Leaderboard

Well the idea is that professionals buy these and use them everyday. Discussion below

Can you post a picture, always worth 1,000 words? Some of what you call dirt can be oxidation or top laquer corrosion, it has no remedy beside full reprint, otherwise you can minimize it working on other details and call it "vintage patina".

Here's a brand new one for starters which looks to be the same as yours (?) ... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIAL-TAG-HEUER-F1-HX0266/302649416687?hash=item46774f9bef:g:m1UAAOSwYNxagv4f . Someone else on this forum might have another source other than ebay. However at this price it's also worth looking out for (non-working) complete watches in good condition. Assuming this is the same as yours then this sold for £41 recently as an example of what can come up if you keep an eye out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ladies-TAG-HEUER-F1-200m-Watch-Spares-Or-Repairs-/293105389179 Perhaps one further suggestion is also to consider an alternative Heuer dial. Unless you're set on the pink there seem to be quite a lot of other Heuer dials available. Of course you'd have to double check diameter and dial feet positions but just an idea if all else fails! Good luck!

Hi Rexxus The parts you refer to are the center wheel and the canon pinion, One has to remove the canon pinion the remove the center wheel., To do this you will need a removal tool (available on EBAY) to remove the pinion and the center wheel will drop out. I have attached the TZ glossary so as you can identify the various parts by name. The same tool also is billed as a watch hand remover and provides a parallel upward pull so as not to bend the pinion or indeed watch hands, happy days TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

Nitpick: the chaton, or "jewel setting" is the metal part around the "holed jewel". You may "peg" the latter, not the first.

Perfect. You said it better than I. Good luck

Well, this months pick.

Thank you for explaining your method seems very logical (if I have understood correctly) and no need for tools. Also, I realised if a tool was required Rolex would've made one and referenced it here as they do elsewhere. So tighten the screw so there is barely any endshake (which might mean the balance not moving) then slacken off and check on the tinegrapher as JDM suggests for optimal position.

thank you for the advice, i changed over the date and then noticed that the screws were not the right ones, so replaced them and now all is good and going and keeping good time.

No idea. At first I thought of Miyota but it looks different after a closer look.

Very good work. Happy to see all the pics and your project.

A gold plated champagne dialed "Kudu" joins the club. This 17 jewel Swiss front loader needed a service, a crown and stem to get it running. It also benefited from a complete valet, and a crystal polishing session. Finding and fitting a suitable stem was the most tricky part, since the original had broken off right at the edge of the base plate, so extracting without stripping it down was a non starter, and finding something to match the broken stub in my "pile of random stems" took a fair bit of scratching around and experimenting. It looks a whole lot nicer in real life than it does in my rather badly lit photograph. The strap was borrowed from an HMT Kohinoor which is hopefully going to be the next patient up on the healing bench.

Unfortunately in the majority of cases the delicacy of a dial's makeup means cleaning is not possible without damage to the features. If you've managed to strip paint away back to bare brass with just water on your test area then yours is even more delicate than most and attempting further cleaning would just damage things even further. Your dial actually has quite a nice patina so advice would normally be to leave it as is and accept the more vintage look. There are professional dial reprinting companies as @jdm intimates but this is not a cheap option. Sometimes good condition or 'new old stock' dials come up on ebay or similar but if after a very specific dial this might be a long time coming. There is a third option perhaps given the design of your dial but it would be dependent on good competency with airbrushing. I could expand further on this but would only recommend it as a route if the 'just leave it as is' suggestion isn't welcome!

Not an easy one, this and its sister version 7548 was used on diver's, these are both actively sought as donors. You may have better luck looking for a Pulsar Y513. Just for reference attached the service guide. Good luck. Seiko 7546A - Technical Guide.pdf

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Hi francis, Welcome to WRT forum.

So it's time to take the watch into one piece. It seemed to be easy so I have started - hour hand, minute hand, zeroing chrono, minute recorder hand, hour recorder hand and the last sweep second chrono hand. I zeroed the chrono, attached position, pushed it down. I think great - it's done I started the chrono and after few seconds tried to zeroing. Pushed the reset button and .... what the heck? : -s Pusher was hard. I was affraid to broke any lever so decision could be only one - disassemble movement again: - | I took over chrono bridge and cleaned it with all reset chrono levers. Small amount of fresh oil and voila - works. : -! All that was left was to press bezel with crystal, put the new gold plated bracelet and have a enjoy of the watch. I know it's not pristine, have some drawbacks but I feel proud to back this one to life. I enjoyed some much during this project. I hope You too.There is still accurate tuning and amplitude measurement but it must wait until I buy a new microphone for timegrapher. I am sure I will inform You about the result. So stay tuned.

Looks like it's possible to do that on the timegrapher. Amplitude decrease = too little endshake. Large position variance or other irregularities = too much. The range is 1 cent. of mm and not directly or easily measurable.

Be sure that the date jumper sits between the date wheel teeth and the date wheel is flat before installing the date guard. You can check if it is with the guard installed. Also be sure that the day wheel spring (that is part of the date guard) is also between the teeth of the star behind the day wheel inspecting through the visors on the day wheel. Are you using the original day wheel for your watch? These wheels are different depending on the possition of the crown, you cannot use a day wheel made for a 3 o'clock crown watch on a watch with the crown at 4 o'clock, because the text won't align with the day window on the dial.

Here are a few more little Timex Group related facts. Shortly after purchasing the Waterbury Clock Company in 1941, founder Thomas Olsen renamed the company Timex, as a portmanteau of Time (referring to Time magazine) and Kleenex.[3] The Fred Olsen group is also one of the Scotland's large land owners, which makes them one of the handful of entities that "own" Scotland, as a result of its arcane and feudal land laws. More interesting history here -> http://www.andywightman.com/archives/category/who-owns-scotland Now I'm not suggesting we go quite as far as this guy, but... ... the current situation of "land management" (i.e. large slash and burn "grouse moors" and industrial scale toilet roll farming) is unsustainable in the long term. We do need a rethink.

Casio W800-H "Illuminator" rescued from the junk pile. This was so scratched up that I doubted I could get it half way readable. I guess that just goes to show, with enough grit and determination you can actually polish a turd. Enjoy the strap. I couldn't find anything less suitable, so I stuck it on this. I think it actually works, in a strange and faintly disturbing sort of a way.

check out a book or video on watch repair. it will help you a lot. vin