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The Date wheel is severely worn in the 20's. Notice how the wheel has been eaten away until touching numbers yet clear space at 180°. The Date wheel is binding and appears to be worn from top down also. I would simply replace the Date wheel and see if it works. It will prob get the watch through the remainder of its working life.

Below the day finger (or arm) There is two possible reasons for which it can't contact the date gear: it's too low, as it happens when the date wheel jumper isn't engaged, or the C-clip not well pressed is too far away, as if the finger tip is worn off, or the date gear is. Your case appears to be the latter, the tips of some cogs are gone, making it appear to be off-center, so the problem can happen for some day but not others. Look for a 2836 2561 on Cousins UK or other sources.

That date wheel looks in poor condition. The are very thin a slight unevenness and it will not work properly. I agree the center looks as if its been played around with.

That's for making a new setting. I haven't used one either but it's a neat looking tool. A big problem when replacing bezel set (rubbed in) jewels is that the brass or german silver is often quite brittle. If it's a regular commercial grade watch and you don't mind altering it, the easy route is to ream the setting to the closest friction fit jewel that will go. In some cases you can use the "walls"of the old bezel set jewel. If it's a nice piece, like an old LeCoultre or something, I will open up the bridge or plate in a faceplate. There is almost always a polished sink around the setting; I'll open up till that is gone. Then make a new setting that frictions in, which gets the polished sink on the visible side, and the repair is effectively invisible.

Update: just found a NOS day wheel 2561 on ebay from Egypt - nothing to lose for less than £10! Just have to wait for it to arrive now

Oh by the way, I just checked, and he is only shipping to Germany. If you are determined to have it you will need to contact him about that first. If he won't ship to Sweden, and I can act as an intermediary, let me know.

Google translate didn't do a bad job, to be fair. very well preserved and 100% intact A precision dial gauge from the company Mühle of Glashütte in Sa. (Saxony) is sold in the original wooden box in very good condition. The device is ready for immediate use. The design corresponds to the precision dial gauges that were also made in the German Watchmaker School in Glashütte. The quality and handling in practice are unsurpassed. Measuring accuracy 1/100 mm. It unfortunately doesn't say anything about what it can be used for or how to use it.

One thing that feels odd is that i have never seen this kind of date mechanism on a ETA 2832 or any of the other models that are similar . Like the 2834,36 .

Hi Watchie the reference to buttons read jewels looks ok but the bergeon is better just a question of cost.

Those Glashutte micrometers are really nice, but don't have all the features the JKA has. The JKA has a little table that is adjustable in height (great for checking jewel diameters), and has fine jaws which will measure between two larger diameters. My favorite though is the Bergeon 30112, which has a traditional micrometer head (instead of a dial indicator), and the little table and notched anvil and spindle for checking staffs and arbors.

Q&Q mechanical. Somewhere between 1976 and 1982 would be my guess. This is one of those late mechanical movements with various plastic parts, and they can be a bit hit and miss to get running reliably. This one appears to be fine, but a couple of others I have, took quite a bit of tinkering to get them to settle down to a reasonable rate. Needless to say, it was also pretty scruffy with a scratched up crystal when it arrived. Other than slight wear on the crown, it now looks quite presentable on a NOS "Genuine leather" (but more likely PU leather) band.

We all have our off days.

Just read any 'date' as 'day' in my post above. I can't ever write right.. Sorry

Giugiaro today Indoors due to storm coming

Correction: Date jump arm, not gear.

Hi, Date ring is a bit off center, driffted towards 9 Oclock. Also have you checked the functioning of date jump gear in both clock&anticlock. Good luck.

This isn't working anymore so I'm attaching a scanned copy. 6435_T38209.pdf

Definitely drill, if standard 1.4mm tap then 1.2mm drill. If you have special tapping fluid on hand use it, if not beeswax is surprisingly good. Go slowly and reverse often. Stainless is a pain to tap but even different sources for the same alloy can be night and day difference in machinability.

His description isn't really clear. The oiled area should be around 60% of the surface when the jewels are assembled together. With most Incablocs you'll need to oil the cap, then set the chaton on top. It's hard to predict what the end result will be without just doing it a bunch of times and getting a feel for what the initial oil spot will become once in contact with the hole jewel. There's no practical way of adding oil once assembled as the chimney is in the way (A Bergeon 1A auto oiler can do it*). No way to remove excess of course. With Kif or old non-shock settings, assemble the jewels, oil the sink in the hole jewel, then insert a fine pin to carry the oil through to the cap. These are more forgiving as you can start small and add until it looks right. *There's a risk with the auto oiler that some oil may touch the chimney and could possibly lead to oil wicking out of the jewel. It's also hard to be sure the tip is really clean. I got one in school but haven't used it in 20 years.