Jump to content

Pressing down on Barrel Bridge starts watch working


Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone, 

I'm looking forward to getting acquainted with you all as I dive into watchmaking and collecting again after a little hiatus of a couple of years. For those who saw my introduction post, I am a keen russian watch collector and I'm tinkering with watchmaking after having done a couple of online courses several years ago. 

I have in my collection a Poljot watch with a 2409 movement. It wasn't ticking and to be honest I can't remember if I bought it that way or not. Anyway, with all this extra time on my hands at the moment, I've been watching a lot of WR videos and it has reignited my passion for watch repairs. 

I took the 2409 apart and gave it a good service. I have the watch back together and as soon as I inserted the balance the watch started ticking again. Great! It ticked for about 40seconds or so with some noticeable missed click and then stopped. Interestingly, I noticed that the pressing down on the barrel bridge got the watch ticking again. I though perhaps i didn't tighten the screws down properly so I tried resetting the barrel bridge and barrel and still the same problem. I have a several spare parts movement so I tried using a different mainspring barrel thinking perhaps there was something wrong with the mainspring? That made it work a little longer (2 minutes or so) but still the problem persisted and pressing gently down on the barrel bridge kick started the watch again.

I'm going to strip down the watch completely and inspect every part more closely for any sign of defects. Any ideas what may be going on here? Where should i focus my attention?

Thanks again and I look forward to participating in this community. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you NuceJoe, I will keep that in mind, but at this stage I've yet to install the minute wheel.

Watchweasol, thank you so much for that PDF, it really is great. That makes a lot of sense. I changed the whole barrel assembly including the arbour when I swapped out the mainspring. It did work better so perhaps the spare movement also had a problem(not sure of its history). I'll take a close look under a microscope if full light tomorrow morning and report what i see. 

Thanks, you've been so helpful already. I'm glad I found this site. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you NuceJoe, I will keep that in mind, but at this stage I've yet to install the minute wheel.
Watchweasol, thank you so much for that PDF, it really is great. That makes a lot of sense. I changed the whole barrel assembly including the arbour when I swapped out the mainspring. It did work better so perhaps the spare movement also had a problem(not sure of its history). I'll take a close look under a microscope if full light tomorrow morning and report what i see. 
Thanks, you've been so helpful already. I'm glad I found this site. 
 

I would look at the leaves of the center wheel pinion. Could be a small piece of dirt that could cause it to stop. Clean all the pinion leaves carefully.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

CHeck that the barrel does not tilt when installed. If it does the holes in the barrel bridge or mainplate could be worn slightly, that is why it works when you press down the barrel bridge.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for all the great advice.

@anilv I think you may have hit bingo with this comment " barrel bridge or mainplate could be worn slightly, that is why it works when you press down the barrel bridge." 

I did notice the mainplate had almost a rut scratched into one area, and I guess subconsciously that's what made me press on the barrel bridge suspecting something might have been amiss here. I have a spare mainplate so I will try that one and see how it performs. Any ideas what would cause that amount of wear? I guess poor servicing history?

Thanks JDRichard, I will take a close look at that as well. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

probably wear and tear. Problem with russian watches is that while the movements are good, the cases are pathetic, offering little in the way of protecton from humidity and dust. Hence they require regular servicing.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again Anilv, I agree. I watched a video the other day of someone restoring an old omega seamaster. It looked like that watch had been rolling around in someone's toolkit for years. I was surprised to see how well the case did it's job because the dial and movement where in amazing condition. I remembered thinking that would not be the outcome if that watch had been in a Raketa or Pobeda case. Having said that, I do like the Vostok Amphibia case design, I find those to be very well engineered for diving. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...