Jump to content

Elma Watch Cleaning Machine


Recommended Posts

Thanks Geo. Are you think to restore your machine? It is a nice one. I am trying to make one  (DIY) for me, but it's walk very slow as I am looking for some parts and better design.

Can you answer me some questions?

1º- The motor turn for witch way (viewing from motor to jar) - clockwise or couterclockwise? It is because the orientation of the propeller at the top of the basket (my basket do not have this propeller).

2º- Which is the diameter (in mm) of the motor staff? To check if it is the same of my basket.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi ssteel (Nick, correct me if I'm wrong). Thanks too.

 

I had take a look in the electrical schematic you posted earlier and I foun a mistake in the circuit of the heater. I don't know if you are currently about this, but I can try to clarify you if you are interest.

Just tell me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good catch.

If you look only for the side of the heater, when the switch is close the heater will not warm as its terminals are short-circuited by the switch itself. When you open the switch (supposely to worm the heater ) the resistence of the heater will be supplied in series with the neon lamp (I believe the circle with a capacitor simbol inside represent the pilot lamp) and will not heat but only the lamp will turn on.

I don't have some more info of the machine but you can tell me so. The switch is the same (two sections) to heater and to the motor, or there are two separated switches? In case of one switch (with two sections) both sides close at same position or it is reversed (when one side close the othe opens)?

No problems if you cannot say, as the machine is already assembled and works fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Great thread & very informative. Finally picked mine up at weekend. Received new basket & collar today. Oh I also replaced the lids as the Cork on the underside was looking abit tatty. e3dce04692ac3cc88b38dceff296bfff.jpg

The fluids I've gone for are526bfb1b4c32561fdc6d04dccd25c704.jpg

I'll be using the l&r extra fine in pot 1 & the the No3 in pots 2 & 3.

Any advice before I do my first clean?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice clean, standard factory finish example there, as to advice, try it out with some samples first, odd parts, inspect before, and after 15 minutes in each cycle, and inspect afterwards, photo of before and after will surprise you ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have changed from Elma to the L&R and to be honest have not seen difference in performance. Just wondering if the L&R last longer than the Elma.

The first movement I'll be putting through is quite rusty. Would it be normal practice to put it through twice, also If I was going to do that, Do you have to put it through the dryer before back to pot 1?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice clean, standard factory finish example there, as to advice, try it out with some samples first, odd parts, inspect before, and after 15 minutes in each cycle, and inspect afterwards, photo of before and after will surprise you ;)

Good advice, Thanks. I've got some spares I could put through later this evening. Do you recommend putting bracelet through?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first movement I'll be putting through is quite rusty. Would it be normal practice to put it through twice, also If I was going to do that, Do you have to put it through the dryer before back to pot 1?

 

15 minutes cycle in each of the three chemicals, THEN in the drier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes cycle in each of the three chemicals, THEN in the drier.

Thanks, took your advice last nite & put an old base plate through I had. WOW I was amazed. I've got up early this morning excited to strip the rusty/dirty 2836 I have & run it through the washer. As you suggested I'll take some before & after pics. Thanks again for the advice.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed. I usually just use washing up liquid and warm/hot water in the ultrasonic machine to clean cases and bracelets.

 

Tip: If the watch glass has AR coating then make sure the glass is not touching anything else in the cleaner and make sure the water is not too hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, I've done my first wash cycle. All 3 pots + drier. I've inspected the larger parts & there still quite dirty, so I'll try another cycle & if that doesn't work am I correct in thinking bi carb & toothbrush?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just completed my first clean & thought I'd give a little share of before & after. I'm quite pleased with the results as I think the movement was quite bad. I wonder if anyone can recommend a more aggressive cleaner for pot 1 if I get any other movements this far gone.

9766fc5d6aac76bdb15d3fda62371ae3.jpg0f842e5605dbc5dff7c1a487b8243ee4.jpgbec31049d6a7dfc5d73613c258cf2a3a.jpgc686983b6e3074bdc0928906ba935e5a.jpg08bec5744b6efd7afec919968a0aca45.jpg5bb380f8938a6b3c9c00529df4280de0.jpg

And after 2 full wash cycles & a toothbrush with bicarb on the stubborn stuff. 180ac93c07f96a75b64c83fec93c6a56.jpg4d3e1dae76c6e4cab9d818f03d669884.jpgffb68253681743d354dfb68182950d16.jpg4e563b53c474c61e2d0d7961db99de95.jpg

I know there's still bits here & there but hope you'll agree it's a vast improvement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you put the movement in complete, and not disassembled? Would of been interested to see some of the individual parts before and after ;)

It was fully disassembled cdebd57f743b9b1a6b66e32af3258d4c.jpgb29debeeed914a9f81144726980952c0.jpgfe977f2df007f816c63fc7119cc42426.jpg and after 9660171fbab827978ff09f0dea67c479.jpg0280bbbd672a7f7cc7dc6fb92bbb27a8.jpg

My only concern is the balance bridge. As I did not disassemble the balance wheel & bridge it is still showing signs of rust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Picked this up today from a local auction house, it was sold as a collectors item so it was untested and the lead cut off .

It looked reasonably tidy and complete and was offered with a "watchmakers bench top " so thought i'd take the gamble.

Paid £50 plus commission , have done a temporary wiring job just to see if it worked and was fairly amazed and over the moon that it works.

So now going to clean everything up and do the wiring properly .

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y253/andyclient/2015-04/D660E7BB-D99A-42D2-8376-59F339DEB2E4_zpscnkyefmo.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...