I've been using Moebius 9415 to oil the pallet stone. I usually oils the exit pallet impulse face with the amount like you drop a little bubble on it.
I really don't know how much amount I should applied and is there any sign to tell whether I'm overoil or underoil.
I have one strange case though, the movement right after assembly has 260~270 amplitude but drop to 230 after 10 minus or so. Is this relevent to the pallet stone oiling?
Does this pallet fork look right to you folks? It seems like it should not be bent but straight. The watch barely runs with very low amplitude. Does one dare straighten it? The concern is that it came that way to work properly and I have some other problem going on? Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Im working on a Rolex cal. 2030 lady watch.
When put togheter I see that the one end stone on the pallet fork is misplaced. And the balance wheel have very small movment sideways. And stopps after 6-7 seconds.
Is the reason that the end stone is msiplaced?
Must I buy new pallet fork? This cannot be glued?
Shall I replace the escapment wheel as well?
I have a Waltham 1899 Riverside pocket watch with a broken pallet fork pivot. I'm searching for a replacement fork from a scrap movement. The movement I have is 19 jewels, built in 1906. I am challenged to find the exact same movement as a "AS IS" unit in the usual places, but I see much better selection of other Waltham 16 size movements of the same vintage - the odd 17J Riverside but many more 15J 620, and 17J 625 and 635 examples.
Can I replace the pallet fork in my Riverside with one from these lesser, but more common models?
Beats the shit out of my 404 specials! Of all the "luxury" brands, Omega has a spot in my heart. Every ounce of "luxury" marketing turns me off hard, but for some inexplicable reason Omega gets a pass from that aversion.
When I buy/help buy cars for people, a lot of time they come to me thinking they want such and such a car, and just want validation. I would never buy a Prius, but if someone is dead set on it, the best case scenario is that I hurt their feelings telling them how the brakes are inconsistent and vague, the steering sucks, there's obviously no performance of any sort, and the same fuel economy can be had in myriad other, better cars. If they just want validation, the best I can do is validate them.
If you're seeking validation, it's a solid workhorse movement in an attractive case from a storied brand. Like others posting, I also feel there's a lot of the price tied up in marketing. While there can certainly be value in that that some may find hard to validate, it is value. I forget the exactitudes of the economic theory, but there's value in having a coveted good. If the value proposition for money works out to you, then it's a great watch for you, and you should pull the trigger if it makes you happy to do so (while also not pissing off any significant others maybe?).
What is it about the watch that you like exactly? Mayhap the same attributes exist in something without the brand premium. I've got a 2824-2 on my wrist right now in a case that I think is unique, has historic ties, from a (once) storied brand, and looks awesome with awesome functionality beyond what you typically find in a 2824-2 powered watch. I paid about a quarter the price of the Breitling new.