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Paumanok last won the day on February 16

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  1. I know a few revisions of this movement has a jewel housing that can easily be removed. This particular one looks like it's pressed in rather than held with screws. Another feature is that there's a raised part on other movements that have the removable housing, Including the one on this teardown: https://forums.watchuseek.com/f54/vostok-2416b-service-notes-240805.html I feel like there might be a balance wheel made for this model, and the amount of endshake is due to a wrong combination of wheel and jewel housing, but I have a feeling it shouldn't matter. I wish It was easier to find some revision information because I don't understand why this is the only 24xx movement I've seen that doesn't have those screws holding the jewel housing. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  2. So, With the fork removed, I noticed the balance wheel will move dial up, but not dial down. There seems to be miles of end shake on the balance wheel. I replaced the lower balance jewel with the same behavior. I pulled a shim from another movement, with little change There's just so much end shake, I don't know where the space could come from. The pivots look fine on inspection. I might try a different jewel.
  3. Hi all, Its been a month or so since I've been on here. I've added a couple clean and lubes under my belt, one very successful, the other a little finicky, both on the 2414A movements. I got a 2416B watch off ebay that was sold as non running. its got a gorgeous face but the movement hid some awful secrets... There are some issues with the automatic winding complication but I'm focusing on getting it running first as I think the auto complication *should* work. The most obvious issue I faced was a mangled center wheel from what seems like an even less experienced watch repairer than I. I have extras so I pulled it down, cleaned, lubed, and put back just the keyless works, winding assembly, and gear train. With the replacement center wheel, the pallet fork will bounce back and forth just nicely when barely nudged, but when you add the balance assembly, it barely wants to move. I've double checked the top and bottom balance jewels, tested with a different balance, and tested the original balance in another watch (works beautifully), and pulled it down and reassembled and made sure the drive moves smoothly sans pallet when wound. I know it will be near impossible to remotely diagnose so I'm just looking for some methodical diagnosis tips to see what could be going wrong. Some additional observations: The balance wheel had very little end shake. I noticed the first wheel had a slight bend to it, but when running sans balance, it didn't seem to cause a bind. I have extras of those so that can be my next step to replace. Any tips are super appreciated.
  4. I'll keep trying but I'm not sure if my post was approved. I'm glad there's some overlap between these forums but to be totally honest I like the vibe of here a lot more. To me the best comparison is walking into a mechanics shop for advice vs walking into a luxury dealership. Or hell, walking into a mom n pop horologist vs walking into a watch store at mall. But the sheer number of people who obsess over details at WUS definitely makes it a solid resource. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  5. An update: It appears the actual case is fine, as when I swapped my new caseback and non-shrunk gasket onto the old case, the weight swung freely. This was also useful as it appears there was some corrosion on my new model where the caseback met the gasket, but did not intrude into the movement. I guess I'll be ordering two gaskets and possibly two casebacks for both watches. I'm excited to know that the older watch wont need to be completely re-cased. Also WUS seems to have a minimum post policy for pictures and links so I couldn't ask for help on the appropriate thread. My post also needed to be checked by a moderator before going live.
  6. So the caseback on the older watch is definitely more pronounced than other manual wound Vostoks I have, albeit those are the kommandirskies which may be even thinner.
  7. Here's a case comparison, case back, and bridge shot. The bridge says RUS, but the dial says CCCP so that's a little worrysome that it leans more frankenwatch. I measured the case thinkness and it seems to be about 3mm. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  8. I've removed and refit the springs already. I've lost one but Ive gotten the hang of it since. Just taking your time makes a huge difference. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  9. To be honest Ive been curious if it's a franken for a while as I've never seen the gold hands+gold dial accents. If it was just hands I'd assume it was hands from a kommander thrown on, but the dial accents on a scubadude dial would be a lot more work. I also considered the case back being too small. I'm pretty sure the gasket has deformed though, due to how it's nearly impossible to position without running against the weight. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  10. Here's the rest of my presentable Vostok collection. Others are in boxes waiting for some TLC.
  11. So I'm going to start this off with a story, which may just date myself, but so be it. Towards the end of highschool, into college, I was getting into mechanical watches. I had heard about Vostoks and their cheap, "good enough" attitude and design and loved them right away. My aunt has always had a touch and go relationship with my parents, some years they'd be best buds, others they'd be fighting. So it goes... This particular year, my aunt asks me what I want for christmas, so I ask for a Vostok Amphibia. Cheap watch, wont break the bank, but its something I'll use and cherish. Weeks go by and my Mom doesn't have faith in my aunt, asks what I asked for and I just visually describe the watch over breakfast. Christmas comes, my aunt pulled through and got me a new Russian made Amphibia, but whats this? My mom somehow found by a visual description almost the same watch, but soviet. Two Scuba Dudes about 30 years apart. I've enjoyed both these watches for the past 5 or 6 years. Now the big difference between these, or so I thought, was the new one was an auto, and the old one was a manual wind. The old one was considerably thinner than the new one, so I never second guessed it. About two months ago, I start getting into repair in order to replace the mainspring on the older one, as after a little bit of hand winding, it feels like it releases tension and continues winding. So I pop the back off and expect a standard 2414 movement, but instead I'm greeted to something else . I think what happened was the last person to open it up, over tightened the case and compressed the gasket, stopping the weight from swinging. Moving the gasket frees up the weight, but after years of sitting its quite sticky and I think it's going to get a well deserved cleaning after a few more practice movements. I guess an new gasket is also in order.
  12. I could try the oil. The hardest part will be gripping the tube without damaging it further Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  13. I can take one when I get home. It's definitely a 24xx, most likely a 2414 but iirc 2434 is calendar+hacking. I may be wrong. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  14. That's what I was worried about, slight differences in the two cases. I don't have the tools right now to shorten a stem and refit to the crown, maybe I can get the old stem out of the broken crown. Is meranom trustworthy with credit cards and the like? It looks pretty legit. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  15. I was checking that out, it seems they only sell the parts under the Amphibia classic. I'm worried about possible fitment variations case to case. It seems to be either a 2414 or a 2434 as it seems to have a counter rotation hacking. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
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