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About DrG

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  1. Awesome!! Very cool. A kinetic movement from Fossil. Would like to get one of those. Thanks for sharing!!
  2. Thank you all for the advice! Will definitely get this one serviced by a professional!
  3. Hi! The case usually will specify the dial diameters that it can accommodate. This is usually based on the dial slots within the case. As stated in the previous replies, you can use a caliper to measure the inside of the case, however if this is your first build, I would look into the case specified dial diameters. Remember that the primary component of the watch, the movement, will dictate which dial, case, and hands you will use. When I built my first watch, I used a Miyota 8215 and then chose the case, dial, and hands specifically for that movement. There are tons of options on ebay. If you want you can look into my post on my first watch build, as I provided links to the different parts (First Build). My advice would be to choose your movement and then look for cases, hands, and dials specifically for that movement and choose the dial size depending on the tolerances for that particular case. Best, guido
  4. Hi everyone! Yesterday my dad sent me a box full of his watches for me to practice and repair on. To my surprise, he sent a separate box with his original Seiko Pogue and a letter telling me that he wanted me to have it. Very emotional for me, as this is my father’s favorite watch. I kindly ask for advice on how to restore this timepiece. I feel comfortable changing the gaskets and perhaps the crystal. I would like to change the hands, as they have lost the lume, however they are original. The movement service I am afraid to take on, as I am an amateur/beginner and don’t want to damage it. The dial I think has a nice vintage patina. The bezel insert was replaced once, as the original was completely faded. The guy who serviced it last time (almost 10 years ago) did not do a good job and lost the inner bezel gear that goes in the stem. I found a replacement and could replace that myself. Thank you in advance and any advice is more than welcome. here is a picture.
  5. Thank you for the advice. That’s what happened to me. The kelyless works came undone with the winding gear displaced completely. Here is a foto of the backside of the dial with the movement model.
  6. Hi. Thank you. I am really getting into this hobby. I bought the watch at fossil store so I guess its the real deal. I did read somewhere that Fossil was now using Seagull movements, but I can’t ascertain if this is true.
  7. My father in law sent me a Fossil watch my wife and I had given him as a gift. It is a model ME3052 and he told me it was not working. Upon receiving the watch, I immediately noticed the rotor was loose inside and banging around everywhere. Apparently it came loose after the watch fell. I opened it up and the rotor had caught in the escapement, damaging the balance spring and wheel. Since the watch had sentimental value, I decided to fix it. Obviously the movement had no model number or any marking of which I could make out the movement model. I knew it was a Chinese skeleton, of which there are a million models online. After several days of research and almost giving up, out of pure luck I glanced at the backside of the dial and saw TY2723 marked. I typed it online and bingo! That was the movement model. I could only find two places which stocked it and decided to go with Esslinger. After the movement arrived I assembled everything. I was almost done when I placed the crown and it wouldn’t go in. After some tinkering it finally went in. I was happy, but when I flipped the case, the winding gear was loose inside the case. Apparently it dislodged when putting in the crown. I decided to give it a shot and fix it. Mind you I had never taken apart a movement, let alone a skeleton stem assembly. It was difficult and I assembled it wrong several times before finally understanding how everything works. It was good that I had the older movement, cause I lost some tiny screws in the process. I think the hardest part was getting the little spring which drives the clutch lever in place. Anyways, I put it all together and the watch works great. Teaching point: Don’t take on a skeleton movement as your first fix. Hahaha Just wanted to share the experience with you guys, cause I was so happy I was able to fix it. Below are some pictures.
  8. DrG

    Invicta Mod

    Thank you. Dial and hands are from Dagaz, superb quality! https://www.dagazwatch.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3654766
  9. DrG

    Invicta Mod

    Thanks. To place the hands I use Rodico to set them in place and a manual hand setting tool to press them down. My and removal tools are also manual levers. Don’t use anything fancy for hand setting. Thanks again!
  10. Hi everyone. Just wanted to share my watch for the day. Always wanted an Orange Doxa divers. So took it upon myself to do a mod that I could be proud of. After some research I decided to mod an Invicta 8926 with a NH35a movement. Just wanted to share the result with you guys. Best, Guido IMG_8200.HEIC
  11. DrG

    First watch

    Hi everyone. Here are the links to the parts. Links https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273866714827 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183819455737 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182507476364 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172822689288
  12. DrG

    First watch

    Thank you. Indeed the minute hand stands out, that was more of a personal choice regarding the divers style I was going for.
  13. DrG

    First watch

    Thanks. All parts were sourced on eBay. I will provide the links later on.
  14. DrG

    First watch

    Thank you. In regards to the minute hand. Yes I wanted it to be readily identifiable. I was going for a divers style orange hand, which is relied upon heavily for keeping track of dive time. The larger hand makes it easily identifiable underwater and the orange color is the last the loose its hue/color underwater.
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