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I was waiting for the cleaning cycle to finish and I came across this board. Some of the posters are pretty serious and that is a pleasant thing to see. I have been updating my website to highlight pages that may be of interest to the membership http://historictimekeepers.com/Notes for Watchmakers.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/Microscopes.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/measurement_in_watchmaking.htm I am trying to leave a trail of bread crumbs so that younger watchmakers do not have to learn the hard way like I did. I do need to put together a book list (Jendritski, Perkins, Whitney, Wild, Gazeley, the Argus Shop series, Sherline book, etc) that gets people away from relying on bad information or writers who leave Easter Eggs for the reader to figure out. If people have a topic they would like me to add, let me know. My goal is to fill the space of how things are done which tends to be glossed over. For example, using an adjustable hotplate instead of an alcohol lamp for bluing and shellacking, etc. Things I have found that make life easier and increase the probability of success. Regards, Dewey

Welcome Mark and enjoy...lot of tips and tricks around here. If you don't ask, you will not get answers... Cheers

JD Richard, If the steel was so hard that you had to cut it with a carbide graver then you will probably have problems trying to thread it. Pivots and staffs are not threaded and milled which allows the machining to be done with a prehardened piece of steel. For a winding stem, which needs to be milled and threaded after turning, I prefer to use unhardened steel (drill rod) to begin with. If prehardened steel is your only option, it would be a good idea to anneal it before beginning to machine it. david

This is a video of a Swiss Watch school. The students have access to very nice machinery to learn about making watch parts.

Hello everyone, just introducing myself before I start pestering with questions. My background is clock restoration, I apprenticed with Thwaites & Reed way back when and only serviced my own (and family) watches. I'm not in the trade now but still have a workshop set up and enjoy tackling complete wrecks. Recent projects are a Longines who's keeper decided to add olive oil to smooth the winding, that was interesting to get off. I have just finished a rolex 3035 that took a spin through a washing machine and then git relegated to a drawer for a few years, now keeping time to within 3 secs per day, chuffed with that, so was the woman's husband. Other projects on the go include trying to finish making a carriage clock with a chronometer platform escapement and remontoire. Bit of head scratching on that one, it was started by a 92 year old friend of mine who has forgotten more than I ever knew. Thanks for having me

You need if ou want a original omega crystal a PZ5000. Which i recommend. It fits much better then a sternkreuz. At least on a Omega. I think the 2921 has a crystal ring? That you need to remove first.

Of course the crystal is slightly larger. It's a press fit, I'm assuming, and that's how they stay "attached" to the case and don't just fall off. Keep in mind that some crystals do not fit Omega cases as they should. I would try to source out an original one or at least check the dimensions of the new one and see if it really fits and that it won't disturb the dial/movement and so on.

Hi Mark and welcome, you have come to the right place as there are many knowledgeable people on this forum who willingly give excellent advice. Best wishes. Johnnie

I am not really sure but take a look at this video, it might help you.

Hi & welcome to a great forum. I live in the US (home off unregulated gun laws). My wife and I like to visit GB when we can. She is a "Weaver" & belongs to the Cornwall UK weavers guild. The only American in that fine group. Her ancestor was sent to Virginia after being convicted of pick pocketing, in the 1600"s

Found this when googling for shock proof system . Much come in handy some times? http://17jewels.info/movements-en/movements-h-en/31-movements-en.html

How nice to see young girls also taking up watchmaking. All using top range equipment, computer controlled lathes. Anyone know the name of the lathe? These lucky students will go on to working on top of the range movements, all in environmentally clean workshops. No working in tiny workshops being covered in dirt and grime for them.

You might like to see this. Trust me, this is a lot harder then it looks.

Nice tools for sure. But I happen to think that is student's disposition and will that makes the results.

Why make a stem for a AS1950/51 . Are they hard to find? Or is it just for fun or getting some experience? Almost sure i have a AS1951 stem?

Here is my very first stem with this stuff. Is tempering needed? Or good to go? Still need to cut threads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Progress so far Still need to tap the threads and perhaps smooth things up a bit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Just clean them with the jewels in place. You will be in a lot of problem if you remove them. You need to take the balance jewels of to clean them. And if there are endcap jewels . But jewels that you can see through . Let them be.

Clean your watches in the US machine. It's safe on the friction jewels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got this Seiko 6139-6002 for pennies on the dollar albeit it was not working, in poor physical condition and with missing and damaged parts. I used after-market parts to “restore” this watch to a portion of its lost glory. This will go down as one of my favorite repair and restoration projects.