Jump to content

Paumanok

Member
  • Content Count

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Paumanok last won the day on February 16

Paumanok had the most liked content!

About Paumanok

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have some proper oils coming in soon, so I can try that as well. This watch has the non-grooved pushers so I was able to pop the movement out and recenter the second hand. I didn't quite get it the first time but I was tired last night and didn't want to push it. This is my first chronograph and despite getting a solid deal, probably the nicest watch I currently own. So I need to balance my confidence in servicing simple movements with my desire to wear this watch.
  2. It appears there is an eccentric screw to adjust the hammers as seen from here:https://watchguy.co.uk/technical/Landeron/1472_Landeron 148.pdf The only thing is its extremely tight and won't adjust either way. I really don't want to force anything on this movement as its otherwise very nice. Also the whole hammer assembly moves which makes it very difficult. EDIT: It seems that its not an eccentric screw despite being in that table. Its just a screw with a tapered head. Regardless, it may be that the previous watchmaker was showing off feats of strength when putting this watch back together.
  3. Oh that's interesting, that totally gives me something to research which is exactly what I was after. I'll post in here if I make any discoveries.
  4. Thanks. That was going to be my first step. I asked because I was curious if the "resets wrong but advances right" was indicative of something specific that I haven't come across in discussions yet. Worst case scenario, I line up the second hand and don't think about it much when the minute recorder advances.
  5. I hand clean and only use the lighter fluid for one-dip, what is the cheaper refined alternative you're referring to? I'm focusing on buying proper oils before getting fancy with my cleaning setup, so I'm hand cleaning for now with mineral spirits in a scrub then rinse.
  6. Hi all, I've finally put my foot through the door of the world of chronographs, and I got an excellent deal on a gold cased Luxor chronograph with a Landeron 248 movement. The dial looks perfect, so perfect at such a price I assume it was either redialed or a miracle occurred when my offer was accepted. The only flaw to the watch is the second recorder resets to about 1 -2 minutes past 12, every time. I thought initially the second hand just needed adjustment, until I noticed the minute recorder will advance a minute when the second recorder crosses midnight exactly, but still resets at 1-2 past 12. This means a recorded minute is actually 58ish seconds. So adjusting the second hand won't solve this problem, and I'm very curious what about this movement syncs these two registers. If anyone has advice, it would be appreciated.
  7. Sounds pretty close to what I was doing, except my smallest screw driver instead of oiler, as I don't want to bugger my only oiler. Tricky none the less but very encouraging to hear I'm on the right path. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  8. Super excellent mini write-up. I was having a lot of trouble getting the date-ring spriny pusher in place with the flat spring set all the way back into the bridge. I'm definitely going the need to invest oils and a proper ultrasonic cleaner for this job. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  9. I wouldn't mind a tutorial, and judging by what's out there it would be helpful to the community as a whole. I have a decent idea at how keyless works go and I'm pretty sure I'm putting it together right but I wouldn't mind a second opinion. I'd also want to see spring position on the date ring keeper on the opposite side from the keyless. Just in case I'm not getting it right. And thanks for the oil advice. It seems hard to find. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  10. It was free from a family friend, and it never quite worked right but even being broken its still the nicest watch in my collection. Its exciting that I'm not afraid of messing it up, and that I can make it a part of the rotation.
  11. On initial inspection, its far nicer than other movements I've worked on. I may ask your advice on getting the keyless works to place nice, as it seems to slip out of position once I remove the stem to place back into the case. I'm removing the stem in the setting position but I seem to either shift the castle out of the position yoke, or the quickset adjuster just doesn't reach far enough. Also, what is your oiling recommendations? Could I get away with 8000 across the board after a clean if I plan on returning to the watch in a year or so. Probably once I've invested in nicer synthetic oils.
  12. That could be it. There's someone parting out one of these movements on eBay, it may be worth the 40 dollars to buy a good one. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  13. Hi all, Its been a month or so since I posted. I've been tuning my skills on nicer and nicer russian movements. After servicing a tiny womens swiss movement, I think I'm ready to approach something a little nicer. I've had a 70's Tissot seamaster lying around for a while, the minute hand would often stop advancing until manual intervention. I brought it to a watchmaker for an estimate and he said the cannon pinion was bad but the cost of service was a student loan payment so I took it home to think about it. When he reassembled it, he got the keyless works wrong, so I pulled it apart to sort out and they're very tricky but I don't think anything is broken. First actual question: When I had the dial off playing with the keyless works, the cannon pinion looked fine, no missing leaves. Could something less visually obvious be wrong with it that would still require replacement? Second, since this is a nice movement and not a Russian workhorse, I don't want to use a single general purpose oil on the whole thing, but I cant seem to find information on what weights for what parts I should use. This caliber seems to be shortly lived and somewhat obscure.
  14. I know a few revisions of this movement has a jewel housing that can easily be removed. This particular one looks like it's pressed in rather than held with screws. Another feature is that there's a raised part on other movements that have the removable housing, Including the one on this teardown: https://forums.watchuseek.com/f54/vostok-2416b-service-notes-240805.html I feel like there might be a balance wheel made for this model, and the amount of endshake is due to a wrong combination of wheel and jewel housing, but I have a feeling it shouldn't matter. I wish It was easier to find some revision information because I don't understand why this is the only 24xx movement I've seen that doesn't have those screws holding the jewel housing. Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
  15. So, With the fork removed, I noticed the balance wheel will move dial up, but not dial down. There seems to be miles of end shake on the balance wheel. I replaced the lower balance jewel with the same behavior. I pulled a shim from another movement, with little change There's just so much end shake, I don't know where the space could come from. The pivots look fine on inspection. I might try a different jewel.
×
×
  • Create New...