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Whatever size bench you have it will never be big enough. Your posture is something you need to sort out, as damage can be caused to your spine and neck and eyesight. Height is very important. A comfortable seat, one that can be adjusted is best. Plenty of good draw space and you need hands on for tools. I see both benches have green as the covering and edges. The covering doesn’t go right to the edge that is poor, parts can be trapped and on that colour wood hard to see. Many on here buy old benches and do them up. There are photos of member’s work places on here in a thread. You could do a search. Don’t rush into the first thing you see. Planning your bench for you to work at is very important, after all you are going to spend a lot of time there.

The numbers displayed are averages (I think) so those gaps are actual readings of an intermittent beat error. If they happen at regular intervals, you might look at the escape wheel for dirt or a hair.

Porte and Markle pocket watches are from Winnipeg Canada. The numbers under the dial on the plate are the cal numbers.

.. and a claw hammer. But only after you have tried everything else.

Have you got a very short sample time set on the timegrapher? Setting a longer sample period, say 20 or 30 secs may give a continuous trace. Just a thought.

I don,t lubricate fork pivots. Most important are escape teeth-pallet interface, tremendous friction there. I will be getting the recommended mobeous 941 or 9415 and expect reporting good results. See the difference pallet lube makes for yourself, observe amplitude before and after pallet lube.

And that’s why I know have two additional watches coming in the post . There are worse hobbies

When I look to the hands by loupe I can see that all hands was repaint in the past so it's hard to say what original color should be. I think I will choose orange one like often seems in Citizen watches and the case will be satined. So stay tuned

Aspects are more reminiscent of Omegas ... ref for instance http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_12_sav (movement side) and http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_17LIBN (dial side). Also note for the latter that the same Swiss patent number 26513 is found on your movement If you can measure your movement to get a ligne size maybe the above (if it proves relevant!) may help narrow things down.

Its a 1970s Poljot 2906H based Soviet era TV face for me today, on an authentic Poljot steel bracelet.

If I had a penny for every tiny component I have pinged into some parallel dimension, I'd probably have an 18 liter bucket of pennies. They usually turn up again, after a long search, or more likely, when you go looking for the next thing you loose.

I am not the picky . A nice vintage Omega for Christmas is okay . No we are happy we can help . Have done that to . It's always a PIA to put that set lever screw back when you have forget to put it in . And you see it when the whole movement is built up and ready to go in the case.

Today is my vintage 1950s Gallet Multichron 45 fitted on a vintage 50s Gemex rice bead stainless bracelet.

Hi david, I bet your crystal lift( squeeze claws) is chinees or cheep chinees, you don,t stand a chance with those. I am pretty sure you find it is not you but the lift, a bergeon lift will put an end to this pain. Best wishes joe

The crystal doesn't look to bad. But if you want to change it anyway i think there is a sternkreuz alternative to it? XAC 311.523 i think would work.

Hi, my name is Rob and live in New York State's Catskill Mountains (USA). I've been a watch and clock maker for several years. I'm very good with clocks but not so good with watches.... yet with Marks help I hope to be. I just finished part 1 of Mark's course. It was a lot of fun, Mark has made me a better watch maker already! I like the way he broke down the watch parts for each section of the watch. I've been gathering tools for a long time and will make some as I need them if they are too expensive to purchase. Last winter I bought an old watch bench because I really need one and the ones I liked were very pricey, I'm a woodworker and also a machinist. I'm retired now, I'm an electronics engineer and still write for a few publications and do electronics but watch work is still a very favorite hobby. Here's are the before and after pictures ( A lot of sanding!!). I made a new top as the old one was full of holes and refaced the draws. I also put in a new canvas catch that already saved me from crawling along the floor for lost parts. Rob

I'm curious as to what you see on the timegrapher trace to indicate loose pallet stones. The parameters look pretty good to me and the trace is pretty solid. Not trying to be critical, but curious. I work primarily on vintage movements and a trace like that would be almost orgasmic for me. Thanks, RMD

A Finn gave me the recipe the Finnish watchmaking school uses for clocks. It works well and is quite gentle. For anyone interested it's: 1 liter 99% iso alcohol 3 liters distilled water 60g oleic acid 50g oxalic acid Everything heated in a stainless pot until quite warm, then ammonia, mixed in last, adding until the solution turns clear (about 80g of 25% ammonia) The ammonia and oleic acid form a soap, and the ammonia is sort of neutralized so it doesn't eat into brass parts. The oxalic acid is a gentle rust remover.