Jump to content

Runs only when crown pressed


Lc130

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I'm a beginner having "serviced" about ten watches.  I didn't kill the last five or so.  They were "non runners" that needed a clean and oil.  These were all late '60s early '70s movements.

I'm interested in the one pictured below which appears a bit older.  Description says  that it runs only when pressure applied to the crown.  At this point in my learning,  I can't see the connection.  Any ideas?  

Thank you

Charlie 

 

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.7900f671cf248ae7e9e2a2ea9656d5cc.jpg

 

1511068728_s-l1600(1).thumb.jpg.66275d8733f81f3f08ed64f2aca546d1.jpg

Edited by Lc130
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, the pressure of the stem on the setting mechanism and wheels must release some of the friction built up allowing the movement to run. Maybe gunk... or maybe someone serviced it and messed up the wheels/CP.

As always, the fact that it does run one way or another is a good sign that you should be able to save it.

 

Good luck!!

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with JD and Jguitron.   A mulfunction somewhere is set mech and min trian.

The return bar is to bring back the siding pinion( also called castle pinion ,slides pinion on square sect of stem) so to disengage the min train from stem in wind position.  In which case, if you remove the stem, the watch should run. Make sure there is enough wind before removing stem. If no good, the fault is in the min train.

Regards 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Lc130 said:

Hi All

I'm a beginner having "serviced" about ten watches.  I didn't kill the last five or so.  They were "non runners" that needed a clean and oil.  These were all late '60s early '70s movements.

I'm interested in the one pictured below which appears a bit older.  Description says  that it runs only when pressure applied to the crown.  At this point in my learning,  I can't see the connection.  Any ideas?  

Thank you

Charlie 

 

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.7900f671cf248ae7e9e2a2ea9656d5cc.jpg

 

1511068728_s-l1600(1).thumb.jpg.66275d8733f81f3f08ed64f2aca546d1.jpg

   before jumping into this one,  you should study  a watchmaking book or video.  good luck,  Charlie .  vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Vin,  the last I’ve worked on is AS1700, UTC33 and Seiko 6119.  Thanks to forum help, they’re all apparently working reasonably well.  What should be most aware of with this one?...which I did buy.

Ive learned a lot from Mark’s videos

Thank you

Charlie

Edited by Lc130
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

L C,  I am not sure if I understand the seller correct. runs only if pressure is applied to the crown

Dose he mean pressure applied turning the crown like if its fully wound and then some more, or pushing on the crown? Will you clarify on that. I presumed the latter. I think its an AS1188, big chunky movement, sort of a work horse. 

You say old, that darked discolored ebauche would shine like new once you clean it.

I got one, whcih I soaked in kerosene several days and brushed several times, then soaked in paint thinner for ten min and brushed repeated then burnished, looks much cleaner.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Runs when pressure is put on crown."

Could be any of the following (and indeed something else entirely :P )

1) Turning the crown on its axis as if winding, causes tension on the spring and the watch runs, releasing the crown causes loss of tension, due to broken or missing click spring. Possibly an easy fix.

2) Turning the crown puts pressure on the mechanism, but the main spring is broken, or perhaps just completely filthy, runs erratically for a couple of seconds. Possibly a less easy fix, maybe clean, possibly replace the main spring, but still fixable.

3) Inward pressure on the crown causes the crown to seat correctly, this would cause a hackable movement to start running, but dirt or a damaged seal might then cause the crown to pop back out. Easy fix. Clean stem, crown and keyless work.

4) Inward pressure on the crown causes the keyless work to sit correctly, but a misaligned or broken spring in the keyless work causes it to pop back out when the pressure is removed. Fix.. re-seat or replace the spring in the keyless work. Possibly easy, possibly not.

5) Inward pressure on the crown causes the watch to run, because it has the wrong stem fitted, or has a badly worn, bent or damaged stem, which is binding up the watch, the pressure releases whatever is trapped, allowing the watch to run. Fix.. replace the stem. In my experience any attempt to straighten it will result in it snapping, even if you heat it first. Take pictures of the stem before you attempt any repair.

6) The balance fork is damaged or missing, winding pressure on the stem causes the hands to fly round like a demented politician negotiating an alternative brexit. Fix, replace the balance fork.

7) Something else... :D

In summary, there is a 99% chance it is fixable.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol.. that wasn't a small list Andy. I'm sure with a run through like that it will be running like a cup of sooth butter in the desert.
I took a look at a similar Venus i had lying around it had a FHF 284 movement in it, will be interesting to see how this is developing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

considering this is not a hacking movement i would agree with JD, if it is hacking then the crown is not seated correctly and the watch is hacking......but i will put my money on it that it has a dirty stuck mainspring vert common on these older watches i see all the time, and the seller means putting pressure on the crown as if your trying to wind the watch, that pressure basically forces energy on to the train forcing it to tick, once crown is let go the tension comes off and the watch stops. in this case the mainspring will need to be changed or cleaned, oiled, and re installed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My money is on the mainspring too. You like changing mainsprings, don't you Charlie? I like Andy's option 6 too, bit only because of the comedy.

That is a lovely looking watch. It's going to be a gem once you get it up and running, I'm sure. Quite jealous actually.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @JohnR725 has pointed out many times that the Swiss don't care about amplitude, the timekeeping is the most important.  Give yourself a  pat on the back, great beat error and timekeeping, nothing to be disappointed about. 
    • I'm bothered but I agree he's a busy man and I don't want to bother him.  In the meantime, we really do need to have other ways of contacting each other  
    • This is as complicated as epilame, too many unknowns. The life expectancy in the UK is circa 80, so most people from 1944 or earlier are dead.  Assume they had children at circa 20, they died in 2004. Their children started selling 1944 watches in 2004, so pre-1944 watches must be getting more rare.   It doesn't work though because as you stated some were sold as tat, but since watch prices have increased people have decided to sell when they may not of done in the past. 
    • I was wondering whether anyone could assist with some questions I have about my latest acquisition, which is a two train ‘Bravingtons Renown’ mantel clock - Pics attached I have done some reading about Bravingtons and believe they sourced movements from various suppliers, so I wondered whether anyone recognises this one. I have stripped and cleaned the movement and the clock is now running well, but there are a couple of dodgy brass springs that I would like to replace. I haven’t found anything suitable searching the internet so I wondered does anyone know of a supplier that might help. Last question is about the veneer on the case, it is generally in reasonable condition but there are a couple of patches on the top where the veneer has lifted. So far, I have tried to reactivate the existing adhesive by heating from below and above with a hair drier, then clamping for a day or two. It has improved slightly but the bulge is still visible. I’d be grateful for any advice if anyone has dealt with this sort of repair before.
    • Hi some pictures o& the movement and case would be appreciated so we can ascertain what the problem is you are having in fitting the movement.   Thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...