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Yes it does, but not enough to endanger the fitting of the pivot into the hole. Burnishing removes the faint marks left in the steel after turning/alteration due to wear or cutting a new pivot. It creates an extremely fine finish, like a mirror finish. It also helps in the rotation of the pivot, preventing it from binding in the hole. If you gauged before and after I don’t think it would change, providing the work has been carried out correctly.

SC like South Carolina?

Wearing my Invicta Quartz Pro Diver today. One of the few Invicta's that aren't gaudy and pretentious or enormously oversized. This is also 1 of the only 3 quartz based watches I own. On a side note, I also carry a pocket watch every day. This is my only Waltham. It is a model 1883 made in the last half of 1892. This was my very first 18s watch.

I've made a number of new additions to the K and D Inverto staking tool reference site including:Section for Inverto accessories1958 version of the K&D tools catalogHigh-resolution photographs of a Inverto Deluxe 18RTwo C.& E. Marshall staking tool catalogs (large format and small format) with stake and stump listsAt this point, I've exhausted all of my reference materials. If anyone has any references that I haven't posted and is willing to share, please let me know.

As soon as I saw this part I thought "isn't that a regulator?!". A quick search and you'll see what I mean: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arrow-Register-Regulator-Ref-300-Sh-Al-11-1-5-Russo-Automatic/223510751654 ! I suspect you're already looking forward to a couple of hours of filing on the calendar plate, and I realise a regulator may be too thin, but maybe worth a second look in your spares box in case this idea offers another avenue!

Today I'm wearing my Accutron Hummer. It is a 1974 218D. This is technically a resto-mod as I sourced the movement, case, dial and hands separately though they are all period correct. The strap is a super comfy aftermarket leather one with a butterfly clasp. It's a bit finicky to keep consistantly running. It definitely needs a proper service by an experienced Accutron person. It will randomly stop humming and it takes several taps on the side of the case to get it started again. I have an Omega Hummer on layaway that I should have in my possession by December, I'll be sure to share that too.

I didn't know about that Citizen Jet, thanks for the heads up.

I’m inclined to agree with what JohnR says. But I’d also like to add some of my own cynicism which is that I think that the snake oil manufacturers will sell you anything if they can see a gap in the market. But, I can see why it makes sense to have something very slippery and less likely to be pushed away than a light synthetic oil. That possibly is more important for high beat movement where there is a greater velocity. With regards to “which is best”, I don’t think anyone should offer any opinions unless they have revisited work they have completed over a span of several years. I’ve been using 9415 for several years, but I’m yet to investigate its effectiveness long term.

I've had this Invicta for over a year and I just now noticed it has a Swiss made movement. Even happier with this watch, lol.

Speaking of mangling hairsprings, I was timing an Invicta NH35 I got from a pawn shop and my tool slipped and I ended up creating an awesome 90° bend in the hair spring. Thankfully it was only $5. I still have yet to order a new complete balance, it's on my to do list, lol. Handsome watch @yankeedog! I've had my eye on a Russian Kirovskie that has similar indices. I should grab one.

I have a pro diver I rescued from a thrift shop. It required a new movement and crystal. I considered the investment worthwhile. It's actually a decent watch which only lacks a screw down crown. Be careful when cleaning that dial! The letters are not glued on well..I now own an. IN C A. The daily watch today is what I believe to be a piquette antichoc..the previous owner obliterated the logos. It is running a lorsa p72a. Be careful when working on these. The hair springs are delicate. Don't let the balance wheel dangle. You WILL mangle the hairspring..Dont ask me how I know.

Any oil is better than no oil. When the 9415 came into existence it was specifically recommended for higher frequency watches. The problem with horological lubrication and the tech sheets are they could be almost 100 years old. More than likely anything in the last 50 years is going to seem like a relatively modern tech sheet. But the consequence of this is lubrication requirements specifications etc. have changed over the last hundred years which leads to lots of confusion as the tech sheets are all going to point to different lubricants. It also doesn't help that the various manufacturers have their own recommendations. So currently 9415 seems to be the universal recommendation for everything.

Hi Jason and welcome to the happy factory < this isn't actually me !

I've got another 2 en-route to me. I think I speak for many of us here when I say I'm especially attracted to rare, unusual and sometimes odd timepieces. I have a mid 60's, automatic, Citizen Jet, 25 jewel on it's way. For those that don't know, the jet has a very unique winding rotor where instead of the ubiquitous center pivot attachment, The jet uses a radially machined gear and the entire rotor is free to spin with no mounted pivot point. Finally, There is a vintage "Squadron" race/rally watch on it's way. This one has the pop-out movement housing and what appears to be the original plastic Rally strap. Should be fun!

Hi Jason welcome to the forum.

Hey Just had another go after listening to members thoughts. heres pics of my next attempt Thanks everyone gary

After cutting with and end nipper I clean up with a fine diamond knife hone.

Any cutter would work. I use a Bahco side cutter . Cut it a little longer and use a pin vice to hold it and a diamond sanding plate to sand it down to the right length .

I use the Precitec stem cutting pliers.

That's the implication of the presence of both columns in the cross reference, but I've not personally verified that this is the case.

So does this mean that modern Bergeon punches are compatible with the K&D staking sets?