Leaderboard

I have a link below to the website talking about lubrication of Rolex. Then I'm attaching a file that also talks about lubrication. So if it was a real Rolex you're supposed to use something called MR-1 that were never going to see in the real world. If you look at both references the mainspring itself is considered prelubricated only the barrel wall is lubricated with this strange substance. I think if you do a search we've discussed barrel wall lubrication somewhere else in the message board. Another recommendation Is Kluber P125. But if you use this yet be really careful a is just a real tiny bit because it is super sticky http://www.horologist.com/rolex_lubrication.htm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KNTrHVD088 https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/kluber-chronogrease-p125 Rolex-3135-tech.pdf

I just used a sharp pen knife. I also used cocktail sticks.

Wait, that's after 24 hours of running without winding, or after 24 hours, then wound up again? I would not expect the amplitude to be that high after 24 hours. As for the rate, in my experience that can shift easily as much as you have seen after a service. I usually let a watch run for at least a couple of days before doing final timing. Some calibers are worse than others!

Congrats on those great results! However, I'm afraid I have no idea why you get the different rate 24h later. After a service, and if possible, I always try to wear the watch for a couple of days or so before I try to regulate it. I believe the lubrication of the watch needs to be somewhat evenly distributed before regulating. I saw an enlightening article about it here.

Better than foil shims or (heaven forbid) gouges on the mainplate! Anilv

Thank you, so all those hours on the available videos were worth something. Have a good remainder of the day and an amazing weekend! Benny

I have installed and completed a custom project watch using an Asian Clone 2824-2 movement. Dial is seated, hands set, timing within +4sec a day face up - fine. On my first test, the date flips at midnight - good job, the hands have been set to align to midnight when the date changes. I give the watch a healthy hand wind and we're off to the races. Each morning, I confirm the time keeping and date. Each morning everything looks good. Until morning 8. That's when I notice the date hasn't changed but the time is correct. I decide to manually change the date by setting the hands, it's changes at 8:00a. Strange. I do this again. This time it changes at 9:00a. Then 10:00a. And so on. So, the movement is keeping good time. Which to me suggests the hands aren't dragging, right? Because the time would be one hour off. So I'm at a loss here. What could be the issue causing a consistently changing date flip, 1 hour later every day? Thank for your help!

I use a cutter knife, the kind with replaceable blades that break off in like 10 little sections. Facets are good!- they help clean. If you're doing jewel holes you need to resharpen after each one, you'll get quick fast. I use a loupe. I also do a lot of small watches with 0.07mm jewel holes...

A sunny window close by or any heat source can cause slight variations in viscosity of the oils. Looks good to me, so regulate and job-done.

Rolex 1575 is an automatic. It should not make a difference about how much power you have running through the movement. Did you use the correct oils, you might have used to much or to little. You need to let it settle down and then test, that will give a good average of the movements performance

Good thing we now have a full hour to correct our little mistakes! Whish we'd have a full day (or more) though! Imagine putting a watch together and only having an hour to correct any mistakes we'd made!

Please excuse my spelling error, luckily I was able to go back and correct it.

First measurement was made fully winded? Should wait one hour before regulation. And the final judgement is after one week on the wrist.

I don,t see how the movement is ruined that you say you did, anytime I see no obvious way to remove the stem, I think two piece stem. Never mind that, whoever is the winner can I have the chicken dinner?

Cheers all! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

beautiful job congratulations. I usually use glass paint, I suggest. this is my last example: ps: I got a scratched lathe with sandpaper. I filled the 12-way index with phosphor and threw lacquer on it. Before: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well here it is now. I repaired the movement new glass. This old watch has had a hard life and it shows. I still need to source a battery door gasket, crystal gasket (reused the old one for now) and correct silver chapter ring around day/date. I left the sweep a tad bent to remind me that all things are not perfect.

thank you for the advice, i changed over the date and then noticed that the screws were not the right ones, so replaced them and now all is good and going and keeping good time.

Further investigation on my part, tells me that the 713 movement was where the use of the KIF springs began. The above posters are correct in saying this is simply a retaining clip as I'm told by an Elgin expert that the 712 pivot assembly was not a true shock protection system as the jewel is fixed in the place and does not "float" as with the Incabloc and other similar systems. Thanks for all of your replies. Best, RMD