I've been using Moebius 9415 to oil the pallet stone. I usually oils the exit pallet impulse face with the amount like you drop a little bubble on it.
I really don't know how much amount I should applied and is there any sign to tell whether I'm overoil or underoil.
I have one strange case though, the movement right after assembly has 260~270 amplitude but drop to 230 after 10 minus or so. Is this relevent to the pallet stone oiling?
Does this pallet fork look right to you folks? It seems like it should not be bent but straight. The watch barely runs with very low amplitude. Does one dare straighten it? The concern is that it came that way to work properly and I have some other problem going on? Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Im working on a Rolex cal. 2030 lady watch.
When put togheter I see that the one end stone on the pallet fork is misplaced. And the balance wheel have very small movment sideways. And stopps after 6-7 seconds.
Is the reason that the end stone is msiplaced?
Must I buy new pallet fork? This cannot be glued?
Shall I replace the escapment wheel as well?
I have a Waltham 1899 Riverside pocket watch with a broken pallet fork pivot. I'm searching for a replacement fork from a scrap movement. The movement I have is 19 jewels, built in 1906. I am challenged to find the exact same movement as a "AS IS" unit in the usual places, but I see much better selection of other Waltham 16 size movements of the same vintage - the odd 17J Riverside but many more 15J 620, and 17J 625 and 635 examples.
Can I replace the pallet fork in my Riverside with one from these lesser, but more common models?
I think we need to go back to the beginning and look at the exact procedure of everything involved with this mainspring plus any additional lubrication you're putting in the mainspring barrel? Something is not right when the laws of the universe seem to be going backwards for us
My experience with the other breaking greases were more was worse. This is what makes the Kluber Different it's really really sticky and more is more sticky. Except for this watch where it's not? But that I also question sanding the inside of the barrel your changing the characteristics. Email auto watches the inside of the barrel has cuts to reduce the contact area to make it easier for the mainspring to slip this is why this is such a weird example here lots of surface area should have lots of stickiness and we don't
Looks like a interesting video, do you have the link to it saved?
Have you looked if the part nr 4 isn't actually 2 pieces?
The lower which is in contact with the winding pinion might have a upper removable part called a crown wheel core.
I think it used to be called no 423 in other Patek movements. The core usually fitts on the upside the lower crown wheel. It has a bronze bushing fitted to it when the bridge goes into place.
If you look closely at the lower picture you can see it most likely is a two piece part.
Push in the middle of the wheel with some appropiate tool to see if it doesn't split appart.
Yes, those Esembl-O-Graf booklets/DVD, etc. would be very handy indeed. I remember seeing them being sold at NAWCC marts. But since I was only interested in pocket watches at the time, I never snagged any. I do remember a friend buying a bunch of them. Good thought. I had forgotten about them.