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At dusk she sails. (1962 - cal 340)

I am a sucker for coin silver interestingly engraved 18s pocket watches (wow that was a mouthful) This is a Waltham 18s Ellery 11jewel hunter made in 1885in a coin silver case. It was a bit sad when I bought it . I striped it down cleaned it, replaced the mainspring , replaced the crystal, installed a new balance jewel and cleaned what turned out to be a really great looking case that was black. As I said I love an interesting engraved case, and this Huge Bull is great. Tell me what you think & show your interesting cases

First and foremost. The movement you are using, was it working fine before ? Are you sure that you're using a perfectly "healthy" movement ? It's important to know this... If there's some damage or problems in there, it might never really show the correct numbers on the tiemgrapher.

Some very early clocks such as Lantern Longcase and Bracket where the brass is cast have impurities. These are best kept away from modern cleaning and the solutions.

There are various scans of this book on the web, but a quick google found this one... http://kanddinverto.weebly.com/staking-tools-and-how-to-use-them-1910.html

Better picture of the spring.

Had a pretty similar issue with such a movement and the hairspring was a bit faulty.

Moderators perform an essential role in any community, but all have checks and balances. I am the main admin and even I have to control myself in order to attempt to maintain a friendly forum. I am sorry you were prompted to create this thread - I think I know the reason. I am extremely busy at the moment creating new content for the course BUT I want it known that I still monitor very closely the security of the software. I cannot, however, have time to monitor each and every thread - that's why we have the "REPORT POST" feature (which people can use in order to notify moderators and myself of potential problems). It is discouraging and makes the community look bad when we see lack of patience and bickering so please do use this feature and hopefully we can keep this community growing. This is not the largest watch forum on the net - but I did start it with a vision for being among the friendliest

To answer your question, forum moderators are clockboy and myself. Forum Admin and Owner is Mark Lovick. About the issue that you're raising in subject, one thing is having a polite forum, another is not being straight on the need of using proper tools and techniques. Not maintaining this objective could allow topics to become diseducative, not good for a leading technical forum. For example, I own and occasionally use a bench type opener simply because some screw-type caseback cannot be opened without, as I found myself. Incidentally, I don't call myself a watchmaker of any kind. That takes 4-5 years of fully time study in a professional school, or the equivalent, qualified working experience.

Here's my DIY tool I use when the sticky ball don't work. Get a round plastic box with a flat cover, about the size of your caseback. Cover it with duct tape, sticky side out, on one side. Hold your watch firmly in one hand, crystal on your palm. With the other hand place the "now sticky" side of your plastic box on your watch caseback and apply a firm pressure. Turn both hands opposite ways, still applying a good pressure. The caseback should unscrew. The duct tape could let some sticky on you caseback ... clean with a q-tip and nail remover. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Hello. I would like to congratulate the personnel staff that provides and supports at this web page. Someone tried to get into my account with no success. Although this is my second post, I feel very confident now posting my comments here. Thank you very much. P.S. Right now I´m taking some pictures. The plan is to (evidently) post them.

Please don’t get fixated on hollow grinding. With our small gauge screwdrivers, to achieve a concave grind of correct geometry would require wheels of a few mm in diameter. A readily available small diameter dremmel wheel would effectively have a ‘flat’ circumference on the tiny contact area being sharpened. So, hollow grinding is in theory ideal, but not practical. I use a fine oilstone and 3 in 1. With practice I am achieving good driver contact and no screw damage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice sharpener. Apparently, watching paint dry can be a productive use of our time.