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I have a 7T32 watch that got given to me recently and I love it. I got about 3 to 4 weeks of solid use out of it before it stopped one day. I did the reset and it worked again for about 2 minutes. No low battery indication, nothing and it's a new battery. Chrono/alarm still work and if I change the time and click the crown back in it works for a few hours. Anyway. I have looked for a replacement movement etc but found nothing. I stumbled upon the Miyota movements (0Sxx range) and clones thereof, but have no idea if they would fit the case or not. I don't really care if the alarm doesn't work, or if the two pushers on the side don't work as long as it doesn't cause any permanent alterations to the case. Would they work as a replacement?? I'm used to small, tedious work so I am looking at replacing the movement myself as there are not many watch repair places around me that will work on it. The ones that will, I might as well buy a new watch for what they want to charge me just to look at it. Does anyone know, or have any alternate suggestions? (And no, paying the price of a new chrono for one of the two or three 7T32 movements out there that are left doesn't make sense for me personally).
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Hello watch bangers! Its been a while because I have decided to change my project schedule a bit but nevertheless, I bring you my most recent watch! This Report will be focusing on my work on an old Citizen watch with a Miyota 8200 movement! Next to the usual service features such as crystal replacement, lubrication and cleaning, I will also be talking a little about dial feet repairs since this watch needed one! Nevertheless, for you lazy people out there, here is the 4k fully commented video on Youtube: Overwise enjoy the read! Arrival status: Here is the watch when it first arrived on my work table Here is a list of what is wrong with this poor old watch: - Missing front crystal and dirty case back crystal - Detached hands - Misaligned dial - Non-Running movement So as you can see this is quite alot of work, but we will be covering all of this and the result definitely are worth it! Disassembly: 1.Removed the detached hands to protect them and screwed open the case back. 2.Removed the case, the dial spacer and the dial ( which had no dial feet attached anymore) and strapped the movement into the holder. 3.Took off the golden day wheel clip and the day wheel. 4.Unscrewed and removed the date cover to reveal all the setting subsystems. 5.Removed the date wheel by releasing tension on its little spring. 6.Took off the date spring and the two quick date and day levers. 7.Off with the canon pinion and the minute and whole wheel. 8.Removed the stem setting system ( Yoke and setting lever) as well as the translation to the canon pinion ( the two translation wheel and their cover). 9.Finally removed the clutch to complete the front side disassembly, well except for the balance jewel! 10.Flip the movement and remove the Rotor. I was really lucky and had a green gilden rotor on this miyota 8200! Loved the look of it! 11.Removed the complete balance. Loved the cool contrast of the round balance shape to the square jewel cap! 12. Undid the pallet fork bridge and lifted both of them away. Pallet fork jewels looked good under x20 magnification. 13. Unscrewed the brutalistically designed main bridge and took it off to be able to dig into the inner gear works. Took off all the gear leading from the escapement to the mainspring and moved on the to the ratchet system. 14.Removed the ratchet system and moved on to the Mainspring barrel and winding wheel which where both removed. 15.Here,I came to the final sub bridge where I removed the sweeping second pinion . 16. Lastly, I removed the final bridge and the underlying wheel which went through the mainplate. With this 99% of the disassembly was done! You can see all the parts (Around 75 I think) assorted in my sorting box! Mainspring As always, I did not have a spare mainspring at hand not did I plan on getting a new one so we once again go to servicing the mainspring! Unwound it out of the barrel and it came out pretty decent, maybe a few small nicks and unevenness but nothing major! After a manual rub down in lighter fluid and alcohol and the following lubrication of its whole length and the barrel insides, carefully wound it back inside to get this result: Cleaning Since I have decided to just keep going with the manual cleaning method, It is the usual process! A good soak in lighter fluid followed by a rinse in isopropanol alcohol. I of course did not include the balance or the pallet fork into this methodology since the alcohol could dissolve the shellac used in the jewel adhesion. I just gave them a good lighter fluid bath! Lubrication All the lubrication I used: Moebius 9010 - Basically All jewel bearing Moebius 8200 - Mainspring lubrication and barrel bottom and under the barrel lid. Moebius 8217 - Mainspring barrel grease Moebius 9415 - A miniscule amount on the palletfork jewel tips Moebius HP 1300 - Slower moving contact points such as: Metal barrel bearing, canon pinion and hour pinion sides Molycote DX - Heavy contact points mainly in the gearless setting system. Reassembly: Just follow the disassembly steps and you should be good! Dont forget to clean and lubricate the balance shock jewels. I haven't really taken any pictures of that process but they will be coming in the following reports! Here is one right after I did the whole process: Dial feet Repair: Now dial feet repair was quite a big issue for me since I always buy used watches and their parts online. And very often I would be super enthusiastic about a lovely looking dial that I snagged just to get it and realize that the dial feet are snapped off. And since I dont like glueing dial and not even mentioning the fact that glueing dials on watches withd ay/date complication being basically impossible anyways, I had to find