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Everything posted by Alaskamick

  1. Sorry watchweasol, I forgot to thank you for your help with my problem. You solved my question for me and gave me some very useful documents for the future. Very much appreciated. Mike.
  2. Hi, I have a problem with an automatic Seamaster DEVILE which I purchased years ago but could never look at the movement because it has to come out through the front. It's a mid 60's model and marked on the rear waterproof. At the time of purchase the seller said that the crown came loose and he had it repaired. Not replaced On a timgerapher it is showing - 128 s/day, 232Deg, 3.2 ms,52.0deg and 19800. When trying to turn the crown it is solid and impossible to wind up. It runs and keeps time, turning the crown in the first position out moves the fingers and it changes date at midnight. I also have what I think is an identical watch which is Cal. No.565 which does wind up with the crown and has a second position which moves the date forward Before I start to attempt a repair can I ask a few questions. What is the method for removing the movement from the case. Did Omega ever make watches that did not wind Could there be a problem with the stem Does anyone have a parts list in case I need to buy parts Is it possible to get a service sheet for this model Sorry for the ramble but any help would be appreciated.
  3. A good looking Omega and it looks spot on to me. I don't see anything to cause doubts.
  4. Thanks Watchweasol. You’ve answered my question.
  5. Can anyone help me with this watch which I recently acquired? It's an Omega Seamaster Quartz Cal 1342. I'm trying to find out what the yellow metal is. The links and the rope pattern Bezel. Are they Brass or did Omega always use gold? Thanks for any help you can give me.
  6. looking for information on the Horotec snap on case back tool. I have bought a chinese version which looks identical and am very pleased with it. The engineering of it and the finish is superb. However I am unsure about the long term quality of the pegs which actually prise the back off and am thinking of changing these for the genuine Horotec ones. Does anyone have a genuine Horotec tool, if so could you measure the diameter of the shank which goes into the tool so that I could check the fit in mine which is 6.95mm Many thanks for any help, Mike
  7. It looks a good site with the same variation of genuine and fake as Ebay. Their English is a bit dodgy but I'm sure with care that there are bargains to be found
  8. You could buy drill bits from Cousins, they go from 0.5m to 2.00 mm. These are jewellery drills but there are all types available, you would need to gently feed the drill through until you get to the shank witch will be the size of the hole. Never having looked for jewels I'm not sure what the hole size would be.
  9. Can anyone help me to to identify an Omega Watch Bracelet please. It is a genuine item with all the correct markings and I would like to find out the model of watch it is intended to fit. Stainless steel, flat links at the sides and beads of rice running down the middle The ends are flat and made to suit lugs with a 20mm gap. The No. on the clasp is 1173 + an oval with No.12 in The ends which fit within the lugs are marked 718 It is new and unused, never fitted to a watch and I want to sell it ( not here ) I'm sure it could be worth a lot of money if I could identify the model it is supposed to fit. Any ideas would be very helpful, thanks a lot and a Merry Christmas to everyone
  10. Hi, I'm asking this question more out of interest and learning rather than to solve a problem. I have a good collection of Omega wrist watches but I started out with pocket watches. A lot of pocket watches are marked ADJUSTED, the more expensive ones are often marked with ADJUSTED 4 , 5 positions and some TEMPERATURE. The only adjustment I know of is at the balance wheel. If I get that spot on how else can it be adjusted without disturbing the initial setting? Can someone more knowledgeable than me explain it please.
  11. Hi, watchweasol, thanks a lot for helping. Much appreciated.
  12. Thanks jdm. I suppose that I should have asked that question first. It just seemed that there needed to be one. Anyway now I know.
  13. Can anyone help me to locate parts lists for Seiko 6119 - 8190 and Seiko 7019 -7080 I remember seeing them here at some time but can't find them again. What I am searching for is large case back washers, if they are required.
  14. I have very fine solid carbide drills which I'm sure would drill it out. If you got the clasp separated from the buckle and sent it to me I would try to do it for you but obviously no guarantees.
  15. Does anyone here know how to get a fine screw out that has broken at the slot so only half remains but not protruding. It's about 1 mm dia I think
  16. The buckle is a separate part from the bracelet so all that matters is the length of the tubes on the ends of it. if they are the same size you can take the one off the bracelet you buy and fit it to your own. That will keep the watch original. You will have to contact the seller and ask for an exact measurement. Can you post the Ebay item no. here please.
  17. Can you get the screw to turn with fine pliers?
  18. Slightly different to mine but I can see the screw on the pusher which you mentioned. I'm sure that if you take that one out then the pusher will slide out together with what ever type of spring is in there. I you post a picture of the dis-assembled bits someone may have a suggestion how to fix it. You can't do any harm to it. If you can't make a spring you may be able to swop the bits from the one on Ebay. Keep us in the picture
  19. Is it a genuine Omega bracelet that you have? They are always numbered, mine is the same and it says 1315/282. Not sure but I think the first part is the bracelet style and the second part is the end fitting which goes into the watch. You have to look at the part which is against your skin to see it. Also before you spend a load of money have a look the part you press in to release, mine has a screw so that you can get the slider out then the spring. You may be able to repair it quite simply. Can you do some more photos which show the whole of the bracelet and both sides of the buckle.
  20. The nut you have undone is only part of the micrometer mechanism, nothing to do with the mounting of the unit. As I said in my earlier post try loosening screw L which I think locks it in place. also try undoing the Ring H. Something frees it up and allows it to move back and forth
  21. You shouldn't have any trouble. Once you have the two spindle flats touching in the centre of the table all you have to do is adjust the location of the micrometer scale, as with any micrometer they can be altered easily. It is normal practice.
  22. it looks to me that if you loosen the two screws A & B then move the micrometer away from the table, move shaft C, which is now loose to the middle of the table E. Tighten the two screws A & B You should the have the meeting point of the two shafts in the middle of the table and both point will be able to meet each other.
  23. I just thought it would be easier to use a Pump rather than fetching off the Back, Stem + Case Clamps then pressing out the crystal and having to do it all in reverse to put it back together. No particular Seiko but I have done a couple recently with flat glasses that press in and out.
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