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JGrainger

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About JGrainger

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  1. Basically what Nickelsilver said.. I actually have one of the tools with the graduated arms.. they were quickly removed after purchase and put somewhere better than on the actual tool (anywhere safe) because there's no real way to accurately calibrate and use them - I use a microscope to measure with. The hotplate is a great idea too, can also be used for convenient bluing of screws.
  2. A little bit more progress.. I've done some more machining and drawings - bring it down to size, and have started one of the two bridges.. awaiting taps, will probably utilize existing movement screws and/or some Russian watch spares if larger screwheads are required. This bridge is in two pieces and will total 3.9mm in height, which should allow room for a clutch. There isn't a lot of meat on the movement (the small size is one reason I like it but a mixed blessing), so I'm going to fasten the bottom part of this bridge to the existing screw hole on the movement and rivet an internally threaded post onto the existing part (to hold the top part of this bridge). There will possibly be another locating pin fastened to the lower part of the bridge to assist in lining up the existing plate with the two parts of the bridge.
  3. Hello, There's a sticky thread about oils in the Tools part of the forum.. the oils listed there are suitable for vintage watches as well as modern watches.
  4. In theory adding a tiny bit of shellac to a pallet jewel seems like a straight forward task, largely that (on it's own with no precise adjustment required) is pretty simple. Despite that, it does take a bit of practice - drawing the shellac into a fine point of suitable thickness so it doesn't just melt and float about in heat current above a traditional tool for the purpose.. and adding more might not be necessary. You could try reheating the pallet on a brass plate, so that the shellac reflows.. you can try sticking a bit of shellac on the plate to know when it should be warm enough to melt.
  5. I believe cases are sometimes made but it's not common due to the cost of a one-off.. it's sometimes possible to get parts or incomplete watches to use. There are a few vintage chronographs which are towards the smaller side of things - even the Seagull version of the Venus 175 may be smaller than a 7750 due to being manually wound (with some fairly small vintage cases for those), with the 150 a tiny bit smaller. The smallest vintage chronographs which spring to my mind are the Eterna 702 at 10.5L.. and the Hanhart 120 & 122 of the same size.
  6. Most of the cylinder watches are not worth a lot.. to be fair, some are quite nice but many are not, and as said, most repairers don't repair them. Over in the UK it's not so easy to sell a cylinder pocket watch to a dealer - working or not.. it seems people just don't want them for the most part. A gold example is nicer but still not highly prized unless particularly rare or special. Rare would be something early/ fitted with a ruby cylinder / a watch with a complication. I've got a load of cylinder watches but most don't work and aren't worth repairing (the working ones are often terrible timekeepers by modern standards - maybe 10 minutes a day) - one or two would be pretty enough to make a nice gift for someone who's just into that sort of thing. The watch in your pictures is actually sort of nice but the gold price is really high at the moment so it may be more expensive than that type of watch may usually dictate - due to the gold content.
  7. ..That The De Carle and Fried books are ok but a bit out of date with modern practices.. I'd suggest one of those books might be great as a later addition - if you're wanting to expand your mind a little.. but you might as well start with the best at a time when you've yet to learn habbits. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking is also alright, and possibly available for free download with some searching. The Daniels book is great but more focused on making a watch than servicing them - so there's some information missing, and other information you won't need for most watch related jobs you're likely to encounter or take on.
  8. I have read of people using solder to fill damage in case backs before plating.. I'd actually planned to eventually ask someone what sort of solder they use but now will look forward to seeing what others write about this topic
  9. Figured I'd post an update.. I've got a couple of 4th wheels to extend - decided to try fitting a longer pivot on one, and turning the other down to fit an extension onto another, but that would require me to remove a 4th wheel jewel and cut through the plate, then use an additional bridge to support a short pivot above the new 4th wheel extension.. it's only a small movement with pivot diameters optimised for the relatively light usual loads. I'm not sure how many extra bridges this will all add, so am focusing on making enough parts to get the height of a new bridge over the 1st wheel with a Daniels/ Rolex inspired clutch above it. The clutch pinion is presently too long but is helpful for figuring out how short/ low it can be remade.. the sketch was "off the top of my head" and I allowed too much height for components - even my thinner (than sketched 1 to 0.55mm) clutch piece will be remade thinner.. total clutch height may be nearly halved.
  10. I think there's some old story of Napoleon having his broken watch stored in oil until it could be repaired - haven't bothered to look it up or check though
  11. Hello, There's a book in German which can be used for identifying movements, Das Flume - System , (Rudolf Flume). Mine is a 1963 print of the 1958 edition but I suspect there are older editions which are more relevant to earlier and (particularly) pocket watch movements. It's in sections - upto 1947 / 52/ 57, along with escapement type and is further divided.. you can look in the relevant age section and count the holes in the little plate which retains the keyless works, and work your way up in diameter - there's a picture of each movement with the under dial view. I have checked but this movement is a bit early for my edition.
  12. Thank you for your advice, Today (between other stuff) I fitted a new longer pivot, it was actually over 2mm with the intention to reduce as necessary but part way through burnishing the pivot part it snapped. I've re-drilled it and started to drill a spare - hoping to turn and fit a new extended pivot tomorrow.. I might increase the hole a little too
  13. I'd bought some PCB drills a bit back for general use which were to hand so thought I'd try them. The PCB drills fit in a pin vice with the tailstock centre as a guide.. ..I am hoping to try carbide spade drills once my normal work has resumed but hadn't realised there would be such advantages to using them.. it sounds like they would do a nice job on this and reduce the risk of binding too. This evening I've removed the 4th wheel pivot and drilled it to accept an extended pivot onto which I'll fit a friction fitted wheel, that is not a through-hole but of reasonable depth for repivoting. Is there a standard length to pivot ratio for the new extended part of the pivot which protrudes through the bridge plate? - I'm thinking of making it stand proud of the bridge by 1.5 to 2mm so that a friction fitted wheel boss will fit. Is it worth adding a bit of glue to the new pivot?
  14. That was impressive dial work
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