another way. After some research, I decided to go into the field of resoldering the dial feet onto the dials. Now this has alot of variables which decide if it works out without ruining the dial ( dial material, print, cover, thickness etc..). I went onto my balcony and used a little tools holder, solder, copper wire, safety goggles, soldering paste to solder the copper wire used as a replacement to the dials again. Here are a few pictures of the balcony: And here of the “fixed” dial, even though the back does look absolutely demolished. You dont see that side though hehe. I wont write down the whole process here but I probably will do a more in depth one on a separate post in the proper forum. Timegrapher Test: After everything came back together, it was time to test my work on the good old timegrapher! Here is the result right after reassembly without any regulation: And here it the watch post-regulation: The low Amplitude is probably a mixture of the mainspring not being replaced and not being wound fully! Im also not very satisfied with the slight background noise with is visible on the graph ( just because I like my lines neat and straight haha). Oh and I regulate the watches to their best performance in two position. So once dial up and once dial down. Everything else really is outside of my skill, ressource and patience level xD Final Results So here are the final results of the restored watch! I did end up buying a fitting original citizen stainless steel bracelet but I did not have the chance to use my works camera to capture pictures. Anyhow, the pictures of the watch still look great to enjoy the view! Conclusion So in conclusion, working on this watch was a nice experience! It was cool to show you guys the movement since this was the last movement of a 6 watch lot which I finished off! I loved the brutalistic but kind of aesthetic design on the parts so shout out to the people at Miyota. Im writing this up last minute since im going on holidays tomorrow and I havent done anything in terms of packing or cleaning so i'm sorry for the shallow and short finish! Hope you guys enjoyed the write up and hopefully the video! Criticism, comments, tipps and anything else really can be put into the comments below! Enjoy the next weeks and see you watchbangers for the next watch!
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Hi everybody, I'm on a very simple project. I would like to assemble a watch. I have look at "Build Your Own Automatic Watch - Using parts from eBay" who was very clear and well done! I would like to put a Miyota 8N24 in a case who can fit a Miyota 8215, since I don't find any case specialise for the 8N24. This two movement have the same diameter but the 8215 have bigger height. 5.67mm vs 5.55mm fopr the 8N24 On the "shemas" they seems to have the same base, but I'm clearly not an expert. I realy want too biuld a watch with a Miyota since I like japanese watches. Thank you for your advise ! OwL
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Hi Everyone! I have been practicing watch servicing these past months. So far I have successfully serviced a ST36 (ETA6497 clone), thanks to Mark's watch repair course which is awesome! I have also tried to service a NH25A, and messed up the hairpsring (replacement on the way), and a Miyota 8215. Everything was going well with the 8215 until I reassembled the train bridge and noticed that the escape wheel wobbles when I turn the wheels. My guess is that I accidentally broke off the upper pivot during cleaning. I was looking for a replacement escape wheel and found it at Cousin's, but they are out of stock. Anyone know any other place I could get one? Thanks. PS: Trying to keep a positive attitude after messing up two movements, but practice makes perfect. :)
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Hi everyone! I am currently in the process of building my first watch. I have sourced the parts from ebay and decided to go with a Miyota 8215 movement. I believe I have everything I need, have learned a lot from watching the videos , however I am still scratching my head on a white movement ring that the Miyota came with (picture attached). Is this the dial spacer ring or does it function as both a movement ring and dial spacer? The case I purchased comes with a movement ring (however I have to purchase the clamps and screws, which I have already found on Esslinger). If this is not a dial spacer, I am assuming I would need one so the date ring doesn’t get stuck, however I am uncertain if the dial spacer is totally necessary. Thanks in advance! Guido
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Hey everyone, I cant find out how to get this drown off and I've tried everything. The Miyota JS25 movement says PUSH and points to a hole which I've learned means this is where you press to reease the crown but I still can't get the crown out no matter which position the crown is in. I first tried with the crown all the way out then with it halfway in, then all the way in and haven't been able to get it out, please help.
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Hello watchmakers! I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch. I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor.. It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job.. Any advice would be helpful thank you.
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Is it possible to purchase parts for a Citizen 8228A (Miyota) movement. I have a rather beat up old example, which is missing the tip of one of the winder gears. I suspect the answer is going to be, no, you would need to find the parts from another damaged example. I did look on Cousins, but the part I need is not listed. Initially I suspected the only issue with it was the balance, and spent a little time tickling the hairspring back into shape, only to then figure out that while the winder made the right noises, it wasn't actually driving the mainspring, due to the missing pinion tip.
