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Because I work on these movements often and I'm very familiar with them, right from the Kif flexor balance cap jewel, the Breguet overcoil, the triangular stud and the support. the poise and timing screws. No one is going to this length to produce a fake form the late 50's and make it look that age. This movement is definitely the real thing. Here's a couple of photos from one I worked on last week. It's a 1210 calibre, although it is actually a 1215 base but it doesn't have the calendar work or date window

Make sure you don't put the 8 on upside down.

Anybody know anything about Rone watches. I inherited my fathers Rone fifteen watch which he bought in 1947. Pictures show the face, movement and the inside of the cover. Anyone recognise the movement?

I just posted a new video on my channel I thought might be helpful to the larger community. As always comments and critiques are welcome.

A friend ask me to service his old Rolex recently. To be honest, I have an aversion to Rolexes. I've never liked the designs, I've never liked the idea of needing specialized tools and I don't like the attitude of their authorized distributors in my country. But this one looked so different that I'm wondering if it's even a real Rolex. I showed it to my mentor who says the movement is genuine, the dial might be refurbished and he's not sure about the case. So I'm seeking the opinions of Rolex experts in our community. Is this a real Rolex?

sorry, refresh. I fumbled the keyboard initially causing an incomplete post to appear. There are many pictures and video now.

Something like the anti-tarnish watchmakers paper that otto frei sells? If you are putting them in a sealed container you could throw in one of the oxygen absorber packs marketed for food storage, too.

Hi Karl after the first picture I did not bother to look any further but just had another shufty, The clock looks like its been butchered, the original movement removed and a cheap quartz movement fitted, hence the gos awful hands that dont fit. the original movt would have the knobs on, the bit under the base drives the pendulum rotor and there is no wire either, scheiss it realy is. It would have been interesting if it was as an origional condition.

Plenty of places if you look on google.

Many computer parts when packed come with silica gel. On them it says DO NOT EAT.

Anti rust paper is what I used wrap them in that.

Adding my two bits. I use a Branson B200 i bought 2nd hand several years ago. The one i bought was actually marketed by minolta or someone to clean inkjet cartridges and came with an insert to hold four cartridges. It's output power is 19w. Which is not much. It has no heating element but the transducer and electronics do generate a little heat. I typically use hot water in it. Keeping the lid on it during the cycle helps maintain heat. The default cycle is 5 minutes. I modified mine so that the cycle is more like 20 minutes. It just has an on button and an off button. Some have said that 20 minutes is too long, but i can stop whenever i want. I'm not addicted. I should state that my B200 is at least 20 years old and i routinely run it through three 20-minute cycles back to back to back. USA-made quality. I also use it to clean cases, bracelets, auto parts, tools, and anything that fits in it and has something that is hard to get at with a brush. I'm cheap so I am using about a 3:1 ratio of naphtha and odorless mineral spirit (aka stoddard solvent) for wash and straight naphtha for 1st and 2nd rinse. Mineral spirit often contain paraffins in solution that may leave a waxy residue. Solvents can be freeze distilled. Put them in the freezer for a few to several hours. The heavier constituents will plate out, sometimes making the solution look cloudy. A lot of the plated-out heavier stuff will stick to the walls of the container, so don't use the container you are going to wash parts in. Run the freezing-cold solvent through a paper coffee filter and almost all of the heavy stuff will stick to the paper. If you are particularly hard up for money you can use this technique to recycle wash solution but your final rinse should probably be virgin solvent. The little jars that minced garlic (christopher ranch) and pimentos (dromedary) come in in the USA fit nicely in this cleaner. Two of them fit at a time. The standard short jars for nacho cheese dip and salsa fit too, but are much larger and thus heavier and may result in poor efficiency. Heavily soiled parts still require attention with pegwood and rodico and i am under the impression that this is normal. I have at times had additional jars containing an ammoniated detergent solution (from hardware store), distilled water, alcohol, evapo-rust, etc. I should note that you shouldn't mix use of water based and petroleum based solutions without drying first. I've noticed that the seal on a pimento jar lid gets gummy when exposed to acetone. Not sure how they react to trichloroethane (troop-balas one-dip) but i should check.

Crystal size 32.22 mm is a standard. I see no reason why it be rare or hard to find.

Numbers and hour indicators fly out and possibly get lost when you blow the crystal out. I try this inside a plastic bag so to insure retriving all pieces.

Without pictures and a more detailed explanation of the problem it's impossible to help or even understand what do you mean.

When you go in with a razor blade, choose a location which is inconspicuous. If the bezel will not lift, then tap the razor with a very lightweight hammer.

The crown is unsigned but my mentor told me that early Rolexes and Tudors didn't have signed crowns. I found out from the owner that it is supposed to be a model 9083 and I found the number engraved on the inside of the caseback. I also did a search on the internet and found images consistent with the watch. So it looks like it's real. I was also told that if the end pieces of an Oyster bracelet were removed, it would fit. I think I'll get an OEM Oyster bracelet from Cousins and see if that's true. Thanks OH and Stretch.

Just finished one of these movements in an Avia ladies watch. Was impressed how well made the movement was. All parts nicely polished and even had adjustable beat error on the regulator. Got really good amplitude and zero beat error after a bit of fiddling. After letting it settle down through a full run time cycle (46 hrs!) and another full wind there was no discernable gain or loss over 36 hrs, very impressive. Not got any pics unfortunately. Only downside was single top plate for barrel and gear train, so a little delicate fiddling required. I do lot of ladies watches, small calibers, so now used to the very small parts. Makes larger calibers seem massive afterwards!!!

I could go either way. Sometimes, a particular kind of watch just looks better with a domed acrylic crystal. And they're easy enough to care for. Some watches look better with a flat crystal, and a sapphire one can last a while there. Sometimes the adverse conditions a watch might suffer will warrant the investment in a sapphire crystal. But in other cases, the watch may not suffer much abuse and/or the bezel projects outward in some way to protect the crystal somewhat, such that a mineral glass is all that is needed. I look at it this way: if a customer wants sapphire, and it would work for the watch, it's their money. I'll put it in, figuring they may know a thing or two about what the watch may be going through.

Hardly a rant, more a well-reasoned argument for why you prefer the look and feel of acrylic, and vintage in general. I definitely understand that emotional connection you get with something you've cared for and maintained yourself. Just as a matter of interest, the crystal on the Submariner is a flat sapphire, correct? Do you have any domed sapphires, and how do you feel about them?

I use a Ultraviolet Counterfeit Money Detector - Amazon sell them. They have the correct UV frequency for the Sternkreutz UV cement. Takes about 5 minutes with the watch crystal on a foam pad under the UV tube.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/ultra-violet-uv-torch-horotec-swiss?code=P55888 Forgot to add the link!

Finally got around to install the Indian vice on my new bench. Turns out that the base is actually chromed brass. I used wood inserts and SS socket screws. There weren't many choices but right above the drawer has the advantage that all I need to do is to open it and place a plastic bag to catch filings. After use it stays put in the same cardboard it came in. The red "visette" is another handy Cousins cheapie which I have already corrected for jaws and slide alignment, but I still have to find a way to fix on the thick bench.