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Once screwed in the caseback presses on the mov't ring, so nothing to worry.

I don't post about watches that are not with me, but this one arrived this week and finally I got to open the package today. Pretty good, all what it needs is a service and even better a video recorded one.

There is a color chart you should refer to when hardening metal. Each color is for what you are trying to harden something small enough to fit in a pivot hole should not be made red hot, that will cause them to brake very easily even if you temper them. I believe the color you are looking for is a medium yellow at about 420 degrees. Quench in oil not water, you will have to do it again in order to temper it.

Check other parts from Seiko . I think the jewels are the same . Maybe the barrel from a 66 movement is the same. Found this on jules . http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=Ud\D`L[

Sparky, you do not want straw color for a pivot gage or pivot or any functional part in a watch for that matter. I say it again as it's been mentioned several times to temper to straw, that is incorrect. Also, you 100% do need to get to red/orange heat to harden. Also, you do not need to hold the tempering temperature for a few hours, a few minutes (even one) is plenty.

Hi I think jdm is very close. I read an article where some dealers have a pal and when they put up articles for sale the pal puts in a bid(baiting bid) which attacts others but if its a (sale) It does not reach the price required it pulled and no goods change hands and the article is again punted at a later date. One has to be carefull. jdm's quote is a word to the wise.

if you can get " drill rod ", it uses water or oil quench. an oxy acetalene "jewelers" torch is ideal for small stuff. vin

Wood charcoal might elevate the carbon content of the steel if left for a long time but not at the length of time watch parts are held at red heat. It does prevent oxidation of the steel surface very effectively though. Blacksmiths use bone charcoal for case hardening. There are many types of hardenable steel. Some are air hardening, some oil hardening, some water hardening. The designations of the 3 most common seen in North America A2, O1, and W1 are self explanatory. Air hardening will harden when left to cool from red hot. W1 and O1 need to be quenched in water or oil respectively to become hard. When tempering by color the clean grey steel will go from a very light straw to brown, then purple, then blue, light blue then almost grey again. Straw would be for cutting tools. A dark brown for punches. Purple if you're French and want to **BLEEP** off future repairmen. Blue is typical for almost all watch parts from staffs to pinions to springs. A lighter blue is good for screws for a bit more resistance to breakage when tightening. If you want brown and get to blue you need to reharden. If you want blue and get to grey you need to reharden. If you want to anneal heat treated steel it needs to be brought up to hardening temp and then cooled as slowly as possible.

I’m sure we are all intrigued about your lingerie searches my friend lol

In that case, blue you shall have. The lighting doesn't do this one justice. It is a deep navy blue, but LED lights being what they are , it looks much flatter in this picture. With the flash, it just looks washed out. It looks best in daylight, but given that it is 22:40 here, daylight is in short supply. The tiny lume pips are a very subtle eggshell blue, un-illumintated, although they look white in this picture.

This JDM Seiko 3862-7010 from 1973....I do love a blue dial

Let me think.. Scenario one "uncle" had a genuine Omega, AND a genuine Rolex, and treated them like junk. Scenario two "uncle" had a fake Omega, AND a fake Rolex, and treated them like junk. If I owned them, and they were genuine, I'd keep them in the best of order, in their original boxes (*). As it happens I have a similar "Faux-mega" in my junk box. * Actually I'd probably flog them, original boxes included, and buy something else that I would enjoy even more... but you get my point.

Hi what was the asking price in the auction , If it looks too good to be true it usually is, personally I would leave them alone especially if they will not reveal any more information.

I get the idea of making gauges for jewel holes, but why don't you just start with blue steel and machine that to dimension then you don't need to harden and temper. Yes Blue steel will blunt you gravers quicker, but its what you use to make balance staffs anyhow, so its good practice as trying to harden and temper things that small is not easy. It sounds like the steel you have is carbon steel as you say a file won't touch it after hardening, but if you have a bench grinder there is an easy test you can do to see if the steel you have is carbon steel so can be hardened. It is called 'The spark test'. Putting it simply mild steel when put on the grinder will give only small sparks, straight line that just disappear. Carbon steel gives 'sparkly sparks' what I mean by this is the spark will come of the grinder and then branch out into more sparks, a bit like a growing tree branch. If you get some carbon steel and then just a mild steel nail and put them on the grinder one after the other you will see what I'm talking about.

OK I found one. -> https://thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/57646-homage-watch-sunday/ So I suspect it must have a Hong Kong special pin lever, and a quartz module. It will be interesting to see how it all fits inside that case. Quirky and certainly a worthy addition to the 404 club.

