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JGrainger

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  1. Practice is the main thing, beyond that it's also safe to assume that every part has a purpose and will fit where it is intended (don't force anything).. this isn't always the case, particularly with 19th century watches which were rather handmade - similar screws may be found with punch marks to indicate which goes in each hole, or jewel locations, etc.. in this case the screw threads may not be identical like modern threads. On modern movements some bits like the bridge screws are pretty interchangeable, usually with a shorter screw to clear the keyless works. If in doubt take pictures, I use my phone camera for stuff which is likely to cause some questions - usually for camera shutters but it applies to anything new to me.. and having a few pictures afterwards can be nice to look back on too. I'd recommend taking a picture of the keyless works for the first few times - occasionally I still find little springs are going to be difficult to remember to get their places correct - say if they're the same size but only have some slight difference. Lastly there are some guides, forums, and blogs which can be helpful for gaining an insight into other peoples practices or solutions to problems.
  2. Your other tool may still be or have been a combined pivot file and burnisher. It depends how it's been used in the past as to what it will be like now. One or both ends may be dressed as a burnisher - depending what sort of tool they presently appear to be, if one end is still a pivot file then you may wish to keep it as one.. a pivot file is useful so I'd keep it as one if it's in even partially worn condition. Basically to dress a burnisher you could use traditional techniques such as oilstone dust on a lap with a bit of oil, or nowadays you could use a modern abrasive of a similar grade. The process creates tiny grooves in the tool from the abrasive which do a combination of really fine cutting and burnishing the pivots you apply the tool to. The burnisher would be moved across the abrasive and rolled over part way through the stroke, starting with a large face then rolled onto the next smaller face. You will see that there should be 2 sharp edges and 2 rounded edges, that will indicate which edges are rolled over and which shouldn't. It will probably take a bit of time if there are any imperfections or surface rust, etc to remove - you may choose to work on a side at a time to flatten and remove imperfections before dressing it.
  3. Hello, New lanterns can occasionally be found but it is rare. More often these tools are sold with damage to the same parts. It is possible to make or repair the parts which are damaged with a combination of tools which will generally differ by whether they include a 90 degree double angle milling cutter or a tiny drill - for grooves or holes. Off the top of my head, the depth of grooves with a 90 degree cutter is a depth of 0.65 times the desired pivot diameter. I'm assuming the issue is with the disk with tiny holes in it.. it can be possible to anneal the damaged end and to turn most of it away, leaving a boss concentric with the outer diameter which fits through the tool. The end of the boss can be tapped for a retaining screw for the new part, or the new part can be glued/ bonded on the end - both parts will want to be a nice close fit so that the new part remains concentric if drilled before being mounted to the old arbor / part of the tool. The new disk can be steel or brass (they don't see a massive amount of wear but may have abrasives embed in them, and will wear out quicker than steel). In order to drill one you'll need a way of indexing so that you can use the tools existing divisions (the star shaped part and guide). It is possible that a new disk may be able to be drilled or center drilled in place on the tool with some creativity. I've also got a jocot tool with a damaged disk, shall repair it eventually but just use another for now.
  4. These tailstocks do come up for sale occasionally. I've found the brand sometimes seems to vary more than the design, it's possible the different brands sold some of each others lathes under their own names.
  5. I literally just watched this comparison video the other day between watching videos on casemaking.. I'd have liked to have seen a comparison done on both sets of jaws as internal measurement is often less nice than external. The cheap measuring tools are good enough for their purpose.
  6. All of the watch mainsprings I'm aware of can potentially be hand wound into the barrel, some are just more tricky than others - some shapes or types of mainspring can be awkward regardless of method. Having a pre-wound mainspring is nice when everything is going to plan.
  7. Hello, I finally got round to finishing an overhead drive for my lathe, inspired by pictures of a Schaublin example. I've yet to fit locking handles while I decide whether to go for press fit / threaded in / sliding handles.. and the MDF base is still in the testing stage while I get used to the ergonomics and decide on a way of locating it onto the lathe bench. The short belt was just a length to hand, and the WW headstock will eventually be replaced by another heavier-duty DIY spindle. I'm not entirely unfamiliar with lathe based gear cutting but my own setup is still a work in progress. Overhead Drive for lathe Hardinge Cataract gear cutting in progress A new ratchet wheel for a ladies fusee watch
  8. If the base plate of the movement will be discarded afterwards then you can do whatever you like to release the dial.. a dremel springs to mind - you could try to drill out the screws, but realistically you could drill carefully around them, anywhere you like, as long as the dial is protected.. brass vs rusted steel, not that tough to cut through but the cutter may grab on the rusty steel as you go between rust and flakes of intact steel within it. Try to remove and save any bits which aren't totally destroyed. I think protecting the dial is the most challenging aspect of this, be it from chemicals (and their vapor), or tools and holding the movement.
  9. Is there sufficient endshake when the cannon pinion is fitted? - a long shot, possibly caused by wear / past replacement parts etc.
  10. Maintaining screwdriver tips was traditionally basic maintenance of tools. Usually new sets come with spares, and separate spares can often be bought.. I usually swap then occasionally have a session touching up a few of them. With non-magnetic screwdrivers the tips can last until there's a stubborn screw.
  11. I think the only thing I would add is to be careful to avoid warping / bending stakes during hardening.
  12. My own situation is that my good microscope is an aged Zeiss Opmi. It is possible to just fit a beamsplitter to use a camera while retaining the stereo eyepieces, however that's also not so cheap compared to the USB cameras. If the USB cameras have sufficient working distance they might do nicely for videoing servicing. I wasn't sure how they work - so didn't know whether they would be suitable.
  13. Nickelsilver, I specifically found an FP1 for that reason.. though a standalone drill press is handy.. shall probably get rid of the drill. JDM, I wouldn't swap it for a different type of machine.. it's small enough to just wheel through a normal doorway when the table handwheels are removed, and maybe 5' tall without a vertical head, yet rigid. There are some industrial duty swiveling castors which can be lowered onto inbuilt feet, I wonder if anyone here has used those to make the most of limited space.
  14. It sounds like you're getting there, and the hairspring looks better than some I've found in running watches. Sorry for a late response, I've been busy with some other stuff lately. Let us know if the new staff sorts it out.
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