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I found it out!!!!! I had put the holder for the pallet fork on the drive side, the wrong way, so the jewel nearly fell out. So be sure to check that folks.... See photo

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What have you checked? It could be literally a dozen different things. Nothing specific to this caliber, it's a regular watch. Hairspring, true? Flat? Balance jewels clean? Endshake of balance correct? Is there dust clinging to something? (balance, fork, escape wheel)

In short (pun not intended), at the crystal output you get (almost always) a frequency of 32 KHz. And at the coil/circuit output, 1 Hz. Crystals can lose accuracy due to temperature changes, and age.

Without searching on this specific module, the screw just below the + sign looks like a regulating trimmer. Long time I didn't saw one. If you get a frequency measuring multi-meter (very cheap these days) maybe that helps regulating to 1 pps. Very great website for choosing one https://lygte-info.dk/info/indexDMMReviews UK.html

I would say do remove the sweep wheel, especially since you have the puller. Just be careful, also when reinstalling. I've never had one come loose, neither on chronographs.

Hi @baird1025 - I feel bad for you on such a nice watch. I don't think you've been unreasonable as a general consumer reading in effect "this watch is water resitant to 30m" and thinking you can take into water of less than this (probably not even 1m!) and thinking everything will be okay. Unfortunately this kind of marketing hyperbole is a sweeping statement for the Cartier range so is not really worth anything for a particular watch in their range. As already stated, unless a watch says it is waterproof it should never be deliberately taken into water. Waterresistant is merely a term to describe some effort to prevent water ingress in the event of an accidental splash etc. Where can water ingress? The front seal (crystal); the rear seal (case back) and crown. If a watch isn't designed to prevent ingress by these means (=waterproof) then every watch will be different in its capability. What I'm getting to is that you haven't bought a lemon; it's just that the watch wasn't intentend for how you've used it. Even if you went to Cartier and tried to make an argument they would cite natural deterioration of the seals since you last had a service. If, in very simple terms, we consider a watch to be the case, movement, dial, hands and bracelet then Cartier are suggesting you pretty much replace most of the watch to bring it back to perfect. Ouch! This then ends up being a very personal decision on how, and how far, you want to proceed. What would be interesting though is if you could post a few pics to show the oxidation you're talking about.

As said above one possibility could be 3D printing but expect to pay at very least the cost of a new same watch. Maybe you can fix the end links with epoxy glue, sand excess material and paint.

ID watch cases are pretty common as well. I have seen them on several makes.pretty sturdy but not very pretty.

I vote for anything that comes out of a distillery.

Just like the 3818B, type I, type II, and Hamilton GG-W-113 there is no way to remove movement without separating the split stem. So its a judgment call on your end. Is it worth the risk of damage? You haven’t worked with it before and you did say it ran so maybe leaving it as is would be your best choice. I have one in my collection its runs for about 7 hours and that’s good enough for me. These were made to be worn and thrown away but doesn’t mean they cant be serviced the movement is the same as type I only difference would be that its a 7 jewel movement.

is the plastic part broken? perhaps if you know someone with a 3D printer they could make a replacement

There is another simple way to look at the lubrication problem. You're supposed to be running a series of electrical checks to verify the watch is functioning correctly. So two tests that would be affected by increased friction are the current consumption Less than or equal to 1,20 μA. Then there is the low-voltage check both of these are not going to work properly if you have too much friction or if something else is wrong. _c_t_ct_955112_fde_491181_10.pdf

sounds like you have a super thin model. Comes with a model 23 movement. Not over wound,, rather just wound up and won't run. A simple dunk and swish service typically gets these models going. That is is you want to DIY.

That is just an indication, unfortunately it's always exaggerated. 30m means in practice just safe to wash hands while wearing it.

Please post pictures front and back to clearly identify the mov't you are looking for.

You can buy the entire movement from Esslinger.com for $15 which is pretty much why you wont find parts. Not worth the cost to sell or to replace when you can get an entirely new movement for such a low price.

Looking at the inside of the case back it looks like previous services have been recorded which was very common practice by horologists.

Hi Center sweeps are very little in the way of difference only having a hollow center wheel arbour through which the sweep pinion operates the basics are the same, be careful of the fine pinion end the sweep hand fits on to as it is easily bent or broken with rough handling, otherwise proceed as normal and photo graph each stage of disassembly so as to have a visible record of where everything went. I have attached the FHF 72 and 79 tech sheets both with center sweeps to aid you , hope you find them useful 980_FHF72.pdf FHF74.pdf

0.99p worth of gold plated Mondaine. I get the impression that someone may have applied the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rule on the wrong screw. You never know, perhaps that is all that is wrong with it, if not, there is a good chance the balance is OK. If it is only the missing screw, I'm sure I'll have a crown and stem, and some hands that should fit.

Yes; i don't know the proper name of this spring OR who made AND who installed it, but when i took it out of spring barrel it un coiled violently --- it was very dificult to get it back into the barrel.. i see jdrichard has figured it out. vin

Elgin had one of the first (maybe first) "unbreakable" mainspring alloys, Elgiloy, and it was excellent. They developed it shortly after WW2.

What a surprise seeing this model and face on here right as I'm getting back into this after a break. I've got the same model and I've always had a hard time finding ones exactly like it with the same color combination. I haven't done a full service of it yet but I have replaced a loose cannon pinion. The push-in date set complication has given me the most trouble of any watch to date, which is probably why I haven't taken it fully down for a service. It took me 4 or 5 tries until I got it together without something slipping out stopping the date advance from working. Great work!

I recomend a silver smith to restore a silver watch case. i have heard some can replace hinges and add silver to a hunting case latch. i have 2 that need an overhaul. vin