Jump to content

Finding lost parts


Recommended Posts

Hello

I keep losing the clicksprings. My tweezers can't always hold them and sometimes they just fly away. I do use toothpicks to hold them too. I don't know if this is a stupid question, but does anyone have any advice on how to find them? Or how far they usually fly? I've recovered some, but not all and I work with cheap movement so buying new parts wouldn't make sense. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The movements I work on (Seiko 6xxx and 7xxx) usually doesn't have that kind of springs, but when they do have them (Seiko 66 or 6118 for example) I work under a transparent plastic bag so if they fly I should find them inside it.

I don't use toothpicks or pegwood to hold the spring anymore, for me it wasn't effective. Many people use a bit of rodico, and I use my finger (I wear nitrile gloves when working) covering almost all of the spring, and I use my tweezers to put the spring under tension. Then I make sure the spring stays in place while I carefully remove my finger.

To find a lost spring many people use a magnet, but I haven't tried it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Until I lost a few click-springs myself I never paid attention to the plastic bag technique mentioned above. Since I have used it, I haven't lost one click-spring. I cut a sandwich sized baggie down the sides, put the spring near its final place, cover it with the single layer baggie and manipulate the spring, through the plastic, with my tweezers. Works every time. Good luck.

On finding getaway springs, I have used the magnetic bottom on a bolt-holding tray that is used for automotive repair. It's about 6" in diameter, with a 4" magnet on the bottom. I pass it over the area under and around my bench. And it has a very good rate of success. Good luck.

Edited by MrRoundel
Add magnet note.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, MrRoundel said:

Until I lost a few click-springs myself I never paid attention to the plastic bag technique mentioned above. Since I have used it, I haven't lost one click-spring. I cut a sandwich sized baggie down the sides, put the spring near its final place, cover it with the single layer baggie and manipulate the spring, through the plastic, with my tweezers. Works every time. Good luck.

On finding getaway springs, I have used the magnetic bottom on a bolt-holding tray that is used for automotive repair. It's about 6" in diameter, with a 4" magnet on the bottom. I pass it over the area under and around my bench. And it has a very good rate of success. Good luck.

Thanks for the tip. I've ordered a big 5cm magnet. I always thought they would be expensive, but apparently not. Anyways, thanks! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, aac58 said:

The movements I work on (Seiko 6xxx and 7xxx) usually doesn't have that kind of springs, but when they do have them (Seiko 66 or 6118 for example) I work under a transparent plastic bag so if they fly I should find them inside it.

I don't use toothpicks or pegwood to hold the spring anymore, for me it wasn't effective. Many people use a bit of rodico, and I use my finger (I wear nitrile gloves when working) covering almost all of the spring, and I use my tweezers to put the spring under tension. Then I make sure the spring stays in place while I carefully remove my finger.

To find a lost spring many people use a magnet, but I haven't tried it.

Thanks for the reply. I've always thought of the bag trick, but never actually practiced it. I tried cutting holes in a box and work with it like a sandblasting cabinet. It worked for a while, but soon after I just got tired of it. Anyways thanks for the tip! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To add to the finding side of the equation: They make magnets on sticks if you'd prefer to not be on all fours while you look.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fabcell-Telescoping-Magnetic-Pickup-tool/dp/B074P1NK2X/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=magnetic+rake&qid=1588463301&sr=8-10

Not necessarily the one I have or would get, but an example of what I'm talking about.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It does better with practice. Trust me.

Try not to lose them in the first place. Good tweezers and tweezering technique are essential. Get a good set of tweezers. A fine tip, medium tip and heavy tweezers. When I say good, it doesn't mean $$$$$. My favorite tweezer cost just over $1.

A good tweezer must have tips that meet evenly. No crossbite or crooked tips. And tweezers, like screwdrivers, meed regular maintenance. 

When a part inadvertently flies off your tweezers, don't panic. Try to see the direction it flew off. Listen for any tell tale sounds of where it landed. Did it land on the bench or the floor. Personally, I hate it when it lands on the bench. Tell me, who has a clean, uncluttered benchtop. :D

I prefer that it lands on the floor. I use a flexible magnet strip about 14" long and sweep around where I was sitting. If that doesn't work, expand the search area. It usually doesn't fly more than 6 feet away.

Oh yes, check if it landed on your clothing too. I once had a screw drop inside my shoe.

-1868200218-1229985315.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Bopmd said:

 I tried cutting holes in a box and work with it like a sandblasting cabinet. It worked for a while, but soon after I just got tired of it. Anyways thanks for the tip! :)

Funny. I did something very similar. I kept having Waltham pocket watch shipper springs pinging into oblivion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember when I was following the Timezone watch school courses about 15-20 years ago. One of the first things Walt Odets described was how to make a parts sweeper.

His method was to use a magnetic knife holder that people used to stick knives to their kitchen wall, add a couple of nylon feet so that is can slide around smoothly a few mm above the surface of the floor, and attach a small handle if you prefer. You can then use this to sweep around the area and then inspect it with a loupe to see what you have unearthed! :-)  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, eccentric59 said:

Murphy's law of lost parts states the probability of looking in the correct area of your floor is inversely proportional to the size of the part. ;)

O'Toole's corollary to Murphy's law (if it can go wrong it will go wrong) states that Murphy was an optimist.....:D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything I lose is almost invariably non-magnetic! A couple of weeks ago I lost the cap jewel from the 1965 Rolex cal 1200 I was working on  which is not the easiest movement to find spares for, and found it by eye under a set of drawers. (I still have no idea how I saw it)

I then patted it with a pea sized ball of rodico to clean off any dust or oil and promptly lost it inside the rodico! It took me longer to find it in there than it did when it was on the floor! :-D :-D :-D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I lost a pallet jewel once. It was there on my work mat one moment then gone the next moment. I used a torch and searched high and low. I was on all fours for almost half an hour before I gave up. I said a silent prayer and when I was stretching out my aching back, I caught a glint on the floor just outside of my search area. It really was the missing pallet jewel. :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

So my advice is when you are already on your hands and knees, it doesn't hurt to pray. 

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...