with this kind of machine we have heat chamber for drying so Im a bit affreid what happens when it start drying in it after pertol/benzine baths. My plan now is to use Elma 1:9 for cleaning and Suprol spezial for rinsing.

[oldhippy]

Another one on ebay for you. Just one thing collection only stockton on tees. Best of luck.

 

Link

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/elma-watch-jewellery-cleaning-machine-/161777536876?hash=item25aab14f6c

[JimInOz]

its a nice idea to make your own cork seals as they are so expensive... regarding speed control - I have smilar machine but automatic and I cant see any means to control speed - and with wave brakers there is a difference when its running (jars are the same). I suppose it can be easly run without wave brakers maybe just a little less liquid inside to acomodate vortex :).

 

btw. what you guys use to clean watches, a specialy as rinsing solution? With my old ultrasonic I used special clean petrol to rinse (2 baths) but with this kind of machine we have heat chamber for drying so Im a bit affreid what happens when it start drying in it after pertol/benzine baths. My plan now is to use Elma 1:9 for cleaning and Suprol spezial for rinsing.

 

Petrol?

:startle:

:crazysmile:

 

I was using shellite (lighter fluid) in my home made setup, but for the reasons you mentioned, no extremely volatile fluids in the machine with the heater.

 

With my new machine I'm using L&R Extra Fine Watch Cleaning solution, with two rinse jars of Zenith Drizebrite. I think they are lower flashpoint than petrol or shellite.

[Rafal]

I dont know proper English name for it  :D  this is something between lighter fluid and One Dip (at least it smells like that). I was advised by my friendly watchmaker to use it and so far it did great job. Regarding Zenith - I cant find any supplier in Europe to get it, seems to be available only in US. Ive seen very good opinions about Zenith fluids. I will test Elma Suprol and will see if there is much differences from my old method.

[GeorgeClarkson]

Very nice, and no need to worry that the next one to come along is better/cheaper/faster etc. Your's is fine.

 

With square jars you shouldn't need wave breakers if you keep the spin speed to low enough to agitate but not froth and vortex too much.

 

Cork seals can degrade, but there is a solution. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/2454-talking-of-cleaning-machines/?p=24724

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 

Nice, I will take advice, in case I need it, and follow your steps ;)

[GeorgeClarkson]

And the little Elsa is here!

 

And as I was expecting, some things are missin... :(

• lids for the glass jars
• baskets

As per the motor, it spins nicels, even if it seems to need some lubrification, and the heater works: after 3 minutes I get 136°C on the bottom plate of the heat chamber.

 

Will post pics ASAP

[Geo]

No major issues then George.

I see you've given her a name already. ;)

[GeorgeClarkson]

Ahahaha Geo you are right, I did, but I made a Typo, without even noticing it ..... I only did now that you pointed it out :P I wanted to write "Elma"....

 

Here the pics as I promised:

 

It came in a very large box...

 

 

And it arrived in one piece:

 

 

 

Timer and switches all work well, and look good:

 

 

 

The flashy, vintage name tag is just beautiful:

 

 

 

The basket holder is in good condition: 

 

 

 

Cork seals still there:

 

 

And even the cork pads on the bottom of the jar pits are still there:

 

 

 

As I said, it works, needs some good cleaning though. And of course, now I start looking for the baskets (and the basket holder) and the jar lids.

 

Does someone have some spares?

Edited July 30, 2015 by GeorgeClarkson

[Rafal]

Cork pads are easy to replace, I used some thin cork for laying on the floor, you can get it in sheets 2 or 3mm thick. I cut to size and stick with double sided tape.

[Lawson]

Awesome George! 

 

What a great purchase mate.

Laughin like a big fat hairy spider!! :biggrin:

[GeorgeClarkson]

Cork pads are easy to replace, I used some thin cork for laying on the floor, you can get it in sheets 2 or 3mm thick. I cut to size and stick with double sided tape.

Yes Rafal that is exactly what I was thinking to do, thanks ;)

[GeorgeClarkson]

Awesome George! 

 

What a great purchase mate.

Laughin like a big fat hairy spider!! :biggrin:

Thanks Lawson! I am now actively looking for the spares I am missing... Can't wait to use it!

