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JimInOz

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JimInOz last won the day on January 23 2016

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About JimInOz

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    Melbourne Australia
  1. I agree with Roberto. Don't try to use a Jaxa or anything else unless you can score a vintage opener somewhere. Roberto suggested the robbers key approach, you may also use the superglue/nut solution which has worked well in the past and is reversible with superglue removal. Your caseback is an ideal candidate for this method and will only require you to get a nice flat surface on the nut (wet and dry paper). I'll see if I can find an example (I'm sure I've seen it here, @Geo ?) Doh! Just use the search for "caseback nut"
  2. Thanks for the tips, next time I'm in town I'll drop in to the hobby shop for a decent size tin of paint. Most of the stores around here have paint in "X litres". Has anybody tried black nail polish at all?
  3. Well all's well that ends well. I finished the recovery mission on a Rip Curl Oceantide Tide Watch. Found it in a box of watch junk I got a couple of years ago. Completely dead, choked with mud and corrosion, no strap, movement/battery corroded and dead as a dodo. It's probably only worth about $5 but I just had to rescue it, so out with the movement for a case clean. Pushers were removed and de-crudded, re-lubed and re-installed. Putting on the tiny C clips was very intense (but I didn't lose any this time). The movement was stripped, cleaned, all contacts scrubbed and a brand new battery went in and now it's a goer. The digital calendar only goes up to 2010 so have to cheat on the year to get the right day/date combo and now I have to figure out how to sync the tide readings to local time (any surfers ever use one of these?). Now on a NATO for occasional wear at the beach.
  4. Good tip Mark, thanks for a bit more education ;-) I'll file that one in the memory bank for removal procedures, but I will stick to the baggy for putting the little boggers back on! (Unless you have a tip for that?) Cheers Jim
  5. Don't you hate it when you know you're removing a springy thing from a watch, but you don't want to bag it (too much trouble) so you just go ahead and push it off the pusher. "PING"......and the circlip smaller than a pin head just vanishes. You freeze like a rabbit in the headlights hoping to see or hear the landing but no luck. A scour of the bench top reveals nothing so you resign yourself to the loss, get a ziplock bag and remove the last three clips which although they spring like fleas on steroids, are captured inside the baggy. But imagine the relief as you go to scratch an itch on your left temple and notice a blemish on your underarm, not a blemish in fact, but the missing circlip. "YaFKNhoo" is a mild expression used by many watch tinkerers on finding that part no longer destined for the never never. I can't recommend too highly the use of the clear plastic sandwich bag when attempting to remove those high powered little parts that just want freedom and obscurity (usually in the carpet).
  6. Entertaining, I almost felt the need to wear my safety specs. And the fact that he was mauling an Invicta didn't bother me, but experimenting on a good movement with the hands and dial still attached..................
  7. Unless your crystal is unobtainable then I'd just suggest a new crystal (even generic crystals may be suitable). Far easier, and the risk with using buffing discs is dishing or ending up with an uneven surface. Ideally you would grind the crystal on a super flat plate (unless it was domed).
  8. Many vintage "crystals" are actually a plastic polymer resin or plexiglass, Omega has a plastic crystal material named Hesalite. These can be polished quite easily with great results by simply using a very fine abrasive like Brasso. Mineral crystals are the next step up and are much harder than plastic but can still be scratched. One advantage is that the aren't as brittle as sapphire crystals. Being softer than sapphire they can be polished more easily, but not as easily as plastic. Sapphire crystals are hardest of the three and are hard to scratch (but not impossible) and are hard to polish without proper abrasives and tools.
  9. I like it when people from non-watchmaker backgrounds just go "I wonder if this works?" Some great things happen. Thanks for another idea Geo.
  10. If there is rust (iron oxide) on the case it's not gunmetal. Gunmetal is a form of bronze/brass/copper (a number of variations) so it will not display normal rust symptoms as you have shown. If the case is iron steel, it will take to cleaning and blueing as the same as a rifle barrel. Be sure to remove the movement and strip all case parts apart before cleaning and blueing. Cheers Jim
  11. Found it, from matabog, some good videos explaining the issue. Go to the end of the thread. http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3473-safety-roller/
  12. You can't change the position of the impulse jewel on the table, it's inexroably aligned to the safety crescent. What you can do is change the position of these items in relation to the escapement anchor by adjusting the stud anchor position or the rate adjustment stud. Both of these activities are clearly explained in a couple of videos on Youtube, search for rebanking and overbanking. One of our members recently posted these great tips but I can't remember who (Lagavulin has dulled the memory cells but delighted all other senses).
  13. Wow, didn't take long at all, I'll have to find a harder one next time ;-) Part on order, just have to wait for it to travel from the other side of the planet.
  14. So I have a little AS1686. The previous owner mentioned that he had trouble winding and setting the time. All of the parts are shown below. What is your diagnosis?
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