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Here we have a mechanical wind Timex Camper that has a broken mainspring. Over the next few days I will post pictures of its progress. So here we go -

any extra-weight on the balance? Has the HS been changed? One way to sort it would be to shorten the HS. Then dynamic poising!

Perhaps the "older" WRT-members remember that I, as a watch-novice (which I still am) back in begin 2016 serviced my own Rolex Submariner (3135). After putting myself through a rigorous training on two ETA 2540 / 2541, 17mm ladies watches, the Rolex 3135 was next. That caused, rightly, some stir on the forum. Before the service I build Stefans Watch-O-Scope to test the end results and to do some adjustments if required. With the excellent video of Mark, servicing a 3135, I performed the service. There were some heart-stopping moments, especially when at the end, while adjusting the daily-rate with a Microstella tool, my right-hand holding the balance-wheel with tweezers started doing his own thing and I bend the hairspring at the stud. Luckily that I could fix......... After the service the Watch-O-Scope signal looked horrible. The beat-error was in different position all over the place. We had endless discussions on the forum about what to do and what was next. Despite the poor W.O.S results, the Rolex ran constantly +2 or +3 seconds a day. Other attempts on the Watch-O-Scope proofed futile and for a long time I've been thinking about admitting defeat and to get the Rolex fixed by an official Rolex service point. That was until today. Even through I was quite happy with the W.O.S. results on all my other watches, I decided (after repairing a heirloom pocket-watch and the owner donated me some extra) to buy the Chinese Weishi 1000 timegrapher. Knowing how the Rolex raw-data looked like on the W.O.S. screen, I didn't expect the Weishi 1000, which came today, to make much sense out of it either. The proof is in the pudding they say, so one of the first watches to test was my Rolex. To my surprise the Weishi 1000 picked the 28800 bpm signal correctly and without any problems up. Even better, and to my big relieve !, the Rolex runs actually quite good. I hadn't worn the Rolex for a least two weeks, so it was cold and had to be hand wound. Lift angle set at 52 degrees. Dial Up: -7 s/d, 294 degrees, 0.1 ms Dial down: -7 s/d, 292 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown down: -3 s/d, 272 degrees, 0.0 ms Crown up: -2 s/d, 278 degrees, 0.2 ms. I know that when worn, the Rolex runs +2 to +3 s/d constantly. This get to show, as @JohnR725 keeps saying with timegrapher signals; Rubbish in = Rubbish out. To my big relieve it also shows that I didn't ruin my Rolex and that it actually runs very fine....... no need for a new balance staff or an official Rolex service, saving me at least a $1000 and giving me a peace of mind. I've been very happy with the W.O.S and it still has its place. The Weishi 1000 however ....... It thoroughly impresses me ! I like to thank everybody for their input a few years back and just in case there were still some members out there wondering & worrying about my novice Rolex "endeavor", we can now put this aside and all sleep well Cheers: Roland.

I was thinking how best to present my explanation, searched for some pix then thought there was a video by Mark on which this point can be shown as well as the video's subject. Most every brand produced their in house version of fhf70. Some got subsecond, some center second which comes in two different design. One holds the seconds arbor down in place to mesh with the min wheel, other uses a bridge to accomplish the same. In case you havn,t, as soon as you see a pic of these movements you see what I say. A picture is truely worth a thousand words and as a non native english speaker ten thousand of my words may barely do. The regulator pin I think you have already figured out what I am talking about. fhf70 is a jewel. Regards

this allows the pallet fork to have something to rest on.

Didn’t you know that is how Jethro Tull get there unique sound.

It doesn't look like an original spring to me, probably he original was lost and someone modified another to fit. Guitar wire is a good source of springy metal wire. Anilv

Yip it sure is, better to get an 8 day one though, the one day cuckoo's are just that and if you forget to pull the chain (he he) you will get pissed having to set it over and over. Now I think you said you have a Granddaughter that visits, the issue is that young kids grab the chains or weights and pull the clock off the wall which can be dangerous just keep that in mind when you are placing it somewhere. Also, MAKE SURE THE SCREW IS IN A STUD, most of the repairs I do are from people that think plasterboard or drywall for my US friends, will take the weight and after pulling up the weights a few times it falls off the wall!! Try to avoid Huber Hass clocks as the brass is to soft and even new one's may need bushing after a few years, Regular are a bit better. If you buy an antique one they are all good, however be ready to re-bush it. Maybe because I repair so many I only own one myself an 1880 Beha, the most sought after maker and this one is very rare as it is a spring driven wall cuckoo clock, people did not buy these as they liked the look of the weights hanging down. To start with, buy a cuckoo only clock, do not buy a music one as with all the water wheels, dancers and people banging beers on the table and so on, these are not easy to get right, well for a beginner anyway. If/when you get it start a new thread as I am thinking it may go for a while... he hee

Additional candidates to be suspected are, HS not properly closed in by regulator pin. If sweep seconds, is the seconds arbor bridged or held down by spring. Culprit with the bridged type.

Maybe a model 106 given it has Taiwan on the dial it is not a model 25. need pictures and I can help you with vintage Timex parts-

running too fast in the up position may indicate a problem or dirt a balance jewel. vin

Is it in beat? From your second post it sounds like it might just be way out of beat in which case adjusting the banking won't help. Try removing the pallet fork so that you can sight along along a line which goes through the escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance pivots. The impulse jewel should be on that line. If it's not then the movement will be out of beat, and if it's too far out it won't run.

I have had many brands of Tweezers over the years and always keep coming back to Dumont. Size 5 or 4 for hairspring work. Size 2 For general work. I personally have no use for any other size apart 5, 2 and from my brass tweezers which are around size 3.