[GeorgeClarkson]

That's also a beauty, pity it is only collection.... and that I already got mine :) At least this one looks complete with accessories, though :(

[Rafal]

I just did my first full watch cleaning, combination elma 1:9 + distiled water + suprol spezial works very good. Heat chamber gets about 50C so no fire issue. Jars have marks for making 1:9 solution which is quite nice. I have to say I love automatic works :) I just set the timer and sit back and Elma did the rest for me :).

Edited July 31, 2015 by Rafal

[Gary]

Nice stuff! I want one and have been pricing them! Great job!

[GeorgeClarkson]

I just did my first full watch cleaning, combination elma 1:9 + distiled water + suprol spezial works very good. Heat chamber gets about 50C so no fire issue. Jars have marks for making 1:9 solution which is quite nice. I have to say I love automatic works :) I just set the timer and sit back and Elma did the rest for me :).

Mm I checked my heating chamber and the bottom plate gets up to 140°C... Have to check it out again... :s

[Rafal]

Plate for sure is more hot than air in the chamber. I would check basket temperature instead of plate as it never touch plate.

[GeorgeClarkson]

If only I had a basket... :(

[oldhippy]

George have you looked here it says range of baskets and fittings can be used across Elma cleaning machine range. If you are not sure you can give them a call.

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/064mm-baskets-fittings

[GeorgeClarkson]

Nice, thanks oldhippy, I will keep an eye on it, even if I would prefer not to spend that much money on it...

[tonystime]

great find, nice machine.

[Alaskamick]

Hi, I recently purchased a watch cleaning machine. An Elma Record I think.

When I got it the plug had been cut off as a previous safety measure.

The problem is that being very old and made in Germany the wires in the incoming cable are weird colours and it is 4 core cable so I have no way of identifying where the four are connected in the new plug.

They are Red, Blue, Black and Grey.

Can anyone look in the plug of a similar machine which they own and tell me how they are connected.

Any help would be appreciated. 

[clockboy]

Found this on the net. This is for 3 wires so be very careful as it looks like red was earth.

 

Germany currently is using the international Electrical Commisions Coding

Neutral Blue
Line Brown (older Black)
Ground is Green/Yellow

The old system was (easy to identify if Red wire present or no Green/Yellow)
Line Black
Neutral Gray
Ground Red

[Geo]

Good morning Alaskamick.

I purchased an old Elma cleaner back in January and it has old German wiring. Here's what I found on mine, which came with a continental plug fitted, and is now fitted with a British thirteen amp plug.

"My machine arrived from Germany today and everything is working perfectly. All I'm going to do is give it a light clean and polish and start using it. The only thing that had me puzzled was the colour of the old continental mains cable, Red is earth, Black is live and Grey is neutral. I did a lot of double checking before wiring the plug. The cable and electrical controls are all in excellent condition."

The above is a quote from a post I made back in January.

My machine unlike yours, did not have the fourth blue wire. I have a "SUSPICION" that the blue wire is there to give a 110 volt option. IE. If your mains supply was 110 volt, you would connect the Blue wire to the live instead of the Black. (DO NOT TRY THIS)

PLEASE ENSURE THAT YOU GET A "QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN" TO CHECK OUT YOUR MACHINE. WHAT I HAVE SAID ABOVE IS ONLY MY OPINION. I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU WIRE THE MACHINE YOURSELF, AS THE ABOVE INFORMATION MAY OR MAY NOT BE CORRECT IN YOUR CASE. ALSO CONSIDER THAT THE PLUG MAY HAVE BEEN REMOVED BECAUSE OF A SERIOUS ELECTRICAL FAULT IN THE MACHINE!

[Alaskamick]

Thanks a lot Geo and clockboy.

 

Unfortunately this doesn't answer my problem.

 

I realise now that Red is earth as I have traced it to part of the metalwork.

 

I still have the main problem. The cable was not cut off as I thought but properly disconnected at the plug and it travels up to the switches at the top and the three are connected to various points via connecting blocks.

 

I think that one of the switches must need its own supply but I still need to know which is which.

 

I have photos of the wiring before I disassembled it so connecting them where they should go is no problem. It is the other end I am stuck at because as I said it came without a plug.

 

I don't think 110 volts comes into the equation as the electrical plate on the machine clearly states 230/240 volts.

 

I was hoping that someone would have the same machine and be able to check in the plug.