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Paumanok

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Paumanok last won the day on February 16

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  1. I'll keep trying but I'm not sure if my post was approved. I'm glad there's some overlap between these forums but to be totally honest I like the vibe of here a lot more. To me the best comparison is walking into a mechanics shop for advice vs walking into a luxury dealership. Or hell, walking into a mom n pop horologist vs walking into a watch store at mall. But the sheer number of people who obsess over details at WUS definitely makes it a solid resource. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  2. An update: It appears the actual case is fine, as when I swapped my new caseback and non-shrunk gasket onto the old case, the weight swung freely. This was also useful as it appears there was some corrosion on my new model where the caseback met the gasket, but did not intrude into the movement. I guess I'll be ordering two gaskets and possibly two casebacks for both watches. I'm excited to know that the older watch wont need to be completely re-cased. Also WUS seems to have a minimum post policy for pictures and links so I couldn't ask for help on the appropriate thread. My post also needed to be checked by a moderator before going live.
  3. So the caseback on the older watch is definitely more pronounced than other manual wound Vostoks I have, albeit those are the kommandirskies which may be even thinner.
  4. Here's a case comparison, case back, and bridge shot. The bridge says RUS, but the dial says CCCP so that's a little worrysome that it leans more frankenwatch. I measured the case thinkness and it seems to be about 3mm. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  5. I've removed and refit the springs already. I've lost one but Ive gotten the hang of it since. Just taking your time makes a huge difference. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  6. To be honest Ive been curious if it's a franken for a while as I've never seen the gold hands+gold dial accents. If it was just hands I'd assume it was hands from a kommander thrown on, but the dial accents on a scubadude dial would be a lot more work. I also considered the case back being too small. I'm pretty sure the gasket has deformed though, due to how it's nearly impossible to position without running against the weight. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  7. Here's the rest of my presentable Vostok collection. Others are in boxes waiting for some TLC.
  8. So I'm going to start this off with a story, which may just date myself, but so be it. Towards the end of highschool, into college, I was getting into mechanical watches. I had heard about Vostoks and their cheap, "good enough" attitude and design and loved them right away. My aunt has always had a touch and go relationship with my parents, some years they'd be best buds, others they'd be fighting. So it goes... This particular year, my aunt asks me what I want for christmas, so I ask for a Vostok Amphibia. Cheap watch, wont break the bank, but its something I'll use and cherish. Weeks go by and my Mom doesn't have faith in my aunt, asks what I asked for and I just visually describe the watch over breakfast. Christmas comes, my aunt pulled through and got me a new Russian made Amphibia, but whats this? My mom somehow found by a visual description almost the same watch, but soviet. Two Scuba Dudes about 30 years apart. I've enjoyed both these watches for the past 5 or 6 years. Now the big difference between these, or so I thought, was the new one was an auto, and the old one was a manual wind. The old one was considerably thinner than the new one, so I never second guessed it. About two months ago, I start getting into repair in order to replace the mainspring on the older one, as after a little bit of hand winding, it feels like it releases tension and continues winding. So I pop the back off and expect a standard 2414 movement, but instead I'm greeted to something else . I think what happened was the last person to open it up, over tightened the case and compressed the gasket, stopping the weight from swinging. Moving the gasket frees up the weight, but after years of sitting its quite sticky and I think it's going to get a well deserved cleaning after a few more practice movements. I guess an new gasket is also in order.
  9. I could try the oil. The hardest part will be gripping the tube without damaging it further Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  10. I can take one when I get home. It's definitely a 24xx, most likely a 2414 but iirc 2434 is calendar+hacking. I may be wrong. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  11. That's what I was worried about, slight differences in the two cases. I don't have the tools right now to shorten a stem and refit to the crown, maybe I can get the old stem out of the broken crown. Is meranom trustworthy with credit cards and the like? It looks pretty legit. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  12. I was checking that out, it seems they only sell the parts under the Amphibia classic. I'm worried about possible fitment variations case to case. It seems to be either a 2414 or a 2434 as it seems to have a counter rotation hacking. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  13. Hm, heat didn't seem to help much. From some research, some galvanic corrosion can take place on the crown screw. I'm thinking it might be toast and I need to find a new case. At least the movement and dial are in good shape. It also seems to be a tiny bit cross threaded as well. Maybe I can find a decent enough parts case.
  14. So I enjoy fixing up these Vostoks, simple and durable and fun to look at. I got one for cheap and I noticed something odd. If you're familiar with the Amphibia and some Kommandirskie versions, you'll know about the screw off crown. This one seemed to pull straight out, weird. Upon further inspection, it seems that it's not the intended design... I tried lightly holding onto the inner screw part with a pair of pliers and trying to loosen the crown. No luck. I also don't want to damage what looks like a brass insert. Any tips on penetrating oil and how I could get a good grip without distruction? Also, if I can get them apart, I assume this piece was pressed in and waterproof status is out of the window, but maybe it can still sorta work as intended. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  15. Thankfully the four I ordered were all relatively intact. According to a previous repairers scratchings on the caseback, some of these have seen work for better or for worse. I originally left the balance alone with the mineral spirits. I decided to make due with what was on hand and give it a short soak in some Ronson lighter fluid. It's pretty pure but I'll be looking for something better later. I popped the cap jewel off and gave it a little oil and it seems to be running better. One point I forgot to mention before was facedown, it was in beat, but face up it was way off. With the clean and oil it's running consistent both ways so I wound it up and I'm going to let it run overnight and see how it does. I need to work on my eye and diagnosing skills a bit but I'm getting the hang of careful tweaser work at least. Sent from my SHIELD Tablet K1 using Tapatalk
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