Neat. I hoped it might. Where did you see an example? Your google fu seems to be stronger than mine.

Which says it all. In my opinion: Learn on, or repair "for human cause" a fake watch which was passed to you: No problem. Document how poorly or good they are made: Useful and interesting to read. Defend counterfeiting with some convoluted reasoning, or wear them: Just opinions, or matter of (poor) taste. Go out and willingly buy a fake watch: Hmmmm. Not to mention that is better not to let grow an illusion that it may be genuine after all. Buy an honest and modest watch with the same money - actually is not little money sometime. Deceive a buyer as claiming or otherwise acting as if it's genuine: Crime of fraud.

You can use a pure soap, but I prefer charcoal powder. I grind wood charcoal in an espresso grinder as fine as possible, then that goes in a steel tube with the part, heated to orange, dump in oil, fish out with magnet. The part will be an even grey color, clean off oil then temper in a tray of brass filings over an alcohol lamp until blue. The tube is from a Nitrous oxide canister for whipped cream makers, so about 20mm diameter 45mm long, welded to a rod as handle. Can't find a pic right now. You want to temper as soon as possible after hardening. Are you sure your steel is hardenable? Most hardware stores will sell the lowest grade of steel.

I applied some muscle and was able to pull the stem out and surprisingly it was not a two-piece stem as was expected. I noticed that the stem has two conical sections which work with a spring loaded post. Once the stem had been removed, a sharp knife was used to get underneath and remove the bezel. The crystal was removed with a crystal lift and the movement could then be lifted out.

Today I wore a Navajo silver cuff bracelet watch. The turquoise stones originated from the Sleeping Beauty mines in Arizona. I got interested in Native American jewelry (and watch cuffs), when I saw the late Burt Reynolds wearing one in a movie, I think it was Smokey and the Bandit. Some really crazy movies back then :o)

I thought Borax was usually used as a flux, and yes, it does forma glass-like surface. Can you not just use soap? For pin gauges, I'd temper over a flame and very slowly bring them towards blue (or whatever colour you like). They don't need to be super hard, and aesthetics aren't your top priority.

Hot blueing? Pretty nasty operation.consider parkerizing.or maybe even a cold phosphate coating. There is a product called ospho.that gives you a dull blue black finish and a degree of rust proofing.

I'm a big fan of the curved sheet of brass held in pliers manuever for tempering. Place the piece to be tempered in the sheet of brass, heat over a torch and watch like a hawk for colour change. You want straw coloured probably, so watch when it just starts to turn and then quench immediately or it'll go right to blue. Good luck. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

You are fixing a 70 years old mov't, is not like you can expect to easily find new part off the shelf. If the barrel can be reused of fixed do that, for the mainspring measure it and order the one closest in size.

Something different I put together, bead blasted HMT case, hour and minute hands from Cousins and dial from eBay. Second hand I painted red and re lumed the arrow. Unfortunately I couldn’t find a mechanical movement with the correct stem height so used a Ronda quartz movement. A logo would be nice but for love or money I can’t source one

Sheffield Allsport. Just had a refresh and service.

You can never have too many lizards. Essentially this is just the same lizard, at two different scales, and in the case of the center collection, three different angles, each separated by 120 degrees. The use of a gradient fill on the smaller lizard group gives is a slight dimensional feel. You could of course continue the pattern to infinity by wrapping it round a sphere or better still a hyperbolic plane or some other curved solid surface (very appropriate, arguably for a time piece dial). Something akin to this perhaps. The obvious issue with using the above heptagonal timing is that you day would need to be divided into seven, or perhaps fourteen "hours", but the lizard tiling essentially divides by three (and six, twelve etc), so it would be possible to use that. I feel myself teetering on the edge of a very deep rabbit hole here.

I was sitting here in the sunshine watching a small lizard basking, while playing with Inkscape's ability to repeat an object round a shape, and thought... Why numbers? They are a little obvious, why not something else? Why not lizards... so... with full apologies to MC Escher for stealing his lizard, here is the result. I may develop this idea a little further, since these lizards can be coloured, filled, tessellated, stretched and so forth, but this first attempt has a nice pen and ink vibe to it. Yes, there are exactly 12 lizards, so you can tell the time with them. I wonder what kind of hands would be appropriate for a lizard clock. Ones with flies on their tips perhaps. EscherLizards.30.100Centre1.79RoundBluePurple.svg If you want to play with this idea, check this video first. Its really simple.

Oh.. I nearly forgot. There was one more..... An Ingersol Sealion, for a whopping 0.05p more than the Aviatime. No jewels, so probably an EB 8800.