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Hello! By any chance, does anyone have the service manual / troubleshooting for the Citizen U600 movement? Thank you, Bogdan
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My Beuchat Apnea has been a work horse for nearly 10 years (bought it the 11th Feb 2008)...up until a few month ago when condensation appeared inside after a shower (which isn't that great for a diver ). I let it to rest in a warm (not too hot) place with the crown unscrewed and the water disappeared. Worked for a few more weeks and that was it.Today, it only ticks when I wind it : the second hands moves while I manually wind it and stops as soon as I let the crown go. (That makes me think there's something wrong with the main spring...which makes me think it's unrelated to the shower incident).When I unscrew the back, I don't see anything obviously wrong (by that, I mean I didn't end up with a spring in my eye).For the price of a service, I can buy some tools and actually learn some skills. I know some will think it's a bad idea but I insist on doing it myself, hopefully with your guidance. Would you guys be able to guide me through that? I think it's a Miyota 8215 (Miyota, I'm sure, it's written on it )
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My engagement watch was a Briel, which turns out to have a 0S60 Miyota movement. I paid goldsmiths to replace the battery, boy what a mistake. When I collected it the crown came off in my hand. Goldsmith said they can't repair!!! They paid me £250. So this is when I did some research and took the back off the watch. I believe the stem is still in the watch. But I think I can repair by replacing the stem and crown. I still have the crown. Could some one advise what stem I need and how can I attach the crown, doesn't appear to have a thread but I think it should have. I can get more photos if needed. Many thanks
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Hi all! After introducing myself I started out with demounting the AS1900 movement. I now came to a point to assemble a watch by my own. I bought the Miyota 8215 series movement (pictures in attachment). I really want to make a dress watch. Therefore i'm searching for a fitting case with dial and hands. My question is now, before I purchase all products, does the 8215 movement fit with the following case and dial? Movement is the image in the attachment: (already purchased) Case: http://www.wenping1970.com/40mm-watch-case-sapphire-glass-fit-dg2813-3804-eta-2836-miyota-82-seriesp488_p1527.html Dial: http://www.wenping1970.com/debert-345mm-white-dial-fit-miyota-82-seriesmingzhu-dg2813-movement-mens-watch_p1533.html Hands: http://www.wenping1970.com/debert-watch-hands-fit-eta-2836dg2813-3804miyota-82-series-movement-mens-watch_p1531.html If you have any other suggestions for buying the case/dial/hands for this specific movement, I really would love to hear about it. Have a nice weekend! Kind regards, Jorick
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I am looking for a stem/crown for a Miyota quartz movement (see attached). Why does Miyota seldom write the movement's part number on the movement? Can anyone help? It goes inside a cheap Nelsonic LAX 766 watch.
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Hi everyone. I'm servicing a TIAHUA watch, the movement is a Miyota GL02 with 3 hands and day/date at 3. Does anyone know where I can source one, or know its equivilent replacement? Regards to all
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Miyota Automatic Service - "Three Screws to Rule Them All" Now for something completely different, a Japanese Automatic from Miyota. This is a budget driver's watch from a fashion brand called Scorpion, and I had no idea what I'd find when I removed the caseback :huh: Whatever! I just wanna work on watch movements, increase my knowledge, and the repertoire of movements I've had experience with. It's also a blessing to post these to help people with reference photos and walkthrough of various movements. When put on the timegrapher, it was quickly obvious that this movement was not running well at all. Extremely low amplitude, high beat error, and a graph that looks like the pepper in your mash potatoes :P Well, it happened to be a Miyota Automatic Movement ... I have no idea of the caliber, as there are no stampings on any of the plate ... beside the brand name. Once removed from the case, I pulled the Hands... ...and then the Dial. After that, I flipped it over and removed the oscillating weight to get a better look at the movement itself. Notice anything scary about this already?? There are only 3 screws holding the complete movement together!! :o Ack!! Visions of the Seiko 5J22A Kinetic "Auto Relay" , with it's 9 pivot gear train plate flashed before my eyes!! This was NOT going to be fun putting back together :P But I do so love a challenge. As per usual, I removed the tension from the Mainspring, and removed the Balance and Fork. Note: The red arrow is pointing to a very thin spring which you pull back to disengage the Click. Here's a closer reference photo of it after I'd pulled the plate off So as the title says ... Three Screws to Rule Them All .... Bam! The whole movement has to be located into ONE plate, that's only held by three screws ... this is not Rolex quality gentlemen ^_^ After tipping the movement up-side-down and telling the complete movement fall onto the desk (just kidding), you are left with only the Centre Wheel. Once the Centre Wheel Bridge was removed, the fault with the movement running so badly came to light ... RUST on the lower piviot! Rust also on the Pinion Over to the Calendar and Keyless Work ... looking way over complicated for a simple Date Wheel, as all the springs are there for a day complications as well; minus just the Day Wheel :( ... Gotta love cheap movements. Reference photos of the Keyless Work. One last thing to note with this movement. The setting lever is riveted into the Main Plate, so it's not able to be removed. Well this little gem is in the Watch Cleaner, and I've got a few weekend chores to do, so I'll put it back together tonight and post the results later. Hope you enjoyed this write-up, and got a few giggles out of it as well :)