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The old iron disease has got me in a death grip. I just can't go past a nice old machine and leave well enough alone. Anyway, great fun and lots of new projects added to the list to spruce these up. I was out of the house at 5:30 last weekend on a mission, got a Levin lathe, Hauser pivot polisher and a baby Jones Shipman cylindrical grinder. Some need a bit of work and cleaning, but most of the major bits are there. Snagged a nice 10mm Levin, don't really need another lathe, but this thing was so nicely accessorized I couldn't pass it up. Two Variable speed Levin drives, spindle and accessories, coolant, collect closer, tons of collets, 4 jaw, 3 jaw, faceplate, steady, milling attachment, turret tailstock, 2nd op double crosslide and the pièce de résistance, the drilling tailstock. This has its own drive and fine adjustment in two planes so you can perfectly centre it to the lathe's spindle. Its also got the threading attachment but no gears. The power pack is mess, as is the motor. Insulation in and out of the motor has crumbled, something shorted. I think I will scrap it and use a new 3Pp motor and vfd, but bury the vfd in the OEM control and use all the OEM controls so it look correct. Next is a Hauser pivot burnisher. You put a clock or watch wheel and shaft (takes 8mm collets), it spins it in collet at one end and jacot at the other and floods with with oil while you bring down a spinning carbide wheel to burnish the pivot (bearing journal). There's a very precise depth stop on the carbide wheel so you can control diameter. With an inverter and motor connected as delta this should be easy to get running King of the cool is the grinder. This is a Jones Shipman 520, a table top cylindrical grinder. Beautifully made piece, cross feed is graduated in tenths. It came with internal and external quils and holders, both centres and the workhead as well as an adapter so it'll take 8mm collets. It has flood and both the regular and internal attachments. The external is mounted and internal is on the bench will the quill is on the wood box. There's a busted oil cup I have to make parts for and figure the drive There is a huge overhead drive for this shown in my driveway, I can barely lift it. The drive is upside down, not shown are the uprights the drive mounts on so it sort of hovers over the machine. The idea is the motor is separated from the grinder and you can spin both the spindle and work. Not sure what I'll do here, store the drive and hook up something modern - fractional ho 3p with vfd and small countershaft (grinding spindle and work get drive in opposite directions) Last photo is it sitting on top of my horizontal mill to show how small it is - a cylindrical grinder you can pick up and carry!

There you have it, FHF 175, Cousins has all the barrel parts. If you wonder, the index markings were for timing at the factory, before the timegrapher was invented or universally adopted.

Yups the pictures just shows how it is fastened. Since the topic been handled before I didn't post more. Here is the link to the previous post..

The spring is the wrong way round. That shape of spring is known as a shepherd’s crook. VWatchie has put up some very good clear photos for you so you can see. His first one of the three is for your movement.

That spring is a "yoke spring" also known as a "return bar spring". It presses on the yoke/return bar. Make sure you get the yoke in place first, then the yoke spring, and finally place a bit of grease between the spring and the yoke where they meet. Do not grease before the spring is in place. Also, you must assemble the winding pinion, sliding pinion (also known as the clutch), and stem before you assemble the yoke and the yoke spring. Here are some pictures that you might find useful: OMEGA cal. 601 VOSTOK cal. 2409 AS cal. 1203

I currently have 3 Landeron 48 movements without cases that are working and I need cases for them. I have searched ebay and the only cases I can find cost more than the movements. Does anyone know of a source for used cases? I don't care if they are in great condition as long as they are complete or just missing the crystal. Like many of you, I do this as a hobby and don't have a lot of money to invest. So I need them to be as affordable as possible. Thanks for any info.

If it works you don't need a new mov't but just a Seiko 354.576 stem, and an adaptable crown. Both items are available from Cousins UK. Note, even quartz mov't would need service but most people does not want to take an expense that is greater than the cost of a new watch.

Looking at your pictures I found what I was looking for so I've snipped out the interesting ones. Looking at the images attached you'll notice that your hairspring is touching the backside of the regulator pin. It also looks like your terminal curve is distorted. In the video I gave you he clearly shows how to make the terminal curve but you have to be careful in that each watch is different. So for that I went looking on eBay to see if anyone had nice picture is of a balance complete. Currently on eBay there are quite a few balance completes a couple have pictures this one was the nicest picture. Personally for fixing this I would do it in the watch. That's because the problem is in the watch. Looks like the balance complete has a nice gradual terminal curve which I think yours still has. The typical problem and it's the most common problem for watchmakers is distortion in the around the stud. The preferred method of practicing with the hairspring would be to practice on a disposable watch. Practice distorting the hairspring bending it then fixing the problem until you get good at it. But as there are replacement balance completes on eBay you can practice with this watch what's the worst you're going to do? I notice they even have movements on eBay.

An armitron rescued from the salvation army 99 cent bin.I replaced the hands ,now they actually are luminous.

You’re welcome. To make your life easier you can modify a die of the rimmed type, then order a new set. They are very cheap on AliX, etc.

You need to cut a new die with slots for the spokes. Delrin or nylon would be the best materials. Ideally you would use a lathe, it can also be done by hand and file, it will be ugly but will work.

Typical for an ebauche maker to mark on the place less likely to be seen by a curious watch owner.

Hi, welcome pal. You look very professional. Looking forward to read more of your post.

I think you will have better chances by posting front and back pictures of the mov't to identify what it is.

It's more difficult with the balance in place. You could try tapping an hole on a small alloy block and use a suitable screw to keep the cock in place, with the balance up. Then you let the stud in the hole and set its screw. Don't forget that you have to loosen the screw before adjusting, to check that the hairspring is horizontal or even let it its own natural position for best consistency across positions.

Very nice! What model of bench is this?

I think the question is, how to remove the stud off of the stud holder and replacement.

Thank you for explaining how this part of the keyless works operates! However, the terminology is a constant source of confusion in our trade. The part that you name a crown wheel is indeed a winding pinion and it drives the crown wheel mounted on the barrel bridge.

Find tech terms by ETA in Eternaltools.com .

If we’re looking at the spring wound into the barrel then you’ve got the spring wound in the wrong way. Should look like this (except not dirty) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like a normal caseback that you can remove with a jaxa or similar tool.